Hello
If the flow meter has 5 volts DC and you get erratic resistance when blowing through the tube the flow meter, the meter is operating normal and is not your issue. The flow meter resistance will change based on pressure. There are two other possibilities that will cause your FH error.
1) Remove the pressure hose WPW10004260 , inspect it carefully to make sur there is not a pin hole leak in it. We have found this to cause your FH error many times. You cannot phisically see it sometimes but if you have a pinhole leak the pressure switch will not operate.
2) Make sure you do not have flood safe water inlet hoses with check valves in them. These can cause FH error codes also.
Please let me know if either of these suggestions correct your issue.
Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
- last active 8 years ago
Todd
The gound wire on the derfrost timer will not have anything to do with yhe condensation or changing the timer intervals . The gound wire should be added as a safety procedure. If the timer is not wired correctly you will develop frost on the evaporator ONLY. The condensation on the refrigerator wall sounds like a door seal issue. Check both door seals especially on the bottom of both doors for a 100% seal, also make sure there is nothing blocking them from closing all the way. There is also a possibility of the custumer leaving the door adjar overnight causing this issue, especially with small children. Matt Ace Technician
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
Hello
See complete diagnostic guide links below. If you have power into the maim PCB and no power out or display you will have no choice but to put on a main pcb just to get a display to put into diagnostcs mode. Matt Ace technician
SERVICE INSPECTION MODE
Press the ‗Heavy‘ + ‗Delicate‘ + ‗Power‘ buttons at the same time for two seconds to enter Service Inspection Mode.
All LEDs are displayed for the first two seconds and then Software-Ver. It will be indicated Binary Code using ‗Wash +
Dry + Clean + Child Lock‘ LED.
You can change the mode by pressing the Normal button once more. If press the Normal button in any mode, mode will
be changed to next mode.
If ‗Heavy + Quick‘ LED, ‗Heavy‘ LED or ‗Heavy + Delicate + Quick‘ LED error occur, enter the Service Inspection Mode
after resolving problem.
Service Inspection Mode is described in the table. When you activate this inspection mode, the door must be closed.
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
Hello
See link below for technician diagnostic sheet. See complete test procedure for the evaporator fan motor. Very unlikely to have a bad wire in the wall. Are you sure your meter is calibrated properly? Run the evaporator fan motor diagnostics with the instructions below. Matt Ace technician
Service Test Mode:
The service test functions are performed using the Refrigerator Temperature Display and Keypad. Enter the
Service Test Mode by performing the following sequence of events:
1. Hold the refrigerator door light switch closed.
2. Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ keypad 3 times consecutively.
Note: The 3 keystrokes must be done consecutively and within 10 seconds.
3. Release the refrigerator door light switch.
4. The control will display S – E to confirm entry into the service mode.
5. Entry to the Service Menu is confirmed by pressing the Refrigerator UP /+ key once more.
6. The control will display its software version for 3 seconds.
7. Following the software revision display the freezer display will read the first test number in the diagnostic tree.
The refrigerator display will be blank.
Note: All control functions will be turned off (Compressor, Defrost, Evaporator Fan, the damper will remain in its
current position).
8. You are now in the SERVICES TEST operational mode and may use the diagnostic tests.
The Service Test Mode can be exited at any time by closing the Refrigerator Door(s).
The Freezer Temperature UP /+ DOWN /- keys allow selection of the test to be performed
EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR TEST :
Service Test 3 – Evaporator/Freezer Fan Test
When selected and activated this test will operate the freezer fan. The Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ key will
toggle between O / F (ON & OFF) the fan drive circuit. You will have to inspect the fan for proper function. The
test must be “deactivated” or in the OFF position to move to another test selection. Observe Fan Operation,
Freezer displays 3 – Refrigerator displays O or F.
Evaporator fan motor specifications
Clockwise 2800 RPM
3.7 or 6.0±15% watts@115
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
Hello
The C:00 is a control action for the door lock system.
FLOW METER TEST ****
To test the flow meter disconnect the wires from it and remove the hoses so you can blow through it. Touch the terminals with an ohm meter. When you blow through it, the resistance should change. If not, it has failed.
The FH error
Possible Causes / Procedure
If there is no water in the unit:
– Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.
– Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves.
– Verify inlet valve operation.
• If there is water in the unit:
– Verify drain pump operation.
