All Answers

Hi. The flashing light means an error code is present. You will need to go in to the diagnostic mode to see what the error code is. I have attached the tech sheet that has all of then error codes and explains how to get into diagnostic mode. I have attached a video as well that shows how to do this. Let me know what error code you are getting.

Remove the cover on the motor and drive, make sure the belt is still attached and turns freely. You’ll find the tech sheet stuck inside the front of the cabinet, best reached from underneath as well. Do some diagnostics and see if you can make the shifter assembly work. It makes a noticeable click when it shifts. It is also the weak point on the washer, as recent history has shown. If the shifter is activating, it could have a stuck switch in it, or the machine control itself could be the issue. The shifter also has a tach-gen which is seeking tub movement. Also check the lock mechanism itself to make sure “building manager” has it installed properly and plugged in correctly!

I was informed by one time that you can unplug the turbidity sensor and it should run normally (without sensing). Have you tried it on this model? I know I did once when the unit would stall in the cycle and run for hours. Kept thinking it was a tun thermostat or control issue, when it turned out to be the sensor. Be sure the two lenses on the Honeywell sensor are clear and shiny. If they can’t perceive light beams well, the cycles will be sketchy. I have had good luck with a few doses of concentrated Lemi-Shine in a wash cycle, letting it circulate for a minute, then opening the door to allow the citric acid to do its thing. If all else fails, replace the sensor.

You might have a loose connection in the wall plug or further back at the breaker. Probably on the neutral side….
Try a temporary connection using an extension cord to a distant outlet. You see 120 volts where the cord connects to the range, and also at the black and white wires on the ERC. I suspect wall plug issues reverse polarity or bad ground wire.

Hi. I have not seem this issue on this unit before. I did check the tech sheet and I do not see that error codes listed either. Did you check the motor? Do you have an open winding? These motors do not go bad very often. IF you have not already, enter into the diagnostic mode and check to see if there are any other error codes in the system and run an auto test cycle to see if it works in diagnostic mode. Let me know what you find.

Disconnect the touch pad from the ERC, if unit starts to beep after doing this it is a problem with the ERC, if not it should be the touch pad. Unfortunately this will disable the oven but at least you can get it narrowed down before you replace a $300 clock.

ERC Quick Test
The process requires two people. To access the program, one person should stand at the oven, while
the other is located at the circuit breaker. The person at the circuit breaker turns off the breaker and
then the person at the oven depresses and holds the cooktime keypad. The person at the circuit
breaker then turns the breaker back on. The display will show the 4-character identification code of the
ERC. Example (1180)
You have 30 seconds between each test mode.
Note: if unit shows time of day start procedure over again.
Test 1
Push and hold convection bake
Bake element and convection fan activate.
Test 2
Push and hold Standard Bake
Bake element activate.
Test 3
Push and hold Pure Convection
Convection fan and convection element activate.
Test 4
Push and hold broil
Broil element activate. (on gas units – ignitor will activate.)
Test 5
Push and hold convection broil (select models)
Broil element and convection fan activate.
Test 6
Momentary push timer 2
Audible tone will sound.
Test 7
Push and hold stop time
Cooling fan activate.
Test 8
Momentary push clock
All LEDs will light up. Push + or – key pad. LEDs wil display numbers
Example: 1111, 2222, 3333, 4444 etc.
Test 9
Last test door open, push and hold cook time for 10 seconds
Self clean latch motor activate. Door latch will complete one cycle.
The test will end and ERC will display the time of day.
NOTE:
Complete all tests within 30 seconds – otherwise you will see a failure code (F-0: Stuck key pad) displayed
on the ERC.
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 4
OUTPUT VOLTAGE CHECK POINTS
ON ERC/CLOCK CONTROL
All Ranges And Wall Ovens
When programming the oven into a cooking cycle, you first select the desired mode on the
touch membrane. Pressing this key sends a message to the ERC/Clock control, which in
turn triggers 24 Volts DC to be sent to the main relay board through the connective harness.
The desired relay (for example, Pure Convection) closes and distributes power to the
desired components. In order to correctly diagnose this sequence you need a volt meter
set on DC voltage. Drop the Bezel/Control panel down thus exposing the ERC/Clock and
related wiring. Dropping the control panel down will expose the back side of the ERC/Clock
control and main wiring harness. The connective harness will have 16 pins. Using a voltmeter
take the test leads and insert into the backside of the main wiring harness
To take a voltage reading using the ERC connection chart below:
1. Set the voltage meter to DC voltage
2. Insert the test lead into the backside of the main harness
(plugged into the backside of the ERC control.)
For example: if bake isn’t working:
a) Insert the test leads into connections (2-5)
b) Program the unit into the bake cycle
The meter should read 22-24 Volts DC
TEST POINT 16
ERC CONNECTOR
B etw een Pins R elay Should R ead
1-3 DBL 24 VOLTS
2-5 BAKE 24 VOLTS
2-6 BROIL 24 VOLTS
2-7 CONVECTION
ELEMENT 24 VOLTS
2-9 CONVECTION
FAN 24 VOLTS
1-11 DOOR MOTOR
(LATCH MOTOR) 24 VOLTS
1-13 COOLING FAN 24 VOLTS

