Brand: Whirlpool

Hello,
Thank you guys for having this web page. I had a large power spike that has played hell with my house. The surge melted my cable for Internet and cable, the dryer isn’t getting hot, the dishwasher has no power and the fridge isn’t getting cold. I contacted whirlpool about a relay switch and this model does not have one. The lights work on the fridge, it blows out semi cold air. The compressor is cool to the touch and everything works minus cooling (you know the important part) I was wondering if you guys had any ideas or videos similar to this unit to test the compressor.

The dishwasher may tag model number is mdbh969aws2 doesn’t come on, I am sure the circuit board is fried but I don’t even know how to get to that. Please help!

My whirlpool fridge has lately been leaking about half a cup of water by the front left side. Is this a drain problem? If so, do you have replacement part for this model?
Thanks

I can’t get my washer to spin and I keep hearing a clicking sound. I’ve turned it on its side and took off the shield, the belt and motor turn freely by hand. After watching one of your videos, I’m thinking I need the shift actuator part # W10006355 but wanted to see what you think before I purchased it. The washer appears to have a small leak, the actuator looks a little rusty.

I went trough the diagnostic mode and ran a few tests. In the diagnostic mode it starts up normally, fills with water, empties water and spins normally at a slow/medium speed. The error codes that show are F1 E2 which from what I have read is a problem with the Drive motor or Main electronic control board. When I go to calibrate it starts to spin for a split second then it comes to sudden stop as if it gets stuck and the lid lock light starts to blink. This all started because when we try to run the washing machine and it would stay in sensing mode with the lid lock flashing while making a loud humming noise. I eventually smelled an electrical burning smell after leaving it in sensing for several minutes. After attempting this again I am noticing that after it goes through the sensing mode a couple of times and it wants to start up but it looks like it gets stuck because it comes to a sudden stop just like it does when its trying to calibrate.

Could this be the drive motor or main electronic control board?

In your ice-maker repair video, the technician uses a “jumper wire”; what is a jumper wire, and can any gauge wire work?

I am getting an F35 error on my washer as well as “SUDS” coming up. Been trying to find a video that might help me diagnose and repair it myself. Any thoughts on what could be causing it? Trying to get some direction.

i ran a diagnostic test on the washer but do not know how to interpret the codes.
code 1: F: sensing rinse done E: done
Code 2: F: sensing rinse spin done E: rinse spin done
code 3: F: sensing rinse spin done E: done
code 4: F:sensing spin E: done

Can you please tell me what this means….
The washer will not spin (makes the noise like it is spnning, the lock button flashes)

my refrigerator leaks how do I fix it

The thermostat seem to check out good.The fans in the fridge and freezer are blowing I cannot tell if the compressor goes on or not. What might I check to see if one of the other switches is bad. I don’t know if it is whirlpool or frigidaire. It is a sears coldspot.

Just watched your video and our washer has all of the symptoms of having a bad rear bearing. The washer is 9 years old. Is it worth fixing ourselves? Is it difficult?

I have checked and double checked the leveling of the washer and it’s perfect, but I still get the loud banging noise like the tub is out of balance and banging into the side of the washer’s frame.

There is no problem with the oven preheating but when it attempts to cycle on again, the gas doesn’t ignite – the spark igniter can be heard. The issue wouldn’t be the temperature sensor, since the unit calls for heat. The spark igniter can be heard. Is the issue most likely the safety valve?

Hi,
I just fixed the problem of my top freezer refrigerator leaking water following one of your videos, thank you so much! I am now wondering how long until the ice builds up again and clogs the drain. Is there anything you recommend we do to prevent this from happening again and do you know how long until I need to clear the drain again?
Thanks!

My icemaker works but the ice dispenser will not put ice nor water out. It starts to operate and then just sounds like it is hung up and stops.

We’re trying to determine what’s wrong with our dryer. The drum isn’t turning when it’s on, and my husband thinks the belt has broken. Is there another possibility? I saw an idler video that had similar problems as well. Wanted a resource for him to take a look at before trying to fix himself. Thanks!

Hello, my front-load Whirlpool is making a clunking noise when it spins. When I stopped the machine and started to spin the drum by hand afterwards, I could hear an almost scraping-like noise (almost like there’s a coin or something stuck between the rubber band and the actual drum), but when I pull the rubber band back and look in, I can’t see anything there.

I’m concerned that something has fallen below the drum itself. Do you have any suggestions on how I could get to it or how I should proceed? How bad is this for my machine?

Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

When starting a new washing cycle, the machine used to fill with water when the lid was closed, then the agitator would start after a few minutes…..Now, as soon as the lid is closed, the washer begins agitating with no water in the tub. The water starts filling about 5 seconds after the lid is closed with the agitator still working. The rest of the cycle appears normal until final spin…..It leaves some water (about 1/2 inch), at the bottom of the tub after the end of cycle. Now, the only way to get all water out of the tub after final spin is to turn on the extra rinse feature. This occurs regardless of wash type setting.

I watched this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4ULq9svKZk.

When I tested the 2 connections on the top of the fan thing, the one on the left had continuity but the one on the right did not. Then we removed the heating element and it was broken so I ordered a new one. But if I also didn’t have continuity on the operating thermostat does that mean that needs to be replaced as well? On the video, I couldn’t tell exactly what parts he was referring to.

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What is the part number for the p-trap, updated fix to correct the drain problem that leads to ice buildup and leaking in my Whirlpool bottom door refrigerator ?

Recently we got black out and our freezer only gets cold but cannot freeze the food anymore. and the casing outside which separates the freezer and the fridge becomes hot. Any idea what causing this problem? Thank you

Ice buildup on back wall of bottom freezer. If I scrape of ice around fan noise will stop then start back. Tried to look up by model # build could not

After watching your video on youtube ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lT1TIjupHk), I am pretty sure that I have the same problem with my fridge since it is not cooling.
My question is about the code for MFF2558WFB3. In the video ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lT1TIjupHk) the code used was 12 for MFF2558WFB3 Model.

Would you please confirm with me if I should use the same code? Otherwise how I can retrieve it?

Thank you very much for your time and I hope to hearing back from you.
Hussein