All Answers

See a link for 18 videos on this LG sidekick washer. https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/lg-wd200cw-sidekick-pedestal-washer/ Matt Ace Technician

I would start with the link below. It will give you the diagnostics and 18 other repair video’s on this unit.

Hello
I have provided a link to the 200 series pedestal washer. It is almost identical to the 100 series and you should be able to filter through the 18 videos we have made on the pedestal sidekick. Matt Ace technician

Hello
The defrost timer is in the main control board. See link below. Matt Ace technician

Hello, your next step would be to look in between the two tubs and look for something that would be jamming the tub.

Hello, f5e3 is a door lock error.

Unplug the washer. Lift the top panel of the washer to access the lid lock/switch assembly. Try to manually unlock the washer lid without breaking the lid lock/switch assembly and the lock strike. If the components are damaged, replace them. If the lid lock/switch assembly won’t lock and unlock properly, replace it.

Hello, what are your symptoms? do you hear the motor humm? does the drum turn freely? you may have somthing stuck in the blower wheel.

Hello, the suds error can be cause by a faulty pressure switch, but you also need to look at the drain pump and hose, if it takes too long it can think it is a pressure switch error when it is really the pump or blockage in the drain pump or drain hose.

Hello, if you only have a little frost pattern on the coils then you have a refrigerant leak. This repair requires you to hook up gauges on the sealed system and also to find the leak you may need a uv filter/dryer if not found visually. if you are not familiar with doing this type of work and are not EPA certified you need to hire someone who is.

Hello, If the evaporator was very iced up i would bet you need to clear out the return vents, they are located on the top back corners of the freezer section and go through the bottom corners inside the fridge under the crisper drawers. you can microwave some water and pour it down the vents to clear it or if you have a steamer that will do it as well. you need these clear for proper air flow. On the other question yes the thirmister controls the dampner. You will need to do a visual inspection to see if it is broken but odds are it is just the air return vents. check for air flow up top and if no air flow do the water/steam trick. then you should have air flow after that But if that does not work check the dampner.

Hello
I have provided a technician service sheet to run the unit through diagnostics to check your control board. Are you getting any error codes ? If not this sounds like a possible weak igniter. The system you are explaining can be caused by a igniter shutting off before the oven temperature reaches its set point. Then the gas valve will shut down of the igniter is not on. Matt Ace technician

Page 60-63 list the error codes and how to get into diagnostic mode. It also says that – WHEN ONE OR BOTH CRITICAL FAILURES OCCUR, THE WASHER IS DISABLED.IT IS NECESSARY TO ENTER SERVICE MODE TO REESTABLISH THE WASHER. It appears that your error code is listed on the critical error code table and is for a lid lock error. Each blinking light is for a different lid lock error. You could have a bad lid lock or control board. On page 47 it shows how to test you lid lock.

You should be able to press lighting and energy saver to cancel it. This is what the tech sheet says about it. Self Diagnosis: Press both buttons (Lighting— Energy Saver) simultaneously (No sound when both buttons are pressed at the same time) ’til the display quits blinking and beeps, 8-12 seconds, then release and read Fault Codes. This will also cancel the Fault Mode created by self-diagnosis at power up.

Hello
I have provided service bulletin links for your model. I examined the wiring diagram and the main control board handles powering the water inlet valve and powers the door dispenser. I thinks you received either defective boards or incorrect boards. I would reorder both and install again . We have run into new boards defective out of the box several times. I think they are sometimes parts distributes have used boards boxed up after someone else has tried it. Matt Ace technician

Frost/ condensation in the unit is a sign that warm air is entering the unit somehow. Check your door seal and ice chute door. Are you getting air flow through the vent to the refrigerator side? IS there frost on the evaporator cover? Frost on the cover and no air flow would indicate a defrost issue. You could have excessive frost build up on the evaporator blocking air flow from the warm air getting in.

Hi. Attached is the service manual for this unit. Yes, there is a fuse and a defrost sensor. The fuse can be checked for continuity. Open or closed. The defrost sensor can be checked for ohms. The manual has a temperature table that shows you how many ohms you should get depending on the temperature at the sensor. The last part in the system is the control board. Was the drain tube clogged? Clogged drain tubes will cause ice/frost build up on these units as well. Did you have ice or water on the freezer floor as well? This is a sign on a clogged drain.

Hi. Attached is the tech sheet for your unit. On page 15 it gives information on the F07 error. It is either the touch panel or control board causing this error. I though you have replaced the touch panel, which is p# WB36K10588. The control part number is WB27K10145. Which ever one you did not install is going to be the fix since you have already installed the other.

See link below for complete diagnostics sheet . Matt Ace technician

F8E0 Cooling Fan Speed Too Low
Fan speed below 500 rpm, either because the fan
is spinning too slowly or because there is a problem
with the Hall Effect sensor.
Within 20 seconds of
a fault condition when
cavity temperature is
above 170°F (77°C).
1. Unplug range or disconnect power.
2. Pull the range forward and remove the top access cover.
3. Verify there are no obstructions in the blower. If there is an
obstruction, remove it and go to Step 6. If no obstructions,
go to Step 4.
4. Disconnect control board connector P5 and check the fan
motor for 105Ω resistance between P5-1 and P6-3. If the
motor test is not good, replace motor and go to Step 6. If
motor tests good, go to Step 5.
5. Check the Hall Sensor by removing the control board P7
connector and testing for 5 VDC between P7-7 and P7-1.
If test is good, go to Step 6. If test results are not correct,
replace the Hall Sensor.
6. Replace all parts and panels before operating.
7. Plug in range or reconnect power.
8. Start a cook cycle and check for proper operation.
9. Enter the diagnostic mode to view the “Faults” screen. Press
START TIME or DELAY START to clear each Fault code(s).

F06

Hello, you will need to have some pliers on the back side of the motor shaft to help with removing the blot. they do break every now and again but you should not have much issue with it.