– Verify that the pressure switch hose is in good condition and properly connected to tub
and pressure switch.
1. Verify there is not a siphon problem.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Verify wire harness connections to inlet valves, pressure switch, drain pump, flow meter,
and Central Control Unit (CCU).
4. Check all hoses for possible leaks.
5. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
6. Verify pressure switch operation.
7. Verify flow meter operation by blowing air through the part and measuring the resistance.
8. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic test or any cycle.
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
Hello
See the link below to your Viking range fault codes . I would wait to catch it in the act before replaceing any parts. Also ask the custumer to look for fault cades when this happens again. it sounds like the DSI spark module is failing. Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
Hello
Can you please double check your model number and submit again . It is incorrect. could it be WDSR2080 ?
Thanks
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
- last active 8 years ago
Hello
See the link below for the technician diagnostic information you requested. It has 119 pages so it is a very lage manual with detailed diagnostics. Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
There are two servive bullitin links below with your symptoms. I also have provided the
ICEMAKER OPEARTING AND TROUBLE SHOOTING METHOD on page 74-77. Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
Hello
Have you seen any error codes come up after diagnostic mode ? Do you have a digital tempearture meter with a probe to check the temperature in each setting ? Have you checked the thermistor resistance ? Have you run the dryer with the vent off to see if it operated properely ? If it is a long vent with more than 3- 90 degree elbows it can cause this issue. Have you verifyied it has the most current software version ? See complete diagnostic link below for more detailed testing and two service bullitins.
Software Version Test Mode
How to Enter:
Press Temp + Mixed Load Bell Keys for 3 sec during
Power On State.
Press Temp key for 3 seconds (until beep)
Note: Test mode subject to change without notice
Testing Electric Heater circuit.
Disconnect White wire from RY6, turn power on, start dryer read voltage between RY6 Blue wire and CN6 Green wire.
Disconnect Orange wire from RY7, turn power on, start dryer read voltage between RY6 Blue wire and CN6 Green wire.
Reading of 120VAC means a proper operating heater circuit. 0VAC means open in circuit.
One heater reading 0vac means that heater is open.
To test thermostat use ohm meter on lowest scale, any resistance replace component
See page 4 for Main PCB layout for testing.
CN6
Low Heat (Delicate/Gentle) ———— 125°F
Medium Heat Permanent Press)——-135°F
High (Normal/Cottons)————- 140°F
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
Hello
Is your compressor running ? If its not running go to page #49 in the diagnotic link below. Open PCB cover and check for blinking frequency of LED, PCB. If compressor is normal, it does not blink : Refer to page #50 to find out what actions to take according to how many times LED blink. If the compressor is running go to page #21 to start troubleshooting process. Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
Hello Pedrez
If your thermal fuse keeps blowing the first place you start is the dryer vent, make sure you have good air movement and velocity. See information links below for technical diagnostics mode and service information english & Español Archivos bottom half of page . Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
- last active 8 years ago
Hello
Hello on a no cool symptom only in the refrigerator section there are a few things to check.
1) Make sure both doors are closing properly and the door seals are magneticly sealing 100% around both doors.
2) 1.Verify the evaporator fan is moving air (Note: the fans do not run with the doors open)
3) Verify the fridge Thermistor is reading between 2.4 and 2.8 volts DC at the main PCB.
4) Check the wiring harness for poor connections.
5) Access Forced Operation Mode and turn on the defrost heater. You should hear the relay(s) click when activated. Verify the 12v supply to the relays and the defrost heater(s).
6) Verify the continuity of the bimetal and/or thermal fuse in the defrost circuit.
7) Verify the Compressor Fan is dissipating heat properly.
8) Check the operation of the defrost circuit, especially the defrost sensors and bimetal elements. Verify the defrost heater is not turning off to early.
9) Check the freezer defrost sensor feedback line by measuring the voltage level at the Main PC Board (normal 6-9Vdc).
Run throgh test mode
If Power Freeze Key + Fridge Key on the front of panel are pressed simultaneously for 8 seconds, the test
mode will be activated and all displays on the front of panel will be off.
*** If any key on the front panel is pressed within 15 seconds after changing to Test Mode, it will be operate as in
the sequence below ; Manual operation (FF) → Manual defrost of R (rd) → Manual defrost of F/R (Fd) →
Cancel (Display all off).
