All Answers

Hector
The two most common problems on a no spin for this specific model are :
1) Agitator coupling that strips out.
2) The mode shifter.

If you can find the technician sheet in the machine normally by the control panel. It will instruct you how to determine by blinking lights near the motor what part is defective. Every machine is different but I did provide you with a video of each repair and a parts breakdown link. Thanks Matt Ace technician

I have had a lot of boards repaired by fix a board good results. We have used both w/good results. However, FixYourBoard does comprehensive testing of their boards. I go with Core Centric -because it is much Faster turn around time, good quality and usually less expensive but regardless of who you have rebuild it, , Always advise the customer that rebuilding is not successful 100% of the time because, just like appliance repairs themselves, sometimes the component need to repair the board is no longer available either or you may get a board back from the re-builder and install it and find only part of the problem was corrected especially depending on who the re-builder is (hint: read the first line above). If this is a run of the mill Electronic Relay Control versus a high-end brand oven controller does affect the success of the repair.

This is why a steam gun is vital! It will ensure that all ice is clear and it also sterilizes the tube. This saves using a cupful of bleach to treat any residual mold, etc. This looks like the old style General Electric from years ago
Look at cabinet diagram the drain line should run exposed down the back wall.

This model has a stater and hub. Lay it down on it’s front and you can access the hub from the bottom. I can’t remember what size the nut is but there may be something stuck to the magnets between the stater and hub . Pull the hub and check the magnets. Remember to be careful when pulling the hub to keep fingers clear between hub and the magnet. it is very strong and can punch fingers. I had the same sound once and spinning erratically. I found a small finishing nail stuck to the magnet. Also Make sure to check the plastic gears on the gear box. I have seen them broken, specifically the large gear controlled by the mode shifter motor. You should be able to see it without removing any of the motor components.

James, most likely, yes. I’d make sure to have one on you when you go. Part# 3949247. Good luck diagnosing and repairing!

Gary, it’s never a problem! We’re happy to help. Igniter part is 5303935066 and I’ll add it here for you as well as a related video.

That thermostat cut off kit is definitely possible and pretty probable as well if everything else checked out. Part # is 279816 and I’ll add a link below as well as a video for repair if needed.

Could be as simple as he ice maker thermal fuse needing replaced. Then can cycle the unit and check for proper operation. Hope this helps you!

Fred, that water valve assembly is AJU73532901 and we do not carry it either. May need to order it in or find a new vendor to go through for L-G parts.

Probably is the latch/handle assembly WD13X10028, but would also take the door strike just in case: WD13X10029. I’ll add links below if you want to purchase through us Good luck!

That jazz/electronic control board is W10503278 and unfortunately we do not stock it. Hopefully one of your local vendors do!

Harley, the belt for this is 134511600 and I’ll add the link for it as well. Good luck!

If it is changing the set cycle to something else, it is the UI board (or a stuck actuator button in the console).

My best advise is either the mems sensor or the suspension rods. We have seen both cause this symptom.
I would suggest replacing all 4 suspension rods because the mems sensor will usually throw an error.

Hello
I have looked at the model you have provided. Here a few things to check if you are not getting the proper temperatures. 1) Make sure the evaporator and condenser fan motors are running at and at proper RPM. 2) look at the evaporator to see if if it has a proper frost pattern after the unit has been running at least two hours. If it does not have an even frost pattern across the evaporator you could have a leak in the system, or a weak suction valve in the compressor or a possible restriction in the capillary tube. Let us know after you check these issues and if it helps. Matt Ace technician

Make sure your cold water fill is working properly. On all rinse cycles no matter what water setting you have it on it will rinse on cold. Also look at your inlet hoses, do you have the kind with a check valve in them ? I have seen the hoses fail mid way through the cycle. The only thing that throws me off is that it still agitated once advanced without filling, that usually means there is a pressure switch issue or timer issue which you have already replaced both. good luck.

Greg
If you need any parts call our parts department at 1-800-830-5465 or order on line at http://www.savemoreonparts.com . On this model you WILL NOT get the silver cover off without pulling the oven. Once the oven is out you will see two screws on each side of the silver plate. Another tip is to take pictures of the molex connectors before you unplug them from the board. There are about 7-8 of them and it will help you when installing the new board . We just taped this model three days ago and it is in the editing process as now. It will be on the site within two weeks. A little late for your project. Email us with any other issues. I hope it goes well give us an update when its done. Thanks Robert Ace technician Here are some links to oven repairs that may help. https://www.appliancevideo.com/?cat=&find=oven+repair&post_type%5B%5D=post&post_type%5B%5D=premiumvideos&post_type%5B%5D=fromthefield&post_type%5B%5D=embdvideo

Hi. You have replaced every part that is related to a drain issue. I would suspect something external at this point. With it happening every 3rd cycle, I would make sure the drain line of the house is not backing up into the disposal/sink. Sounds like after the first 2 cycles get enough water into the drain it starts to back up and then cause the dishwasher to not be able to drain out the 3rd cycle. Also, Check to make sure you have the updated (larger drain line). On some of their models they have increased the diameter of end of the drain line with the check valve in it. Check that the check valve is opening completely . Also, Make sure the drain line is elevated as high as is can go so you are not getting any water traveling back into the unit or creating a siphon issue. Let me know what you find out.