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Here is a video link for a similar model Samsung refrigerator https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/samsung-rf263teaesr-refrigerator/ . I have also provided below the diagnostic fast track tech. sheet for your model. We have the largest video network on the web currently and add between 60-70 new videos monthly. Even with over 5600 videos on our site we do not have all models , we are working to add more Samsung models. I hope this helps Matt Ace technician

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In reply to: MILNOR WASHER

Hi Todd,
I am not finding any look up on this unit for parts or service information. You say the unit is not draining the water out? This can cause your pressure switch water level error code. The washer is not recognizing a water level change so it will throw this error. Also, a clogged or damaged pressure hose will cause this error code and a faulty board or control as well. If the unit has water in the tub it is going to try to drain it at the beginning of any cycle. This could be why it will not start the cycle for 19 mins. I hope this helps. Let me know how it goes.

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Hi. Thank you for your question. I have attached the parts diagram for this unit. There is also another screw to remove on the bottom of the front of the filter housing.You may have to remove the filter first to see this screw. Look at #26 in the diagram. It sounds like this is what you removed the screw from. I think this is a cover. Take the cover off and then you will see more screws securing the filter housing to the wall. When you open the door for the filter housing I believe it releases the filter. You may have to pull out on the filer as you open the door if it seems stuck. Or on this one you may have to press the filter in to release it. I have attached a link for videos on replacing the filter. Once you have the filter housing off you will find the water lines on the back. To release the water line you will need to push the water line it then hold down the quick connect ring while pulling the line out. The new one will just push in and lock into place. Pull on it to make sure it will not come back out. I also attached some filter housing videos. They are not for your unit but they should still assist you.

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In reply to: spin but not darning

Hi. It sounds like you have a clogged drain pump or faulty drain pump. These would be the most common solutions for this issue. I have attached the tech sheet for you. You can check to see what error codes are stored in the system and go from there. Let me know what you find. I have also attached some drain pump videos.

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Here are some videos we have on Fisher Paykel washers.

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In reply to: Won't agitate

Hi. That is strange that the unit does not seem to be agitating and you are not getting an error code. Possibly the agitator is broken. Does the unit still drain and spin? Take a look a diagram #1 that I have attached a link for. If you removed number 17 on each side there will be screws underneath. Remove the screws and you can now lift up the top and see inside while the unit is running to check if if the washer is agitating. In diagram #2 that I attached you will see that agitator. Number 5 in the diagram is a plastic nut that you can remove. Then you can remove the agitator. Check the bottom of the agitator. There are plastic splines. See if these are damaged and not engaging the metal splines of the metal drive shaft. Number 23 in diagram #2 is the diverter valve. P# 426862P. Are you sure this is where that water is leaking from? Usually I find water leaking from the drain pump on these units. I have attached a link for the only videos I could find on this repair form a google search.

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In reply to: Not cooling

Hi. Is this unit not cooling at all for you? no producing any cold air? If this is the case and your compressor and fans are all running you must have a sealed system issue. You most likely have a leak in the system and all of your refrigerant has leaked out. It can be very hard to find and fix a leak and usually for a customer is not cost effective. This model actually had some problems with this exact model. What is the serial number? I have attached the document for you that has the information on this issue. Also, I have attached the Job Aid on this unit for you. IF your unit falls with in the serial numbers for this service pointer you will need to replace the fresh food evaporator, filter drier, and I recommend the compressor as well.

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Thank you for your question.This model washer does not actually have a transmission or standard motor.It has a drive tube and is operated by a magnetic stater and rotor.I am under the impression that your drain motor is the issue and is located and mounted underneath the outer tub of washer.There is no bottom on this machine so very carefully tip unit back (maybe with help)and you will most likely see that the drain pump has been leaking which caused winding to burn out.Replacement is relatively self explanatory and based on model number provided part number for drain pump is 420325p. I hope this information is useful and please respond back with and additional questions.

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Here is the tech sheet on your unit. It does not seem like there is a diagnostic mode. Only a forced defrost mode.

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Also, here is the tech sheet on your unit. You can run a service test and check for error codes. This will help you diagnose the unit.

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Thanks for your question, it is most likely a bad flame sensor. It is mounted on left side of the burner tube surrounding the igniter (part# 338906) and can be checked for continuity with a volt ohm meter (v.o.m) set on ohms scale. If no reading (considered open circuit ) is shown, then it is bad, and if there is a reading then please reply with result and we will continue further. Good luck!

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Thank you for your question, it is unlikely that door lock is bad causing this issue and highly possible that this is caused by a slow fill or slow drain. This unit has automatic cold fill for rinse cycle and will time out if it’s not getting appropriate amount of water. It will also do same if drain cycle is too long, so you must first monitor to see if this happens during the fill portion of the rinse cycle. If so, it may only be a dirty inlet valve screens, so please monitor to determine if it happens at that part of cycle.

Here is a link to show how to clear your drain trap assembly. This is very similar but not exact to your model, so please reply back with your results so we can continue if necessary.

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In reply to: flam will nor stay lit

This is typically going to be an air flow issue. With the vent off the back of the unit are you getting good air flow out of the dryer? You could have lint build up in the duct of the dryer somewhere or the blower wheel is broken, both of which will prevent good air flow and cause your unit to short cycle the heat. Please check your model number again. It appears it is not correct. I have attached some videos for you on this issue.

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HI. I have attached a video on replacing the main control board on a front load washer. The part number is not the same as yours and neither is the model, but the repair is very similar. This will show you how to install your main board.

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Hello i am guessing you are having defrost issues? there are only three parts in the circuit the heater, bi-metal/thermostat and the main control. If the heater tested good and the bi-metal/thermostat is good as well then you need to check the wires for a short. If no shorts found you will need the control. I have provided a wire diagram so you can see.

  • Guest answered 10 years ago
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In reply to: flam will nor stay lit

Hello, have you seen the flame? Did you check to see if the high limit thermostats on the burner house are not tripping? the high limits will cut the flame if they are failing but you have to get to them when the dryer flame shuts off early. With everything you have changed i would do the high limits.

  • Guest answered 10 years ago
0 votes
In reply to: either worm or frozen

Check your temps in side the refrigerator. It should be 32-40 deg. The freezer should be about 5 deg. Make sure your condenser is clean and the compressor, condenser and evaporator fan motors are all working. Is this located in a garage or in the home? what is the temperature around the unit? I have attached a bulletin on this unit freezing food in the FF section as well as the service manual.

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hello, looks like you are working on a old one. if the burners are still working then your voltage should be good. i did not see any safety thermostats on this unit. if power is good i would suggest changing out the clock/control. #WB19X10007. Also i did not find that exact model number on any parts sites. if you could double check it that would help us help you.

  • Guest answered 10 years ago
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Hello, I have found a service bulletin for this issue. I provided a link to the bulletin and a parts store that carry’s it. Hope this helps, sorry i could not find a video for this issue.

  • Guest answered 10 years ago
  • last active 10 years ago
0 votes

Hello
I have provided a tech. sheet to diagnose the board for your series. This will show you how to test the board. Matt Ace technician

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