Brand: Whirlpool

Whirlpool Refrigerator French door bottom freezer. The unit is all iced up where the Ice maker is? How to you take the Ice maker out? It has all snap parts with screws to come out.

Evaporator and condenser fan motors running compressor running outer loop in front of door hot off and on open door light does not come on press button on control and light comes on but than goes out I suspect board is bad need video on how to replace the board and to know if I should check anything else compressor has a inverter board and when I open door switch what should my switch read when I check for continuity I do want to replace board without first being able to access the control and check board out I dont believe this has a main control board in the back correct me if am wrong

Hi,
I am troubleshooting a no LED light issue on this unit, All the LEDs work except the 5 on the roof of the refrigerator. The schematic shows that the 5 fridge roof LED’s are divided into 2 series circuits, 3 in one series and 2 in the other going back to the LED Driver board for the DC source. Both of these strings are not working, I have diagnosed that the LED Driver board is partially defective .

The problem is, it is not shown in any service literature, ANYWHERE. The visual shows it is located next to the control board along with the power supply, The only part shown in the exploded diagram is the Control board itself, Whirlpool W11161172. If you do a parts list search for LED Driver, it does not generate any hits. I am at a loss, I have check multiple sources including the Factory SM with no luck.

I need the part number for the LED Driver Board! Why is it not shown or listed anywhere? I wasted 2 hours looking!!!

Thanks 🙂
Tom
609 418 0278

Condensation back wall in refrigerator and behind ice maker

Freezer evaporator coils have no frost on them, however the fresh food is keeping temperature. I know these units are problematic with sealed systems. Which evaporator is the most common to change and what is the easiest way to tell which one needs changing, because I have seen this same situation before and it be the fresh food evaporator and I have also seen it been the freezer evaporator. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. All fans work.

Gas dryer igniter will glow for about 8-10 seconds the click and will not light. Could not find anywhere what the resistance should be on the igniter. Any suggestions on what else could cause this?

French door style fridge with freezer draw at bottom. fridge does not hold temperature (set for 32 but reads ~50F with separate thermometer). Initially, display at top (where doors close) displayed a “power outage” warning but there was no other indication that the house or that circuit had lost power at anytime. made several attempts to turn power off to fridge (at the breaker) with hope it would reset. fridge makes several different types of audible chimes, sometimes with two distinctly different chines going off at the same time. I have not been able to find anything on the internet to help put this specific model into diagnostic mode, nor do i have the cheat sheet to know what those codes mean but suspect switches at the ice dispenser console (exterior of left door) can get me into diagnostic mode. Also, i will occasionally hear a mechanical whine (very low) which could be compressor related. everything else about the failure and various chimes (one could be a high temp warning) suggests possible bad control board or power supply tripping an issue? Bottomline, would like to diagnose the problem, understand what part(s) are required to fix it and get repair instructions to swap out that part.

GOOD MORNING. THE CUSTOMER PURCHASED A NEW ICE MAKER. I DO HAVE 110 VOLTS AT THE MOLEX TO THE ICE MAKER. I INSTALLED THE NEW ICE MAKER AND JUMPED FROM L TO V AND T TO H WITH NO RESPONSE. I TESTED BETWEEN ALL TEST PORTS AND COULD NOT GET ANY VOLTAGE READING. I THEN INSTALLED THE OLD ICE MAKER AND JUMPED THE L TO V AND T TO H WITH NO RESPONSE. THEN I TESTED ACROSS THE L AND N AND GOT 110 VOLTS. PULLED THE MOLEX FROM THE ICE WATER INLET VALVE AND GOT 75 VOLTS WHEN JUMPED FROM L TO V. THESE TESTS WERE PERFORMED WITH THE FLAP AND DOOR SWITCH MADE. WHEN FREEZER DOOR IS OPEN LIGHT IS BLINK BLINK PAUSE. WHEN I CLOSED THE FLAP IT REMAINED BLINK BLINK PAUSE. NEVER BLOCKED OPTIC EYE WITH MY HAND. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. THANKS, TODD FROM NY.

