All Answers

Have you put a new igniter on it yet? That is the first thing I would do since it broke. After the igniter is on, if it still will not heat, you could be looking at the gas valve at this point since you know the coils, igniter, and flame sensor are good. Gas valves are very uncommon to fail. With that noise you are getting from the gas valve, I would check that you put the metal sleeve back onto the coil shaft of the big gas coil. The sleeve will come off with the old gas coil and stay inside of it.This sleeve is needed for operation. This is the first thing I would check if you were getting this noise more so after you put the new coils on. After this if your still not heating check that their is actually gas to the unit. On a lot of units there is a small gas valve near the valve assembly inside the unit. Make sure it is on. Also check to see if you actually have gas to the unit. Many times I have asked customers if they had gas shut off for any reason or gas lines worked on and they say no only to find there is no gas to the dryer. Let me know what you find out!

Have you put a new igniter on it yet? That is the first thing I would do since it broke. After the igniter is on, if it still will not heat, you could be looking at the gas valve at this point since you know the coils, igniter, and flame sensor are good. Gas valves are very uncommon to fail. With that noise you are getting from the gas valve, I would check that you put the metal sleeve back onto the coil shaft of the big gas coil. The sleeve will come off with the old gas coil and stay inside of it.This sleeve is needed for operation. This is the first thing I would check if you were getting this noise more so after you put the new coils on. After this if your still not heating check that their is actually gas to the unit. On a lot of units there is a small gas valve near the valve assembly inside the unit. Make sure it is on. Also check to see if you actually have gas to the unit. Many times I have asked customers if they had gas shut off for any reason or gas lines worked on and they say no only to find there is no gas to the dryer. Let me know what you find out!

Im having a hard time finding the tech sheet on your model. If you have access to the tech sheet on your unit, we will need to look at it. It is typically located on the rear of the unit in a bag. WE need to find out where power for the indicator light comes from on you unit. On Most models the power comes from the infinite switches, but maybe its different on this one. If we do not have a tech sheet we can trace the wires back from the light to see where they go to. We could have a shorted wire somewhere causing the light to stay on or it may come out of the board. Let me know what you find out. Could Also be a shorted element of an issue with the element. Check the element that corresponds to the light that is staying on.

We always replace the complete evaporator cover which includes the insulation, fan, housing, sensor, etc., it is all in one deal. You are on the right track when finding drain backup, saturated insulation will cause drain freeze up.

GE front load washer error codes are accessed from the service mode and provide a very good starting point to pinpoint problems with these washers. The way these washers are setup it can be very hard to pinpoint problems without entering the service mode and viewing the error codes. One thing you must understand is that the error codes doesn’t necessarily diagnose the washer for you; it simply gives you a starting point. Follow the steps below it sounds like a bad speed controller (inverter) from the symptoms .

Follow these steps to enter the service mode on a GE front load washer.

1. Close the door.

2. Clear current cycles by pressing the power button. Make sure the screen is blank before attempting to enter the service mode.

3. Disconnect power to washer for at least 30 seconds.

4. Reconnect the power and within 30 seconds of reconnecting power complete the next step.

5. Press signal -delay start -signal – delay start.

If you successfully enter the washer into the service mode, T01 will be displayed and the door will lock.

Hi. The tech sheet on this unit is usually located under the top right door hinge cover.

First thing I would do is enter diagnostic mode by doing the following.

To ENTER SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS Mode:
Press SW1 and SW2 simultaneously for 3 seconds. Release both buttons when you hear the CHIME indicator.
Unit must not be in Lockout prior to entering SERVICE DIAGNOSTIC MODE.
The display will show 01 to indicate the control is in step 1 of the diagnostics routine.
To EXIT SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS Mode: do one of the following 3 options:
• Press SW1 and SW2 simultaneously for 3 seconds.
• Disconnect the product from power.
• Allow 20 minutes to pass.
Following the exit of the diagnostic mode, the controls will then resume normal operation.
Cooling diagnostics are steps 1 through 7 and 32 through 39. Dispensing diagnostics are steps 8 through 31.
Each step must be manually advanced. Press SW5 to move to the next step in the sequence. Press SW4 to
back up in the sequence to the previous step. Diagnostics will begin at Step 1. Each step is displayed in the two
digits of the dispenser user interface display. The step results are displayed in the two digits on dispenser user
interface display 2 seconds after the step number is displayed. An amber order filter light will be shown to
designate that the step number is being displayed and a red replace filter light will be shown to designate that
the status of the step is being displayed. All button and pad inputs shall be ignored and all inputs shall be off
except as described in the actions for each step.

Then you can perform these tests listed below to help you diagnose the issue with the ice maker.