On the Jenn- Air ovens, it was a normal practice to also replace the hinge receptacles on the door. The internal pins in the old receptacles will bend out of shape enough to gap the door .Also on some of those units there was a tech bulletin out to also install a couple of fiber washers between the hinge assembly and /or receiver to create even a tighter fit when the door closes. There is more on specific models , the entire oven door liner must be replaced, especially if the customer was a self-clean junkie.

A change has been implemented to the hinge and receptacle parts installed on all Single, Combo,
and Convenience Wall Ovens. Existing hinge and receptacle parts will not fit on upgraded models,
and new hinge and receptacle parts will not fit on old models.
On the models listed in the table below, an upgraded model can be identified by a serial prefix
number. When servicing models manufactured prior to the serial prefix number change, a kit
consisting of the hinge and receptacle is required. When servicing models manufactured after the
serial prefix number change, the hinge or receptacle may be replaced as a separate item.
NOTE: When ordering replacement parts, use the following chart to determine the correct part
for the unit being repaired.

Models JJW8527DDB, JJW8527DDQ, JJW8527DDS, JJW8527DDW,
JJW8627DDB, JJW8627DDQ, JJW8627DDS, JJW8627DDW,
JMW8527DAQ, JMW8527DAW, JJW9527DDB, JJW9527DDS,
JJW9527DDW, JJW9627DDB, JJW9627DDS, JJW9627DDW,
JJW9827DDB, JJW9827DDP, JJW9827DDS, JJW9827DDW,
JMW8527DAB, JMW8527DAS, JMW9527DAB, JMW9527DAS,
JMW9527DAW, JJW7530DDB, JJW7530DDS, JJW7530DDW,
JJW8530DDB, JJW8530DDW, JJW8530DDQ, JJW8530DDS,
JJW8630DDB, JJW8630DDW, JJW8630DDQ, JJW8630DDS, JJW9530DDB, JJW9530DDP,
JJW9530DDS, JJW9530DDW, JJW9630DDB, JJW9630DDW, JJW9630DDS, JJW9830DDB,
JJW9830DDP, JJW9830DDS, JJW9830DDW, JMW8530DDB, JMW8530DAW, JMW8530DAQ,
JMW8530DAS, JMW9530DAB, JMW9530DAS, JMW9530DAW
Issue Hinge and Receptacle Modification

Hello
This the famous hidden bake element WP9755770 ,W10308474. You will need to pull out the unit. You will then see the side access panel on the left side of the unit. Remove it and the bake element will be exposed. You can only remove this from the side access. Matt Ace technician

Hi. If all connections are good then you have either a bad motor control board -MCU or CCU- main control board. Make sure the back and bottom panels are in place so that the ground switches are engaged and the outlet has proper power. Reset the unit by unplugging for 15 mins. With not getting any basket movement I would first suspect the MCU, but it is hard to say which one is bad and they do not have a way to test which one is bad. Also, check out theses links that have some more information on this error code for you. Let me know if you have any further questions on this. https://www.appliancevideo.com/repair-help/question/f28-error-code , https://unitedservicersblog.com/2013/11/26/how-to-fix-all-serial-communication-error-codes-in-whirlpool-built-front-load-washers/ .

Hi. Yes, it looks like you have to remove all the burners to remove the glass top. It shows on the parts break down I looked at, that the screws for the burners attach into the orifice holder assemblies, like you have stated. So the burners have to be removed to get the glass top off. When I have rusted screws like this I have used a couple of different methods. You can take a drill bit and drill the heads of the screws off, then you should be able to remove the burners. I do not think the burner holes that the screws to through are threaded. Should just be in the orifice holder that is threaded, so breaking the head of the screws off will allow you to remove the burners. Then after the burner and glass top is off you can apply some penetrating oil on the screws and use a pair of vise grips or pliers to turn the screws out. There should be enough left of the screw with just the heads gone to grip on to. You could also try a “screw out” or screw extractor tool.

