All Answers

Hello
See the troubleshooting guide in the link below. Go to page #31 and follow the troubleshooting steps. No gas flow to the burner 4A. Defective igniter 4 A. Check the igniter current draw. If less
igniter glows red. than 3.2 amps, replace the igniter. a) Intermittent burner flame 4B. Gas pressure too low 4 B. Check for correct gas pressure, Nat. gas b) lighting only one side of pressure should be 5” WCP and LP
burner. c) gas odors should be 10” WCP. d) lowering average temp.
of oven.

Also see similar model video links below . Matt Ace technician

Hello
See the technician diagnostic link below . It has all of the diagnostic tests and error codes with descriptions. I am not sure what code you are getting. The most common issues for unbalanced load is 1) Customer overload . 2) Shocks going bad . Matt Ace technician

Hello
Look at Job Aid page 3-5 and 4-2 through 4-13 for diagram. Matt Ace technician

HI. I have attached the service manual on this unit for you. I hope it is helpful for your repair! Good luck.

Hello
Can you please double check your model number. It is incorrect. Also please add in the manufacturer , just put in the first two letters of the manufacture ( WH ) Whirlpool and it will auto populate. Matt Ace technician

Hello
The error code ( 03 ) is a wash pump error dead motor. See section 3-10 in the service manual link below. Matt Ace technician

Hello
See technician diagnostics sheet link below. The fist place to start is the heater after diagnostics. You can also try a rinse aid like( jet- dry) if no other problems can be found and the heater is good. Matt Ace technician

Hello
This is a basic unit. Do you have an even frost pattern across the evaporator coil. If your condenser is not moving any heat that is a strong indication of of a starved evaporator coil or an inefficient compressor. You either have a leak in the system or a weak suction valve in the compressor. You will need to tap the system on the low side suction line using an A-1 valve see link https://saezdistributors.com/line-tap-valve-lt5g-watsco/ . If its in a restriction you have a leak. If it has high suction pressure over 7-lbs or higher you have a defective compressor. Either scenario its very expensive to to the repair, in most cases not cost effective. Matt Ace technician

Hello
have you run the unit through diagnostics ? Run the unit through diagnostics and see if there are any stored error codes. see compete troubleshooting guide links below. Matt Ace technician

To Enter Diagnostics Mode:
Before proceeding with any corrective action, perform the
following steps to enter the Diagnostics Mode.
1. Enter Diagnostics Mode by pressing
CANCEL>CANCEL>START.
2. If control does not enter Diagnostics, repeat Step 1.
3. From the Diagnostics Menu, it is possible to select one
of these options by pressing the left or right arrow key:
Error Codes: View the failure history
Relay Activation: Manually activate each relay
Model Select: Configure the product (combo)
Software Version: View the versions of software on
the product
Status Screen: View the traditional oven cavity
temperatures and door and latch switch status.

Hello
There are a few possibilities that would cause warm temperatures in the freezer that you already have not done.
1) Make sure the evaporator fan motor is running up to proper speed.
2) Maker sure the condenser fan motor is running.
3) Make sure the freezer light is shutting off when door is closed.
4) Make sure there is no frost or ice on the evaporator restricting air flow.
5) Make sure your evaporator has an even frost pattern and is not starved for refrigerant. You may have a small leak in the system . See complete manual links below. Matt Ace technician

Hi. Thats a strange one. You have replaced all the common parts that would be squeaking. I have replaced the idler pulleys on these units for noise issues. It could be a cabinet vibration or the element housing vibrating in the duct. Check at the back of the unit that something is not pushed up against it causing noise as well or if it has a water line for steam, check that to see if it is vibrating in the back. Possibly something in the blower wheel. Possibly the motor bearings making noise. Check to see if the drum is rubbing.

Hello
See the technician sheet below. Go to page #83 Service diagnostic mode. The dispenser assembly is on page #64. If you run the unit through diagnostics the ( Auto fill ) feature should have some type of error code. The dispenser assembly incorporates the user interface (UI) used for temperature control and features and houses the dispenser LED lights and ultrasonic sensors. Matt Ace technician

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See wiring diagram link for your model below. Matt Ace technician

Hello
Have you checked the ice room fan to make sure it is running ? Are you getting good ice maker box temperatures ? You could have a sealed system issue. See video links below. Matt Ace technician

Hello
See the diagnostic sheet link below. Matt Ace technician

Hello
A few possibilities: 1) You have a frozen drain drain assembly that has overflowed and has ice frozen to the inside of the door. 2) Ice maker leaked and freezing water on the floor frozen to the inside of the door. 3) Bottom 3 position hinge jammed . See page #18 on the service manual link below. I would shut the unit down for 12 hours to see if the door is frozen shut. Matt Ace technician

Hello
Have you checked your door switch as it wires in series with the board. If the door switch is good check to see if there is a inline fuse on the board. See complete diagnostics link below.

See additional training information links below go to page #18. Matt Ace technician

Hi. I found a close but not exact service manual for you. I did not notice a service mode in the service manual, but take a look at it. I hope it helps you.

Are the lights staying on when the doors are closed? Make sure your door switches are working to turn the lights off and make sure the doors are hitting the switches when closed to turn the lights off. The bulbs should all be 40 watt bulbs and not any higher. IF the inside of the light sockets are burnt up enough they will usually cause a poor connection and arc casing the bulb to not work or go on and off. The sockets should be changed if this is the cause but this would not cause the bulb to stay on unless there is a short somewhere. I would think board last, because the switches should still cut power to the bulbs if the relay is sticking. I have attached the tech sheet for you. With this you could check your relay if needed as well as other components.