Appliance Type: Washer

On diagnostic test all good . High spin as well. But during the cycle no high spin. Sometimes stuck too long on 13 min to end

We are servicing a Samsung front load washer that won’t close. The door latch was replaced but the door still won’t close. Latch does work, you can hear the latch lock and unlock. We’re getting an error code ed. Drain hose is fine. You can push the door and hold and the error code goes away but as soon as you let go the door comes open. Please advise.

Unit has new pressure sensor, clean working pump, clean connection at tub to pressure sensor, good wiring, good pressure hose, clean working water valves, good drain system/stand pipe. Need to know how to narrow and what electrical readings to expect at ccu. what sequence to use at ccu to verify electrical readings. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Washer over filling onrinse sometmes

My question today is for the root cause of a code 3E on a Samsung washer not spinning

Here am I following findings on the washer
Check resistance on the motor pIns red 10.8 ohms

Hall sensor resistance pins between 1-3 read
4.68 K OHMS BETWEEN 1-4 Read 5.75 M OHMS

These values did not match what my fast track values were for the hall sensor

Read DC volts being delivered to Hall since her on the board was 5.21 VDC BETWEEN PINK AMD ORANGE

However when I ran into a quick test mode I was not getting any high voltage present from the board on the red white and blue wires that go to the motor.

According to my findings does it look like I have a bad hall sensor? Or a bad main board?

Washer was making a loud squeaking noise and then stopped. Washer will fill up with water but then will do nothing. I love the videos but I have not found that addresses a washer that does not spin at all.

Sounds not draining water. Clothes are still damp.

the lid is closed but i am still getting the LO error

The washer works in any mode, until spin cycle. It will agitate, but stops every time when it gets to spin cycle. The washer was locked, stopped, and would not turn on again. What is causing this?

GOOD EVENING. I AM TOLD THAT THE WASHER DOES NOT FILL WITH ENOUGH WATER. I HAVE NEVER WORKED ON A WASHER IN A STACK AND I AM NOT SURE ON HOW TO DISASSEMBLE THE UNIT. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT, THANKS, TODD FROM NY.

This unit had an error code “PF” and a technician replaced the control board, after a couple of days the washer just died, no power whatsoever. Wondering if anybody has at suggestions.

It started when wife did load of clothes and after machine stopped everything was still wet. When I removed clothes I thought that she had it overloaded. Then checked for codes and got an F7 and an F5 code and not sure how long they were there. I Followed the proceedure in the Service Manual to clear codes and run diagnostic. Codes are now clear and not coming back but I don’t think that I am actually getting it in diagnostic mode. I can get the 88 on the screen but then nothing else happens and I also cannot even find the way to manually test. Anyway I did an ohm test on Motor all terminals at 5.9 ohms which is good. Also checked the 2 motor control wires which also checked out good at approximately 117 ohm. When doing a wash, when washer gets to point where the tub would turn It has a slight jump and then nothing. I am sure the motor is good. Also checked the ground wires and they seem okay but one of them goes to the back of tub and that whole area is rusted I get continuity at the wire but not when I touch the rusted area. I have noticed by reading all these that a lot of people have trouble with the diagnostics and that is the first thing I want to make sure that I can make happen. Thank you and hope you can answer this by what I have provided.

lid will not close

Hi
i’m not able to go in test mode and see error codes and automatic or manual test

The washer will try to shift to agitate but seems to get stuck.
It will not let me enter diagnostics so I can check the error code. What is the trick?
Is this the actuator or the motor?
Does this motor have a built in clutch or can it be charged? This is a Frigidaire

washer spins out to 8 min and pops up e3 code .possible repairs for this

GOOD MORNING. WHEN I GOT THERE THE WASHER HAD WATER IN THE TUB. I PUT THE DIAL ON SPIN AND DRAIN AND PRESSED START. AT THIS POINT FOR ABOUT 2 SECONDS I HEARD THE PUMP ENGAGE AND SOME WATER CAME THROUGH THE LINE. IT THEN STOPPED AND TRIED TO START THE SPIN CYCLE, BUT THEN IT CUT OFF. I TESTED VOLTAGE TO PUMP AND FOUND 110 VOLTS AT ALL TIMES, EVEN WHEN THE WASHER WAS NOT IN ANY CYCLE. PULLED OUT THE PUMP AND PUT 110 VOLTS TO IT AND IT WAS SPINNING WELL. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. THANKS, TODD FROM NY.

The washer just stops at 17 minutes left on all selections except bulky items. It will run the entire load on bulky items. There are no stored error codes and the unit completes the automatic diagnostic mode with no problems.

THE WASHER DOESNT SPIN. CHECKED BOARD NO VISIBLE DAMAGE, WIRING AROUND MOTOR NEAR THE BOTTOM LOOKED ALL GOOD, NO TEARS. COSTUMER SAID SOMETIMES WASHER STARTS TO FILL AFTER DRAIN CYCLE INSTEAD OF SPINNING AND FINISHING. IM THINKING PROBABLY MAIN BOARD? I KNOW THIS UNIT ALSO HAD SOME RECALS PLEASE INCLUDE DIAGNOSTIC MANUALS AND BULLETIN INFO FOR SAMSUNG WASHERS UNLESS THEY THE SAME. THANKS!!
-WA50M7450AW
-WF45N5300AV/US
-WA40J3000AW/A2

I replaced my control board 3 weeks ago, due to the buttons acting wonky like switching to CLEAN from WASH when pushing start or changing spin speed when changing the temp. After replacing, the buttons worked great, but the washer would run a cycle. It would fill some water, then the tumbler would swing one way a little bit and then the other way a little bit. Then it would stop and unlock. If you hit start again, it would start the process again and stop again. I ordered it off Ebay and thought maybe the new board was defective, so I removed and installed the old one again. Buttons still wonky, but once they stayed on WASH, the washer actually ran the complete cycle. Returned that board and ordered another one from a different source and installed it yesterday. Same result as the 1st time. I need to know why the old one will run a cycle, but the new one stops. I was able to pull a E39 code from the new board. Once again, since I had clothes that needed to be cleaned, I reinstalled the old one just so I could wash a load of clothes. I still have the new board here though. Just doesn’t make any sense to me!! Please help! The control board that I have is WH12X10468.

please please get me the service manual for this unit as i am going to replace the tranny. Please dont tell me you cannot get one???????

when I put the machine into spin it sounds like the engine of a plane taking off

Customer said no matter what size load the washer goes out of balance. She stops washer redistributes the load and after a little it is out of balance. I am not that familiar with Samsung washers. I did check the suspension rods and balance ring both are o.k.. Has there been a recall on this. The washer is about 18months old. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

SO THE UNIT WILL FILL WITH WATER ..
WHEN I OPEN THE DOOR IT WILL STOP FILLING. SO I KNOW THE LID SWITCH IS WORKING
WHEN I PUT IT TO SPIN OR AGITATE NOTHING HAPPENS. I DONT EVAN HEAR THE MOTOR TRYING TO RUN.
I CHANGED THE TIMER AND IT STILL WILL NOT WORK
I CHECKED THE MOTOR AND I AM NOT GETTING ANY POWER TO THE MOTOR
THE CAPACITOR TESTED FINE

I need service manual for this washer. Or specifically if you can provide a video or repair instruction on how to replace washer drive shaft part number WH38X24734 that will be great. Very loud and wobbling and moving all over the place when spinning. Thank you.