Appliance Type: Stove / Oven / Cooktop

I am working on a ge gas wall oven. I have replaced main control board in unit and everything works but broil.
When you set broil the unit kicks on and off with a clicking noise.
I ordered another board but the same thing happens.
I did check all wires and terminal positions on control and have it wired correctly to instructions that came with new board.
Can anyone help with this. It seems straight forward hooking up.

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We have a Dacor wall oven that was giving an F1 code within seconds of being powered up.
That is a relay circuit failure.
We replaced the relay board and the oven tested ok in the AM.
Customer called said it was fine till after 8pm that night then started beeping and giving the F1 code again.
Any advice sure would be appreciated.

Checked the relay board, no problem. Could it be the coil?

I DID NOT LOOK AT THIS STOVE, BUT I AM TOLD THAT IT WILL NOT SELF CLEAN. WHEN THE OVEN IS TURNED ON THE COIL WILL GLOW, BUT IT MAKES A CLICKING NOISE. ANY INFO WOULD BE GREAT. THANKS, TODD FROM NY.

is half of the dual broil element suppose to come on in bake mode?

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Looking to have a touch panel rebuilt as it is no longer available. Part #WB36K5120
My inquiry found a company called “Applianceboards.com” which may be located in either Georgetown or Austin TX. Is this a legit company and/or has any one had any experience with them? They did email us a phone their contact number after hours, but cannot find anything at BBB. We just had the board for this oven rebuilt and now the cancel pad is not working, programs bake only.

Thanks in advance,

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I REMOVED THE FLAME SPREADER AT THE BOTTOM OF THE OVEN AND WATCHED THE IGNITOR. THE IGNITER GLOWED AND THE BURNER LIT. ABOUT 30 SECONDS PAST AND THE BURNER WENT OUT, THEN LIT AGAIN. THE SMELL OF GAS WAS NOTICABLE WHEN THE BURNER WENT OFF AND LIT AGAIN. I CHECKED FOR GAS LEAKS IN THE PIPING AND FOUND NOTHING. MY BEST GUESS IS THAT THE IGNITOR IS GOING BAD? I REMOVED IT AND NOTICED A FRAY IN ONE OF THE WIRES, EXPOSING SOME METAL. WHAT SHOULD THE IGNITOR OHM READING BE? IS MY THINKING CORRECT? ANY INFO WOULD HELP, THANKS, TODD FROM NY.

The cooktop light on my stove would not go out when all of the burners were turned off. I found your video on fixing the switches when this happens. I was able to remove the faulty switch pretty easily thanks to your video. I am now waiting for the new switch to arrive. In the process, I have left the back panel off of the stove. I noticed last night that when I turn the switches for the burners that are still connected that they will sometimes spark. Is this normal? My fear is a fire hazard. Am I witnessing all of the switches going bad all at once? Or is this normal or possibly just dust getting burned off and once the back panel goes back on will resolve itself.

The switches do not arc or spark when not in use and it only happens when the initial turn happens. So again, is this an issue?

Thank you for your help.

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Good morning. I did not look at this stove yet, but could some one
walk me through the diagnostic steps? Thanks, Todd from ny

THIS IS SECOND TIME ASKING WHAT COULD BE PROBLEM
AND WHAT IS OHMS ON SAFTEY VALVE WOULD BE TWO PIN ON TOP AND TWO PIN ON BOTTOM
PLEASE LET ME KNOW THANKS SO MUCH

There is a fuse link in behind the control board on this model that is blown. It resembles a diode a little. I cant find this part on any drawing and was wondering if you could help me with the part number to this fuse?