All Answers

Hello
See the service bulletin link below. They have changed the thermistor location. It will frost up again until you change the Thermistor location on page #3 in the service bulletin link. Also make sure your door is closing properly and you have a good seal. Matt Ace technician.

Hello
Is the compressor and condenser fan motor shutting of ? If so, it sounds like you are losing 24 volts to outdoor condensing unit. We have had units with float switches in the condensate pump shut down the 24 volts to the condenser. I would make sure you do not have a plugged or restricted condensate drain. Also check the thermostat, especially if its digital. It could be programmed to shut down at certain times. Check the thermostat program. Matt Ace technician

Hello
You could have:
1) Power control board
2) The power supply board causing this issue.
See video link and run the unit through diagnostics with our technician sheet link below.

See service manual link below.

Hello
Yes, on these models if you want the defrost heater it comes with the evaporator. You can remove the heater from the new evaporator and install it on the existing evaporator.

Hello
See links and video below. Matt Ace technician

Hello
See the technician sheet link below. You have a defrost thermistor located on the evaporator ? This could cause your frosting issue. The main control board controls the defrost system. See mini manual link below.

Hi. I have attached a link to a video that shows how to remove the door and tracks. Sounds like you have a damage door track that you will need to replace. You might be able to remove the door even if you can only open it half way. I have seen the freezer door tracks frozen that cause the door not to open as well. If this is the case, you will need to thaw them out.

Hello
See the technician diagnostics manual. The heater and thermostat are wired through the main control board. See schematic in the link below.

Hello
We have had the tub supports making a squealing noise during the beginning of the spin cycle. In these situations we have asked customers to record the noise on their phone if they can. Its hard to replace parts on speculation. See service manual. Hope this helps.

Hello
We cannot find a manual for this exact model but this one is very close in configuration and will probably be fine for disassembly and troubleshooting: Hope this helps.

Hi. You can check the thermistor for an ohms reading. It will read different at different temps. It can be hard to test since you need to know the current temp and what resistance it should be at that temp. There is a chart that will tell you how many ohms you should have at different temps. You have replaced the entire defrost system besides the thermistor. It is the only thing left causing the unit to not defrost. I would just replaced it. It is not expensive or hard to replace. When I go out on these units for a defrost issue, I will check the heater and defrost t-stat. If they are good, it only leaves the control or thermistor. It is almost never the control so I replace the sensor. I have even seen the sensors test good and they still be the issue.

Hi. I have attached the service manual for this unit. I did not find any videos. I would think grinding noise may be the gear case. Banging noise would be an off balance load. The best thing to do, would be just to look at it while the noise is happening to determine where it is coming from and go from there.

It sounds as though you could have a bad gearcase . By now, the dampers are also most likely compromised as well. (As per your description of what is happening). The gearcase part # W11035751. I have attached a video of the gearcase replacement. The video is of a different part #, however the replacement is the exact same.

Hello
See the diagnostics chart in the Job Aid link below. The dual water will read 20W on the Green side and 35W on the Red side. The schematic is on page #75 on the Job Aid link . Troubleshooting & diagnostics will start on page #76. There will be a service test for the dispenser diagnostics on page #77. Also see the technician service manual link.

Hello
This sounds like a possible motor clutch assembly. If you got to page #7, 8# in the Job Aid you will see the breakdown. I would also run the unit through the diagnostic mode with the technician service manual link below. Check for any stored error codes.

**Before you do anything , make sure that the drain hose height is ABOVE the top of the washer where it goes in to the stand pipe or drainage sink, otherwise you will have a siphon condition and the water will continue to run in and out . It will only work on mini wash because the drain hose is too low and that is the only water level low enough to be below the height of the drain hose. Make sure that not only the height is correct but also that the hose does not go too far into the stand pipe as that may also cause a siphon condition. If the drain hose height is not an issue then It sounds as though you have a water supply issue.It is either the customer water supply or water inlet valve. If you are certain that the water supply is good then you need to change the water inlet valve.(I really anticipate it may be a drain hose height issue though). I also have attached the service manual for your washer and please note that the diagnostics procedure(s) begin on page 32. Please refer to the service manual for proper diagnostics before changing any parts.

Hello
I would make sure your evaporator and condenser fan motors are running. Then look at the evaporator for an even frost pattern across the coil in the FF. Matt Ace technician

Hello
See the technician manual on the defrost control test mode link below. You are asking how do you check the defrost thermostat and the easiest way to replace it? But you said you replaced replaced the control board, heater and defrost thermostat. Did you mean the temperature control ? Matt Ace technician

Hello
I would run this through the diagnostic mode with the manual link below. It could be the start of a sealed system issue. Matt Ace technician