Hi. The freezer should be around 0-5 deg. and the refrigerator should be between 32 and 40. The first thing I would check is for proper air flow. With the refrigerator staying cold at the bottom and warm at the top it would seem there is not air circulation. The refrigerator has its own separate evaporator and evap fan motor. The fan motor comes in an assembly. . p # https://www.savemoreonparts.com/part/geh/wr17x12490 . This fan could not be running, or the unit could not be going into defrost and is not able to circulate air because the evaporate is compacted with heavy frost build up. What is the exact temp in the freezer?

I am assuming you are talking about the electric Air Damper Assembly. Here are links below with video and parts breakdowns. Matt Ace technician

Hi. Looks like this is a cook top only. No oven. I assume your referring to the burners. The temperature of the burners is going to be controlled by the infinite switches. They regulate how hot the burners get through the resistance and contacts inside the switch.

Hi. I have found a video on a similar water filter housing. Yours looks like it is located on the back wall on the bottom of the refrigerator. You will need to remove the lower shelves and drawers to gain access to it. There may be a cover to remove first and some screws securing the housing in place. The water lines will be done like it the video. Your water lines may not got to the top of the unit like in the video. They may just go down to the inlet valve under the rear panel of the back of the unit. Just take note of where the old lines from the housing go.

The usual demise of these units freezing up occurs from air infiltration through the dispenser flap. This causes ice in the bottom of the bucket to weld together, making the augur strain to grind up the blockage. This in turn strips the drive bar, etc. I would replace the fountain ice door assembly along with the ice motor parts. I always use new seals at the top where the drive rod sits. I would also suspect ice door damper is staying open.too much and catching cubes. My last ice in door had a slightly worn damper-delay (perhaps adding grease to the damper would slow it down) but I replaced it and could see another full second before shut. Matt Ace technician

Her is a video link I think will help. Its not the exact model but is is close. We do not have a video on the exact model as of yet. Thanks Matt Ace technician https://www.appliancevideo.com/premium/samsung-rf263teaesr-refrigerator-leaking-water-filter-head-assembly/

Yes, the control board had been more than likely damaged after a power surge. This is very common. Make sure you have proper power to the unit. After a power surge the electrical of the house may have been damaged as well. It is also, possible the control is glitched up after the surge and just needs unplugged to reset it. There is no defrost timer that I see on this unit. Looks the the control controls the defrost as well. p# 297370600

Hi. I have attached a video on how to take the Freezer racks, door, and tracks off. I hope this is what you are looking for. There are a few different ways to take this freezer apart. The video does not show removing the lower rails that the main door is attached to. There is a white clip on each one about half way down the length of the tracks in the middle to push in on and then the tracks will slide forward all the way out. You can leave the door on and release these clips to remove the door with both tracks together.However, the tracks can stay in and you still will be able to get the back panel off.

Check to see if it is a child lock If so hold it in till it goes off. Also check the thermal cutoff on the heater.
ENTER & EXIT FIELD SERVICE MODE
From idle state, press and hold the “Signal” and “” buttons for 3 seconds. Lock
Upon entering the service mode, the Control shall be in test selection mode and display the test number first (t01).
Rotating the knob counter clockwise (CCW) shall decrement the test number in the display.
Rotating the knob clockwise (CW) shall increment the test numbers in the display.
Once the test number is selected, pressing “Start/Pause” shall begin the selected test.
During a test, pressing “Power” button shall terminate that test and bring the Control to the test selection mode (test number is displayed on the display).
Pressing “Power” key during the test selection mode shall exit the Service mode.
(E00 – All
E01 – Read/Write problem Reading or writing improperly. Verify EEPROM access
E02 – Inlet Thermistor Short Check and replace inlet thermistor if necessary
E03 – Outlet Thermistor Short Check and replace outlet thermistor if necessary
E04 – Inlet Thermistor Open Check and replace inlet thermistor if necessary
E05 – Outlet Thermistor Open Check and replace outlet thermistor if necessary
E06 – Different EEPROM Compare UI type stored in EEPROM and physical UI present
E07 – Stuck Button Verify if there is any button stuck Low
E60 – Door Switch Open Door switch must be close
E61 – Control Board Miswired L2 and N miswired (AC input too high)
E62 – Control Board Input AC line frequency detection error and low input voltage
E80 – Control Board invalid Invalid UImodel
E81 – Control Board invalid Invalid Power model
ERROR CODES
Error Codes
Programming

This is how you force a defrost mode.This product comes equipped with an Electronic DefrostControl. To initiate defrost, depress the fresh food light switch 5 times in 6 seconds (light bulb must be working). To terminatedefrost, depress the fresh food light switch 5 times in 6 seconds.

Here is the tech sheet also on this unit for you. Good luck!