Brand: Maytag

We replaced the master controller board and followed instructions to program the the refrigerator. When entering last number and pressing the final key the frig beeps instead of temparature lights showing up. What is still wrong?

the unit won’t start up. i’m thinking that one of the boards are bad but need to verify root of the issue. thanks in advance.

The error code uL comes up every time the machine is used even when there is nothing in it. I tried a new rps sensor and didn’t fix the problem. I’m thinking it may be the main board. looking for help with this one.
Thanks, Charley

It started when wife did load of clothes and after machine stopped everything was still wet. When I removed clothes I thought that she had it overloaded. Then checked for codes and got an F7 and an F5 code and not sure how long they were there. I Followed the proceedure in the Service Manual to clear codes and run diagnostic. Codes are now clear and not coming back but I don’t think that I am actually getting it in diagnostic mode. I can get the 88 on the screen but then nothing else happens and I also cannot even find the way to manually test. Anyway I did an ohm test on Motor all terminals at 5.9 ohms which is good. Also checked the 2 motor control wires which also checked out good at approximately 117 ohm. When doing a wash, when washer gets to point where the tub would turn It has a slight jump and then nothing. I am sure the motor is good. Also checked the ground wires and they seem okay but one of them goes to the back of tub and that whole area is rusted I get continuity at the wire but not when I touch the rusted area. I have noticed by reading all these that a lot of people have trouble with the diagnostics and that is the first thing I want to make sure that I can make happen. Thank you and hope you can answer this by what I have provided.

After a wash or rinse cycle the drain hose will squirt water for a few seconds and the system then stops.
I can manually drain the washer and if I hit the timer spot right after a timer rotation the next segment will run until it hits the drain phase. If I manually drain the rinse cycle the spin cycle will complete normally, including draining its water. The drain hoses seem clear, and if I lower the washer’s drain hose to the floor I get a dramatic fountain of water.
I confirmed everything underneath turns freely. Replaced the belts on principal because they were 22 years old. Ohm checked the lid switch and it seems fine. Replaced the lid switch because it is so universally damned and no so expensive. The new one ohms out fine. Response to opening and closing the lid while running is fine.
Using my meter on the pressure switch it correctly identifies full and empty. Reads full after the drain cycle aborts.
The motor does not feel particularly warm.
Dryer is level.
When running generally sounds very smooth.
What else do I need to check/tell you?

I’VE had this machine for 4 years.
when I pick any of the various wash cycles its starts out fine but when the count down time gets around (9-1) the washing cycle know starts flashing and a 5 d codes appears.
It wont spin , drain or complete its cycle when I hit the start cycle sometimes it restarts or just keeps flashing.
I occasionally I get the UL code too I check the load and it restarts and sometimes it doesn’t just would like to know what it could it be or is it worth getting fixed.

Thank You
Mark

My dryer runs and heats up as expected in timed modes. However, in REGULAR mode (or automatic mode), it runs normal too, but the heat stops “heating” after about 5 minutes of being turned on. The Dryer LED indicator still shows it is drying with heat. It hasn’t even entered the cool mode yet. The clothes do not dry completely.

I have replaced the 4″ vent duct with a new clean duct. I cleaned and vacuumed the inside of the dryer too, including internal duct parts. Air blasted the blower blades. I removed the plastic filter housing and pressure washed the insides perfectly clean. Air flow is very plentiful. Looks brand new. Since I do HVAC as a living, I checked the following components: Radiant sensor, Thermostat (gas flame), Thermal fuse, Thermistor and Thermostat (dryer side). I cleaned all of them properly.

My conclusion is, that the thermistor (reading 10K ohms at room temperature) could be bad since I do not know for sure what it is supposed to read at different temperatures and it is a sensor that is directly exposed to the elements inside the dryer. I paid special attention on cleaning it, suspecting that it may have a bi-metal surface in contact with lint and moisture.

My other concern is the two “moisture sensors” (cathodes?). They look clean (and I wiped them down with water and a clean cloth) and I made sure that the blue wires are not loose when re-attaching them. How can two pieces of clean metal go bad? They look like stainless steel. To narrow the problem down, I thought about jumping the two blue wires, by-passing the moisture sensor plates to simulate a constant presence of moisture, but didn’t want to do any possible damage. My second thought was to place a wet sponge securely across the two plates to see if any improvement is noticed during a test run.

Lastly, the unlikely problem could be the electronics within the circuit board.

What do I need to do to positively find out what the problem is so I can fix the dryer?
Your reply is deeply appreciated.
Regards, Patrick Kieran.