Appliance Type: Washer

I have a Maytag 4000 Series Washer model# MHWE450WW01. This started about 2 weeks ago. I had an F71 error code. When I hit the power button I’d just get 3 beeps, no display. Found a Youtube video from an appliance tech who said F71 was a motor control board. Replaced the motor control board and everything seems fine until I ran a whole cycle and had wet clothes at the end. Everything seems fine except I get no high speed spin. Thought I might have got a bad board so I contacted partsimple.com and they sent me another board. That didn’t change a thing except to confirm the board was ok. I then replaced the control board. That didn’t change anything.

Here’s where I’m at now: In diagnostics it will spin at full speed with the C08 diagnostic test which tells me I don’t have a mechanical problem like a slipping belt, motor etc. During a normal wash cycle it will not spin at high speed with or without clothes in it. The door locks fine, door lock indicator is lit and door won’t open. It fills to the normal level and drains fine. Spin light comes on but the drum rotates at wash speed. It acts like a load balance problem. The drum rotates one way, stops, rotates the other, then the drain pump comes on and it tries to spin but then stops again, rotates one way then the other like it’s trying to balance the load. I can’t locate the balance sensor (if there is one). Any help would be appreciated.

Samsung top load washer – each cycle will work in the customer manually moves setting – but if left on it’s own it doesn’t go into a spin cycle and gives an E3 error code. MODEL WA456DRHDWR/AA
SERIAL Y01X5AEC401444H. After doing research we saw that the culprit could be the hall sensor (dc31-00154a), this did not solve our problem. At this point we are guessing that it could be the state or control board, but are not very confident in this diagnosis.

Problem: Washer stops during rinse cycle and makes a buzzing sound. It does drain or spin.
Washer is a Maytag MAV8000AWW (one belt drive)

E01 and F01 coming up on Maytag Maxima front load washer

Hi,
I am working on a g.e front load. Maybe about 3 years old.
I believe the drain pump is bad, but the problem is I never worked on this particular model of ge.
Normal I would unscrew the 3 screws in the back of the lid and then pop of the top cover….
But this model does not have any screws for you to remove.
There must he a special way for me to take of the top panel ??so I can disassemble the machine for repairs.
Any information helps 🙂

My Whirlpool washer is displaying a F5/E2 error code.

My Maytag washer is displaying error codes and the door will not come unlocked.

Washer gives f35 and sud error. Trap is clean, technician came and replaced the switch. Washer worked for about a month, getting f35 and SUD error again. Basket is clean. Please help.

I have a GE SPACEMAKER stackable washer/dryer. Customer complained that the washer knob broke off and that the washer is not working. When I arrived I noticed the knob from the washer side was off the potentiometer aperture handle (timer knob) resting on the washer. I tested the dryer and the dryer appeared to be working fine. I tried to start the washer to test it by turning the timer knob (which had fell off of the control panel frame bracket) and pressing start button. Not only did the washer not show any sign of life by not starting, but I tried turning the knob on the timer without the knob attached and I could not hear any “click” coming from inside the timer indicating that it was advancing to the next stage of the washing cycle.
I removed the control panel cover and noticed the timer slid out of place in its socket when it was supposed to be securely fastened to the front panel. The knob was turning but the timer was not clicking as it advanced. I tried to unplug the connector OF THE TIMER from the wires but coud not notice any discrepencies visually. Should the wires have been checked ?? continuity ? voltage ? Could I have a bad timer ? If the dryer works fine and the power is getting to the dryer and stopping when it gets to the washer could the timer be preventing this ?
Timer part # 131758600 (WRITTEN ON TIMER ITSELF)
GE Spacemaker Washer Dryer combo WSM2700DAWWW

The Maytag 2000 washer is tearing clothes when a full load is being washed. I observed a towel getting stuck between the tub and the white plastic (bellows?) Is this the right part to replace and can you give suggestions on how to replace this part. The white plastic band that circles the tub inside is well worn and looks ruff. I believe this is the bad part. Does the washer come apart from the front or the top. There is a dryer stacked on top of the dryer.

need guidance finding a video or repair diagram on site

This unit is stopping in the middle of it’s wash cycle with an “ee” error code. Any ideas on what it is before I get there to diagnose?

When I punch in this model # on any site nothing shows up

I have paperwork that indicates the resistance value should be 97 ohms, at the molex connector unplugged from the inverter. The led was blinking 4 times for a mode shifter error. I installed another mode shifter off of a machine that worked but had bad bearings. It had a reading of 63 ohms. The unit still won’t agitate, and I still have the error code. I swapped the inverter out with a known good board with no change. Do you any ideas why the mode shifter would work on one and not the other? What is the margin of error, for the resistance value, of the mode shifter coil?

I have this midea washer/dryer all in one combo unit that seems to work ok but just
not drying the clothes.

Error and diagnostic codes.

Stack washer/dryer washer won’t start, dead, no lights, dryer okay. control board fuse blown. replaced control board lights came on, tried to start, went dead, new control board fuse blown

RAN DIAGNOSTICS STARTED FILLING WENT ALL THE WAY TO C6 THEN WOULDN’T CONTINUE. I CANCELLED THE DIAGNOSTICS . ALSO WHEN DIVERTER VALVE IS ON HIGH PITCH NOISE WHEN I PULL THE WIRE IT STOPS IS THAT AN INDICATION THAT THE VALVE IS BAD.

This model has a metal hub on the shaft with six screws. When pulling up on the shaft it seems to bottom out. When you look at top of shaft there is a rubber seal and steel ring which doesn’t allow it to come out when we pull up on inner tub. The metal hub will not separate from the basket. When we put removal tool on to pry out it didn’t budge and are afraid of breaking it. Every video we watch shows guys just picking inner tub out or removing with a removal tool. Neither one works for us. Goal is to get inner tub out so we can remove debris etc out from between inner and outer tub. Is this tub just being stubborn or do we need to remove something from the bottom side?