0 votes
2k views

this gas dryer isn’t getting hot, I’ve done the coils and idler pulley myself recently so not sure where to go from here.

  • Lisa Davis asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Need to get this fixed asap, have family in town and think I can handle it if someone could advise on parts I need?

  • Nathaniel asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
8k views

Usually, when I OPEN the fridge door I can hear a fan motor stop. I don’t hear it anymore. Now, frost is building in the freezer and on the evaporator coils (not a lot.) Some water drops collecting on top panel of freezer.
Food items are still frozen, but the fridge is not as cold as it should be. Does the evaporator fan have two speeds? One for constant, low-level cooling and another speed for catch-up cooling?

  • John asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
4k views

My son forgot to put the lint screen back in and a sock is missing from the load he did, would it have gotten sucked into the dryer somewhere? I wasn’t sure where to even look.

  • Steven G asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
3k views

Why would it stop at the same point a couple times in a row? I normally go in and open the lid to see it hasn’t finished, and then have to restart it at that point, and it works fine.

  • Fatima asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

could u give some ideas what to check or do thanks craig

  • craig harkness asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

if cycle speed is set to normal(slow/fast) water is pumped out on last cycle but the tub wont spin. no sound of clutch engaging is heard. open and close lid, clutch engagement sound is heard and tub starts to spin properly. if cycle speed is set to hand wash(extra slow/slow) sound of clutch engaging is heard at correct times and clothes are dry.

  • anthony franco asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

I seem to be missing something because the coils, igniter, thermostat, and fuse are all fine. What else is there that might have failed? Need this working.

  • Evan B asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

I can’t clear it and it doesn’t seem to respond to anything.

  • Mica asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Need this for the holiday and it doesn’t seem to be catching and igniting. Help!

  • Dorothy S asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Just went out on a call where a different company told the customer they needed a new ice maker because theirs wasn’t producing any ice or seeming to work at all. I replaced the saddle valve and cleared ice from the frozen line to the ice maker so they are now good to go. A lot of companies are trying to sell customers what they don’t need. We’ll get repeat business from this customer for a more costly repair because we know what to check and are honest.

0 votes
3k views

The oven wasn’t heating up and the stove wasn’t working either. Indicator light wouldn’t go off even when cool and not in use. Was able to reset the board and it seemed to work fine. Should I stress to replace it or let it go as is for now since it’s working again?

  • Guest asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Complaint was the freezer was not cold enough. The refrigerator has no error codes. The PCB board on the back has an LED light that is blinking two times. From the service manual, the two blinks mean there is something wrong with the wire harness to the compressor or the compressor be bad. Checked wire harness and everything looked ok. I reset the refrigerator (unplugged) and the refrigerator started cooling and the LED on the board stopped blinking. The unit cooled correctly for a few days. Now the refrigerator is not cooling at all. Neither the refrigerator or freezer section is cooling. No error codes again. The LED light is blinking twice again and compressor is running. Checked for sealed system for any visible oil leak and couldn’t fine any. unplugged unit. The LED stopped blinking, but the refrigerator did not start cooling. Any suggestions?

0 votes
3k views

All lights on 13 vdc. At J2. With J2 disconnected but 12vdc. with shifter connected. Can’t clear lights to enter test mode
Help neither lid switch or actuator available today

0 votes
8k views

Model – 253.26082100 Serial – WB63832311

Display in door flashing CE. Disconnected / reconnected wiring harness from control board that goes to display. Did not changed anything . Found upon opening door slowly display would clear out CE and then come back as you moved door.
Suspect wiring harness in door problem. Parts breakdown shows harness in bottom of door, but no part number. Anybody come across this before? Are you able to replace this harness? Thanks in advance

0 votes
2k views

I set my washer to run, it fills with water, starts to wash and the timer advances to completion in about 3 minutes. It does not do the spin cycle but he states it does drain. Any ideas what this might be? Thank you in advance.

0 votes
2k views

Replaced the main control on that Kenmore WP washer turns out it still was a pill. As I reported all lights were on and would not clear. New board was installed and unit started flashing rinse after several coin restarts it finally did start normal and I Could Get It Into Test Calibrate mode. I noticed the shifter glows red on this commercial washer.

0 votes
2k views

Washer exhibits excessive vibration when loaded. OK empty. Washer is level and all suspension components are also OK. Service manual leads to vibration sensor. My question is, where is the vibration sensor? I cannot locate it on the parts diagram. Thank you.

0 votes
2k views

This washer is a Vertical Modular Washer and I am trying to replace the gearcase. I have removed the the spanner nut, driven hub and the drive bock. I cannot get the basket to budge. Any other suggestions on how to remove the basket?

0 votes
3k views

Checked frost pattern today. It was basically uniform except it was slightly heaver on the last three coils. Temperature in freezer was 14 degrees and 30 degrees in the FF section. Controls were set at normal. On Jan 15th the refrigerator controls were set in the middle(normal) Twenty four hours larter the freezer temp was 21 degrees and the FF temp was at 25 degrees. The customer said it took four days for a bottle of water to freeze in the freezer. Evaporator and condenser fan motors are working normally. Damper is manual and works works properly ie opens and closes with the freezer control. Sears Technical assistance suggested suggested replacing the ADC. I’m more inclined to say the thermostat is bad. Any help is appreciated

0 votes
2k views

Refrigerator quits running and gets warm. Consumer hits it on the side with his hand and it starts up again and works fine for three or four days. Any thoughts as to what I should replace will be appreciated. Thank you.

0 votes
2k views

I start a load and the rinse light comes on and then the done light. I tried several times to activate diagnostic cycle and all I could get was the rinse light to come on. I am thinking a defective electronic control. Thank you for your help

0 votes
3k views

F11 fault code no tech sheet in washer any help appreciated

0 votes
2k views

Having issue with this LG made Kenmore. No tech sheet, evap fan motor is running all the time…tech was thinking that the relay on the board was bad. Any thoughts?

0 votes
3k views

This is a washer dryer combo it washes but when it goes into rinse it just drains and spins

  • Guest asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

From the question before on the combo I replace computer no timer and it is getting cold water

  • Guest asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

I will be looking at a Kenmore washer . Getting F1 error code. It looks like it may need a new main pcb. Has anyone come across this?
Thanks for any help.

0 votes
4k views

Timer motor will run to cool down part of cycle but won’t advance to off. The dryer ran from 10pm to 4am on cool down,

  • Guest asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Refrigerator stopped running last night. Only thing on was the light in the fridge when the door was opened. No fans running. Customer unplugged the fridge and left it that way until I arrived. . I plugged it in and everything started right up. After letting it run for about twenty minutes it had a good frost pattern on the evaporator, evap fan running and compressor obviously running. I did not find anything wrong with the fridge. Any thoughts on why the fridge stopped and what parts might need to be replaced? This is a side by side model. All I told the customer is lets leave it running over night and see if it quits again.I’m thinking the circuit board in the control panel may have reset after unplugging. Thank you for your help.

0 votes
2k views

All four burners are turning on when the left front burner is lit. I changed out that switch but there’s still an issue with them all coming on. What’s the deal?

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