Service Test – 57 Ice Maker Harvest
• Press SW3 to activate a Harvest sequence. Digit 1 displays the state of the sequence. Digit 2 displays the
outcome of the sequence. Once initiated, the sequence cannot be exited.
Digit 1 0 = Heater and Motor OFF, 1 = IM Heater ON, 2 = Motor Rotating CW until it finds home position
Digit 2 0 = In Progress, 1 = Harvesting Completed, 2 = Harvesting Not Completed

Service Test – 45 Ice Maker Water Fill Test
NOTE: BEFORE INITIATING THIS TEST, GO TO STEP 57, INITIATE ICE MAKER HARVEST TO INSURE
ALL ICE IS EJECTED FROM MOLD BEFORE FILLING.
• After an initial 3 second delay, displays the Ice Maker water fill state on the UI display. Press SW3 to start
awater fill. Pressing SW3 will toggle between ON and PAUSE. (02 = Off, 03 = On, 04 = Paused

Let me know if you need any further assistance.

This is the common ice maker for the Whirlpool, Maytag, Kitchen Aid, Amana Icemaker assembly W10498261 subs to W10764668 . We do not have a specific replacement video for this ice maker as of yet. What is the specific issue you are having ? Matt Ace technician

Sounds like a faulty cold control. This is common symptom of a bad cold control. A lot of times if you tap on them they will start working again. I would replace the cold control.

Hi. Unfortunately it sounds like you have a sealed system problem. You should have light frost across the whole evaporator. A partial frost pattern or a ball of ice on the incoming side of the evaporator is a symptom for a sealed system issue. You could have a leak in the system, a restriction, or a faulty compressor. This is an expensive repair for a company to perform and usually is not cost effective. You would need to install access valves to tap the system and check your high and low pressures with a set of refrigerant gauges.

This is going to be a VMW whirlpool washer. To enter diagnostic mode you must toggle the timer knob in this order. left, right, right, right, left, right.When it enters diagnostic all lights will blink.Then turn cycle knob until only spin and done lights are on.That is going to be manual diagnostic mode. Once there hit start button to enter the diagnostic mode. Once enter turn knob once and should only be done light on. hit start again and that will activate the cold valve. Hit start to stop and turn knob one more turn and spin light will come on. That will activate the hot water valve when you hit start. On either of these test you can check for power at valve. If not getting 120v then you know the board is bad. If getting 120v and not getting water still you know the valve is bad. Matt Ace technician

IT will give error codes, but it may not be detecting an issue at this time. There should be a tech sheet in this unit, usually in the front bottom right corner in an envelope between the cabinet and blower housing. Then you can check the error codes and run a diagnostic. Is the dryer still taking too long to dry? Try taking the vent off the back of the dryer and see if it makes a difference. Check that all of the element is heating up. Some times part the the element will break and/or short out causing only a portion of the element to heat up.

SD code is a “Slow Drain”
You could be seeing a pump that is not working as it should. The tub must settle down to spin withing a certain time frame after the cycle begins. Check with a flashlight through the tub holes to make sure nothing is preventing the downward travel of the tub, such as an item of clothing. Common on this model.

Rodney
See link below for a Samsung french door evaporator fan motor access and replacement. Thanks Matt Ace appliance technician

Robert
Once you have verified your vent and housing is clean from lint and is not restricted and you have good air flow. There is a possibility of a weak igniter. When igniters get weak they will still glow but the heat lowers their resistance and they cannot hold the coils open and you get short cycling. If you are having the same issue after you have checked for all lint restrictions MAKE SURE you try the igniter first before purchasing a gas valve. A # 279311 igniter is a fraction of the cost of the gas valve # 280119 and is more common. Matt Ace technician

Igniter link ————- http://www.savemoreonparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=279311
Gas valve link—– http://www.savemoreonparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=280119

Hi. This does not sound like a gas valve issue. IT sounds like you have an air flow issue. Clogged venting is usually the problem. The dryer is short cycling the heat because the air flow is restricted. Check your air flow out of the vent at the outside of the house. You can also pull the vent off the back of the dryer and see how the air flow feels. Check your flame and heat cycle with the vent off. If its better then you know its the venting. IF your still not getting good air flow with the vent off then you could have lint build up in the blower housing or a bad blower wheel.

Sounds like an air flow issue. That’s the first thing I would check. Check air flow coming out of the vent at the outside of the house. Could have clogged venting or a blower wheel that’s broken. This causes the unit to heat but it short cycles the heat which causes long dry times. If air flow is not the issue you may have bad a defective heating element or safety thermostat. See videos and part links below. Brain Ace technician

I would recommend checking the ice maker and inlet valve on this unit. If its leaking inside the freezer change the ice maker and if its leaking behind the refrigerator on to the floor change the water inlet valve.

I sounds like this unit needs a new thermal use and thermostat. These are very common on this model. See parts and video links below.

Those are error codes for a bake igniter issue. I would start with the bake igniter and email us back if any error codes come up after its installed. See parts and video links below.

This unit needs a new high limit thermostat, also may need to clear ice from evaperator. See parts and video links below.