All Answers

Hi. Make sure your incoming power and connection at the outlet is good and not causing your power to cut in and out. Unplug for 15 mins to reset and see if that fixes the issue. If still having an issue you could have a short in the wiring or a loose connection somewhere. IF not you main control board is most likely faulty. p# 5303918558. attached is a link to the part. Where is the water line freezing at? In the door or in the refrigerator section?Are temperatures in the refrigerator too cold causing the water reservoir to freeze? Attached is the tech sheet on this unit as well.

Hi. I show the main control as p# 8546219. IS this the board you installed? If so, and you have correct power to the main board and still no display it must be a faulty console/ U.I p # 8558758. Make sure you have 120v from hot to neutral and from hot to ground and 0 between neutral and ground. Check voltage at the board with the harness plugged in to make sure the voltage is not dropping out. I believe I found the tech sheet on this unit for you, or one very similar. It might have some voltage information to help you diagnose the correct part.

Hi. You can not change the settings on the User interface on the refrigerator door? None of the buttons are working? If that is the issue you may have a bad user interface assembly. p# DA97-08518D. Link attached. I have seen this part go bad, but not for this issue. Usually the paddles for water and ice go bad to where when you try to get ice it will only give water or vise versa. It’s on common issue with this part. The control board could also be bad, not sending correct voltage to U.I. If the U.I is still lit up and just not accepting button selections I would lean more towards the U.I being bad. IF you have not already, try to reset the unit by unplugging for 15 mins and plugging back in. IT could just be glitched up.

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I have sent you over a service guide link below. Remove the cover over the control board on the back of the refrigerator, check the wiring on control board connections of the main control board. Unplug all connections and plug them in again to make sure they are secure, inspect for any corrosion or bent terminals. Then check the wire harness connection under the hinge cover on the top of the left hand refrigerator door. If these connections are okay, then you will need access the wire harness connection in the dispenser. If you can find and correct a wire harness connections problem, this may fix your refrigerator problem. Run the init through a diagnostic mode check after completion. Matt Ace technician.

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See diagnostic guide links below. Also see the three service bulletins related to frost build up in freezer issues. Matt Ace technician

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There is a release tab on the lower left side of the ice maker and two side mounting screws. See videos below and technician sheets. Matt Ace technician

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Can you provide the brand of the refrigerator and the correct model number. For the brand just add the first two letters and it will auto populate ( WH ) Whirlpool. Thanks

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See all links below for technician links and videos. Matt Ace technician

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The LE fault code on the LG dishwasher indicates issues with the pump motor and water circulation of the dishwasher. If a LE error code appears, troubleshoot and rectify the issue that is causing the error. Many times its a plugged or restricted pump assembly with food or other foreign objects. Turn off the dishwasher and let it cool for about 30 minutes. Restart the cycle.

Hi. I have attached links to the ADC board and the tech sheet on this unit. Basically I would diagnose the ADC board by process of elimination. There are only 3 parts to the defrost system. You have test 2 of those parts to be good( heater and defrost t-stat). There is only one part left that would cause the unit to not defrost, The ADC board. Some units have a fourth part to defrost. A defrost evap sensor. I do not believe your unit has one. As explained in the tech sheet, to force a defrost: Turn cold control on and off 3 times within 6 seconds. Usually when you force a defrost the defrost system will come on and work still even though the ADC is faulty. So, if you force the defrost and it does start to defrost you know all of your wiring and defrost parts are good. The ADC is faulty because it is not going into defrost during normal operation as it should.

Hi. I have attached the service manual on a similar unit for you. I do not see that error code listed. Please check the error code and compare to the ones listed in the tech sheet. The 1 could be an “I” and the 5 could be an “s”. IF the fans are running and the compressor you may have a sealed system issue. Either a leak in the system or a faulty compressor. You will need to check your frost pattern on the evaporator.

Hi. How is the door strike? It could be damaged, not fully engaging into the door latch. Its p# 131763302 . Attached is a link with a picture of this part. I have attached the tech sheet for you on this unit. Checked for stored error codes. What error codes are stored? Also, run the diagnostic cycle to see what happens.

Hi. I have attached the service manual on this unit for you. I am not sure the sensor you are referring to. The service manual will show you how to test every part on the machine. You can run diagnostics as well. If you do not have power to the gas valve/ igniter and all of your fuses and sensors test good, you would have a bad control board.

HI. I have attached the tech sheet for you no this unit. I found no troubleshooting information available. It sounds like you have incorrect voltage coming into the or a short somewhere in the unit. check your incoming voltage. What board did you replace? Did the display light up with the new board? I show the main control board as p# WPW10135090. I would suspect this part to be the issue if you have proper power going into the board.

Hi. I have attached the service manual for you on this unit. Try and run the diagnostics and see what error codes are stored. Did you try to reset the unit?

Hi. The first thing I would check is air flow. Restricted airflow will cause longer dry times. Make sure the vent is clear, that the lint screen is not clogged, and the blower housing does not have lint build up. If airflow is good, you may have bad gas coils. When the coils wear out they will give heat for a portion of the cycle and then give no heat until they cool back down. You might be able to see them fail. If the igniter comes on and then turns off without a flame the coils are bad. Have the customer start the dryer up 30 mins or so before you get there so those coils have enough time to fail before you get there. Attached are some gas coil videos.

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See information link below with service manual on how to get to fresh food evaporator. Matt Ace technician

Hi. I have attached the Service manual on this unit for you. It sounds like your fan is not running or hitting ice when it runs. You could have frost build up from a defrost issue or a bad fan motor. Did you take the evaporator cover off to see what was going on? Was the fan running? Did the evaporator have an even frost pattern?

Hi. I attached a link to the parts break down of your unit. Sounds like the part you are referring to is the bell and seal kit. I have attached a link to that part for you. I could not find any videos on this repair. This could be causing your noise. Check your belt and idler pulley as well.

Hi. Please provide the modle number of the unit and I can provide a tech sheet and information for it. I have never ran into this issue with this unit. .These units in general spin a lot faster than most other top loads. Check for any stored error codes. The speed of the unit would be controlled by the RPS sensor and control board. What cycle is the cust using and what speed speed does that cycle have? Different cycles have different spin speeds, but you can adjust the spin speed lower on all cycles. I think you are going to find nothing wrong with this unit.