To whom it may concern,
I have a whirlpool WRF757SDEM refrigerator that recently has a loud noise coming that appears to be coming from the top section. Last year I replaced the evaporator fan and thermostat as the unit has frozen up and stopped cooling. After that fan was replaced the unit was very quit and running normally.
Recently ( past 3 days) it has gotten very loud at times with a slight vibration. At times, the sound is very loud, but then it gets quieter; almost to normal levels.
The top unit is cold and maintains temperature, there isn’t any issue making ice and everything is cold and frozen in the freezer.
I am wondering if its an issue with the evaporator fan and if that needs to be replaced again.
Any and all assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Kindest regards,
Kris

I have a French door whirlpool fridge that the freezer is not cooling at all. Fresh food section is fine. There is no frost on the evaporator coil. Compressor is running to cool fresh food section.

The door on my Whirlpool range will not close properly.

Burning smell, Freezer will not get cold, Refrigerator will not get cold, Fans will not stop running.

the fridge is around 25 Fahrenheit set on low

HAVE TROUBLE PUTTING IN DIAGNOSTICS OR WHOEVER WROTE THIS MISSED A STEP FRIDGE IS TO COLD CANT
FIND A VIDEO ON THE SITE OF PREMIUM my email is garth@saparas.com

I have a code 09 when I run the diagnostics from the panel. My dryer will beep 3 three times when after pressing power and then pressing the start button. The drum light is not lit but tested good. I’m thinking it’s the door switch, correct?

Thank you!

F11 ERROR CODE—-NO TECH SHEET WITH WASHER—–ANY SUGGESTIONS?
it is giving the code within the 1st 15-20 seconds

I did not hear any clicking from the igniter I suspect that may be electronic spark module however the bake igniter works perfectly

I have 100v to evap fan motor does not run ..so I installed new control board same problem no tech sheet any idea I’m at a lost I’m think we have bad wire in wall ?

I saw the similar video on youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sn1yimizKWA

I know the drain Gromme needs to be replaced. The only doubt i have is that why did you remove the back portion to drain water? I have drained the water from the bottom however, could you please tell me the purpose of draining water by opening the back grill?

whirlpool coin op washer, model # cae2743bq0, was flashing all lights.
replaced lid switch, still all lights are flashing, nothing changed.
own has two bought at the same time.
took the control panel and board off the other washer and tried it, no luck.
but put that board back on the washer it came off of, and now it is just pumping water out and that’s all
now.
so left washer pumping non-stop
and the right washer all lights are flashing, both machines have the same model numbers,
unit are only two years old.
call or text greg at cell # 402-770-2258

WHEN I WAS FIRST CALLED THE CUSTOMER SAID THE FRIDGE WAS NOT RUNNING, BUT WOULD START IF YOU MANUALLY ROTATE THE DEFROST TIMER. I REPLACED THE DEFROST TIMER AND THEN HAD TO MANUALLY ROTATE IT TO GET THE FRIDGE TO START. IT SEEMED TO BE WORKING FINE, THEN I RECEIVED A CALL FROM THE CUSTOMER THAT THERE IS WATER LEAKING OUT OF THE FRONT OF THE FRIDGE. I RETURNED AND FOUND THE DRAIN HOSE CLEAR, BUT THE DRIP TRAY WAS PUSHED FLAT AND THE UNIT WAS LEVEL. I PULLED UP THE TRAY AND TILTED THE UNIT BACK A LITTLE. OTHER THAN THE WATER LEAKING OUT OF THE FRONT THE CUSTOMER MENTIONED THAT THERE IS CONDENSATION ON THE FRIDGE WALL THAT IS NEXT TO THE FREEZER. I WAS READING THROUGH THE PAPER WORK FOR THE NEW DEFROST TIMER AND NOTICED THAT THERE ARE DIFFERENT WAYS TO CONNECT IT. IT IS THE EXACT TIMER THAT CAME OUT SO I PUT THE MOLLEX BACK ON THE SAME WAY, BUT THIS NEW TIMER HAD A SEPARATE GROUND THAT I DID NOT HOOK UP. COULD THIS BE MAKING THE TIMER DEFROST AT QUICKER INTERVALS, AND CREATING CONDENSATION IN THE FRIDGE, OR WAS THE WATER JUST FROM THE OVER FLOW TRAY? ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. THANKS, TODD FROM NY.

Timer will not advance, Over heats, No heat at all.

I performed the callibration test as listed in the video and I got two error codes ,F-7, E-5.
could you please tell me what they mean?