**** If any key on the front of panel is not pressed within 15 seconds after the Test Mode, the Test Mode will be
canceled and it will be returned to previous mode.
If the test mode is canceled, power off and reactivate the refrigerator.
Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
Hello
You have a few different possibilities that will cause the drian to plug up.
1) Make sure the fridge is level, it needs to be level back to front and side to side.
2) Check the back of the compartment for plastic bags or similar objects that might be blocking the drain.
3) Refrigerator sensor if weak can cause this issue Parts #: DA61-03683A. See video link below.
4) The refrigerator defrost bi-metal thermostat Part #: DA47-00243C could be opening to soon and shutting off the defrot heater to soon. Then the drian will ice over causing your issue.
5) If you have a weak spot in the refrigerator defrost heater Part #: DA47-00424B it can cause the drian to ice over. So you need force the heater into defrost and make sure it is heating on 100% of the element. The heaters can still have amprege and only heat on 30-40-50 % of the coil causing this issuse. You can visually inspect the heater to see a strong red glow all the way accross the heater. See complete diagnostic manuals below. Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
- last active 8 years ago
Hello
On a no cool symptom only in the refrigerator section there are a few things to check.
1) Make sure both doors are closing properly and the door seals are magneticly sealing 100% around both doors.
2) 1.Verify the evaporator fan is moving air (Note: the fans do not run with the doors open)
3) Verify the fridge Thermistor is reading between 2.4 and 2.8 volts DC at the main PCB.
4) Check the wiring harness for poor connections.
5) Access Forced Operation Mode and turn on the defrost heater. You should hear the relay(s) click when activated. Verify the 12v supply to the relays and the defrost heater(s).
6) Verify the continuity of the bimetal and/or thermal fuse in the defrost circuit.
7) Verify the Compressor Fan is dissipating heat properly.
8) Check the operation of the defrost circuit, especially the defrost sensors and bimetal elements. Verify the defrost heater is not turning off to early.
9) Check the freezer defrost sensor feedback line by measuring the voltage level at the Main PC Board (normal 3.6- 3.9Vdc).
See complete diagnostic manual link below. Go to page #265 for further diagnostics. Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
Hello
See all technical diagnostics links below along with all service bullitins links below. If the custumer replaced the main conrol panel , did he replaced the membrane switch overlay ? That could cause your issue see link below. Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
Hello
See complete information links below we have on this model. There are no service bullitens related to your issue on this model. You need to get the unit into the diagnostic mode, if you cannot get it into the diagnostic mode and you did the software update you have to start with the display board. Matt Ace technician
Entering Service Diagnostics
Enter Service mode by pressing the “Water”, “Crushed”, and “Cubed” buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds.
The display will show 00 in the FZ temperature display and 00 in the FF temperature display. All the components will tirn off, the 3- wat valve will go in home position. and the temperature display shows 00 in each of the FZ and FF displays. LCD Display: Use the up and down buttons on the left to increment
increment the 1’s place to select the desired test. Press any key other than the temp adjust keys to run test.
The test mode must be selected within 5 minutes of entering the diagnostic mode or it will time-out, normal refrigerator operation will resume. Once a test mode is selected, the display will show the results of the mode selected. Run test 0016 to exit diagnostics and return to normal operation.
The control will reset to normal operation if power is cycled.
Non-dispenser needs service kit.
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
Hello
See links below for diagnistics & troublshooting information. Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
- last active 8 years ago
Hello
The first thing to check is 120Vac from your power outlet. Also make sure you have proper polarity and good ground with the Advanced GFCI Outlet Tester Power Socket Automatic Electric Circuit Polarity Voltage Detector . See link below. If that checks out you must check for voltage at the refrigerator terminal inlet to verify you have no power cord issues. If you are still not getting any display to put unit into the diagnostic mode and you have voltage up to the display you must check for power in and out of the main PBA. If power in and no power out replace main PBA. Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
- last active 8 years ago
Hello
See the video links below. If you are sure the water pressure from the water saddle valve through the water inlet is at full capacity . I would look next at the filter head assembly, the filter head can have a defective diaphragm preventing full water pressure from coming throuh it. See the video link below on the filter head assembly to check water pressure up to the filter head and then throgh it. We have had to replace two of these so far. Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 8 years ago
- last active 8 years ago