Appliance Type: Dryer

Hello,
Our Fisher & Paykel DEGX2US dryer takes forever and does not generate much heat.
After cleaning the dryer inside and out and removing a lot of lint, I followed your fantastic video at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OpZXoD16uvs. I was hoping that the resettable switch had tripped, but it appears that the rear element is the cause as it failed the simple continuity test. Is there a way to fix it (fuse? detached wire?) or should I order a new element from you guys?

Thank you for the great site, videos, and service!
Dotan

GETTING POWER INTO THE BOARD, LIGHTS WORK & CHECKED FUSE; TESTED GOOD BUT CAN NOT GET DISPLAY TO POWER UP. ORIGINAL ERROR CODE WAS F16.

I have a frigidaire dryer that no longer heats, my clothes are still wet inside after two cycles. I had a hard time finding the correct replacement part online and there wasn’t a video I could find for my model. Hoping someone can help!

My gas dryer isn’t heating up any longer and everywhere I looked suggested the coils. But when I accessed them and checked them, there weren’t any issues. What should I move on to next? Thermostat?

I have an electric dryer that I can’t figure out. It’s not heating and I initially thought it was the element. I got it apart and checked that, but it seems fine. Then I found a video on here suggesting the thermostat, but that is also coming back fine. What a I missing?

I was trying to figure out why my dryer won’t turn. I took the panel off and the belt is still on, it hasn’t broken or slipped off, but the drum doesn’t rotate when on. Any thoughts?

I have a Whirlpool Duet gas dryer, GGW9200LQ0 that is roughly 12 years old. It runs and generates heat but in the last 10-11 months it has been taking too long dry a load of laundry (unlike its first 11 years of service)

I have previously disassembled it and vacuumed out excessive lint from the internals. This seems to help for some time but I need to do it again after 6 months.

The dryer does not turn off during a cycle but it doesn’t dry clothes completely. E.g. a 90 minute high heat cycle leaves 6-8 pairs of jeans warm and damp.

The dryer was moved to my basement about 10 months ago and a new rigid venting line installed (no screws). It’s about a 12′ run of venting upwards to a ground level exhaust vent and has about 3 elbows in the venting run. I just disassembled the venting and had to clean out lots of lint in the venting again.

I know how to test the thermostats, is there a way to test the other combustion components for problems? Shouldn’t the lint screen be catching more of the lint than this?

Also – how often should the thermostats, moisture sensor bars, coils and ignitors be changed? Would the drive belt, rollers and idler pulley be due for replacement at 12 years of average use?

Replace therm switch dryer was tumbling but now when I push to start the dryer starts and stops and start and control light flashes and have no codes checked everything what else is there to do .I try reset and retrieve codes and get nothing whats your guess

Replace therm switch dryer was tumbling but now when I push to start the dryer starts and stops and start and control light flashes and have no codes checked everything what else is there to do .I try reset and retrieve codes and get nothing whats your guess

I watched replacing video and it was Excellent. I however don’t have a meter to check it after installing. So I tried powering up dryer after I was done and it kicked breaker right away. Trying to figure out where I went wrong. Dryer was working fine except for broken hearing element. I did take fuse and thermostat to work where guy checked them and they were working. Did I ground dryer while reassembling?

dryer won’t start. turn drum by hand & then push start button it will start. let go of start button it will stop.

Our dryer isn’t heating up. My husband checked the coils because I heard that was a typical repair, but they are fine and working. What else can we check?

dryer is drying But it seem like the heating Element stays on. I have taken it apart and seen the one of the elements is burned out. So now that i am waiting for the part is there anything else that would cause that element to stay on..

I just replaced the upper bearing arm (thanks to your video). However, now I have a rubbing noise? Any suggestions?

igniter working, flame working then going out after few minutes. put in new coils, still same problem! is there a way to check the valve itself? or could it be the heat sensor? thanks
what would next step be? thanks

Hi – I really appreciate your videos.

I have the issue captioned above and it is just like the problem experienced in your video:

I have checked belt slippage/alignment and the belt switch (as was the problem above) and they both appear fine.

Any suggestions on what I should do next? BTW, I don’t have a multimeter so testing and diagnostics are as not easy as they could be.

It runs for a time but then quits and won’t heat up again til I reset it. It’s not my fuse panel, but that fuse behind the drum. I need to have this working again immediately. please help me.

dryer flame comes on turns off not drying (on and off)

My dryer is making this weird ticking noise and not starting. What is that?

I have a code 90 when I run the diagnostics from the panel. My dryer will beep 3 three times when after pressing power and then pressing the start button. The drum light is not lit but tested good. I’m thinking it’s the door switch, correct?

Do you sell parts?

Our dryer seems to be getting too hot and then shutting down. Normally I can wait and restart it to finish a load but not always. We’re on a 2nd story of a duplex and I tried checking the outside venting, but it looked clear where it exited the house. Any other thoughts? Could the hi limit fuse just be going bad? Or maybe the thermostat?

Didn’t get any voltage across the heater element terminals on my WED9470WW1 Duet dryer. Pulled wires from high limit thermostat and thermal cutoff on the heater box. Got continuity on both. The heater element had continuity as well when tested with its wires removed from the terminals. Getting 240v from the outlet. Don’t know what to would be most likely culprit to check next. On the blower housing, the fuse has continuity, the only weird thing I found is that the thermistor has a resistance reading of 14k ohms. in 70 degree room temp. Heard these should be around 12k ohm. Could this cut the heat? Or is controller or controller relay higher probability of fault? Can the controllers relay be tested? BTW best video on the topic. Thank you !

I have Fisher & Paykel Top loading Dryer.

Recently it stopped drying. A repair person came out and reset the thermostat and advised me to have the venting to the outside cleaned out. I got the venting cleaned out, then it tripped again. He came back out and removed the drum behind the lint bucket and cleaned that out along with resetting the thermostat.

The thermostat intermittently will trip. I have noticed it trips less frequently if I use timed dry vs. the sensing dry. I can reset and it will keep drying. The heat works.

I am trying to determine if it’s just the thermostat I should replace or if there is a part for the sensing functionality that should also be replaced.

Advice is appreciated.

I watched your video where u replace to top part of the inside of the door but do u have a video on how to replace the belt. Also do u have video on the washing machine that was in the video on how to replace the bearings

Can’t seem to figure out whats going on with it, checked the element, fuse, thermostat, venting, and even cleared blower housing. But won’t heat up. Any help? about ready to give up.