All Answers

Hi. Sounds like you may have an issue with the control board. p# 440671. Make sure the heat circuit is not faulty. If a part in the heat circuit is bad it can cause the unit to run a very long time. Also, check the Turbidity sensor as well. I have attached a video for you. This can cause the unit to run longer than normal. With this running over night it does not sound like a heat or sensor issue. If the unit is getting near the end of the cycle and just stays there and runs, it there could be a leak. Is the unit continuing to drain when it will not shut off? If so check for a leak. There should be a leak sensor in the base of the unit that will recognize water leaks. Run the diagnostic mode and see what kind of error codes you have. This will be key to finding out what is going on. I could not locate the tech sheet on this one with it being a Kenmore built by Bosch. I attached a tech sheet for a different, earlier model. Also, attached are a lot of our Bosch dishwasher videos.

Hello, to diagnose your issue you will need to run the unit through the diagnostic mode. It is only way to get the error code to find out what your problem is. See below steps to run through diagnostic.

1. To invoke the Diagnostics Cycle, perform the following while in standby:
   ■ Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses.
   ■ The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed.
   ■ To rapid advance 1 interval at a time, press the Start/Resume key.
   Rapid advance may skip sensor checks as some checks require
   2 complete intervals.

NOTE: While you are in the Diagnostic Cycle, the Start/Resume feature is turned off (for example, Auto Resume after door interrupts) and the Start/Resume key becomes an individual advance key.
■ Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status and last run information from memory and restores defaults. It also forces the next cycle to be a sensor calibration cycle.
■ Drain and wash motors will pulsate on and off.
■ Last Ran cycles and options returned to default.
■ Last Ran Delay returns to the lowest delay increment.
■ Calibration cycle may force an extra rinse to occur prior to final rinse (to assure clear water), then calibrates the OWI and the fill amount during the final rinse.
■ Operating state returns to Standby upon completing or terminating the Service Diagnostics cycle

1. Turn on all LEDs immediately upon receiving entry sequence (even if door is open) for 5 seconds as a display test. Turn off all LEDs for 1 second prior to reporting customer error history.

2. Press Hi Temp key in this interval to clear customer error history.

3. Thermistor (temperature sensor) checks:
   ■ Turn Clean LED on if thermistor is in its normal temperature range of 32°F–167°F (0°C–75°C).
   ■ Turn Sanitized LED on if Fill temperature is above 85°F (29°C).

4. O.W.I. (Optical Soil Sensor) Checks:
   ■ Check OWI sensor for the presence of water during the 5-second pause in interval 16 and turn on the clean LED in interval 15 if water is detected.
   ■ Check OWI sensor for the presence of bulk soil during pause in interval 13 and turn on the clean LED in interval 12 if bulk soil is detected.
   ■ Drain until OWI sensor sees the presence of air or a maximum of 1:52 during interval 5 and turn on the clean LED in interval 4 if air is detected.

5. Turn on Clean LED in this interval if dispenser current is detected in previous interval.

Hello
You will need top go to page #2 in the (Technical data and wiring diagram ) link below and run the unit through the diagnostic mode. Matt Ace technician

Hello
Go to page #2 on the technician diagnostic link below, run it through diagnostics for error codes. It sounds like a weak igniter but verify with the diagnostics. If the igniter is weak it will cause this exact symptom. Also see the job Aid and video links. Matt Ace technician

Hello
See link below with technician sheet and diagnostics. Matt Ace technician

Hello
Appliance service warranties are only benefiting the company that sells them. This is a big business and it is a numbers game for service contract companies. They make big bucks and provide poor service. The average kitchen appliance nationally will break down ever 3.8 years and the average home owners warranty cost is $243.00 annually with a $100.00 / $50.00 per occurrence deductible. That comes out to $1023.40 per repair and the homeowner has to wait 1-3 weeks to get the repair done in most cases. The average appliance company can complete the repair for $196.00 with parts, labor & Tax. Then the customer gets same day or next day service from a reputable company of their choice. All of the warranty company’s including the utilities like the gas & electric company, sub contract appliance repair company’s to to their work. They pay the appliance repair company a fraction of the repair bill and beat them down on prices, so bad the get the bottom of the barrel contractors to do their work. So you can do the math $1023.40 for an average repair to get POOR service, or pay $196.00 for your repair on average and save $827.00 over 3.8 years . Then you can choose the company of your choose that has a good reputation in the industry. We get calls weekly on customers that have had service contracts for years and NEVER used it, then when they called for service they were told it would take 9 days for a no cool refrigerator. So they call us and we get out the same day and the customer gets NO REIMBURSEMENT from the contract company. Only their providers can service the products. We will not become a provider and discount our service rates by 50% or more. They call us every few weeks trying to convince us to become one of their contractors, no thanks. I hope this helps.

Hello
See Fisher & Paykel dryer belt replacement video.It is not the exact model, but it will give you a very good idea on how your belt is installed. Matt Ace technician

Hi. It sounds like you are not getting proper voltage. Not getting 240 volts to the unit. Check for proper power at the terminal block. Check for loose or damaged wiring. I do not see any thermal cutoffs or fuses on this unit.

Hello
See complete ice maker diagnostics in thew links below. Matt Ace technician

Hello Jim
I have sent you a diagnostic sheet. I would run the unit through the diagnostics first to verify its thre control and also see if there are any stored error codes. Matt Ace technician

Hi. Sounds like the lid switch may be the issue, even though it works for agitation. It is a more complex lid switch than most. Also, there is a fuse in the lid switch. I have attached a link to the part so you can take a look at it. WIth the timer being new and no power to the motor, I would suspect lid switch or wiring issue. There is also another fuse in the front on one of the sides near the pressure switch once you take the front panel off. I would check that as well. DOes the unit fill properly and stop filling at the proper levels? IF not check the pressure switch as well.

Hello
Go to page #8 on door parts breakdown. It will show you all parts that need to be removed. Also see video link on microwave door handle replacement.

Hello
See the diagnostic chart and service bulletin links below. Run the unit through the diagnostics. Matt Ace technician

Hello

This #12729128 defrost heater is located under the evaporator. Look at parts diagram link below on page #12. Matt Ace technician

Hello
If the evaporator fan motor stops you will get frost on the suction line. I have provided a complete technician diagnostic chart below to test every component including the diverter valve. This sounds like a sealed system issue have you looked at the freezer evaporator yet ? Look at the service bulletin link below also. Matt Ace technician

Hello
See the technician sheet link below. Are you sure its the door ajar alarm that is lit and not the temperature alarm ? Also have you checked the 115 volt outlet for proper polarity and ground ? That can create alarms if not correct. I would also look at the door switch for the light to make sure the light is not staying on. Are you getting good temperatures of -5 degrees to +5 degrees ? Can Ice cream stay solid ? If all of these have checked out , make sure you do not have a shorted defrost heater or defrost thermostat. This has a cal rod heater that can short out at the rubber coating and cause board issues # 5304496284 . Matt Ace technician

This may not be your issue but if you are testing on auto dry it will quickly shut down without moisture. Try a timed dry setting and see if the symptoms remain the same.