Brand: Whirlpool

Whirlpool Refrigerator French door bottom freezer. The unit is all iced up where the Ice maker is? How to you take the Ice maker out? It has all snap parts with screws to come out.

Evaporator and condenser fan motors running compressor running outer loop in front of door hot off and on open door light does not come on press button on control and light comes on but than goes out I suspect board is bad need video on how to replace the board and to know if I should check anything else compressor has a inverter board and when I open door switch what should my switch read when I check for continuity I do want to replace board without first being able to access the control and check board out I dont believe this has a main control board in the back correct me if am wrong

Condensation back wall in refrigerator and behind ice maker

Freezer evaporator coils have no frost on them, however the fresh food is keeping temperature. I know these units are problematic with sealed systems. Which evaporator is the most common to change and what is the easiest way to tell which one needs changing, because I have seen this same situation before and it be the fresh food evaporator and I have also seen it been the freezer evaporator. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. All fans work.

Gas dryer igniter will glow for about 8-10 seconds the click and will not light. Could not find anywhere what the resistance should be on the igniter. Any suggestions on what else could cause this?

GOOD MORNING. THE CUSTOMER PURCHASED A NEW ICE MAKER. I DO HAVE 110 VOLTS AT THE MOLEX TO THE ICE MAKER. I INSTALLED THE NEW ICE MAKER AND JUMPED FROM L TO V AND T TO H WITH NO RESPONSE. I TESTED BETWEEN ALL TEST PORTS AND COULD NOT GET ANY VOLTAGE READING. I THEN INSTALLED THE OLD ICE MAKER AND JUMPED THE L TO V AND T TO H WITH NO RESPONSE. THEN I TESTED ACROSS THE L AND N AND GOT 110 VOLTS. PULLED THE MOLEX FROM THE ICE WATER INLET VALVE AND GOT 75 VOLTS WHEN JUMPED FROM L TO V. THESE TESTS WERE PERFORMED WITH THE FLAP AND DOOR SWITCH MADE. WHEN FREEZER DOOR IS OPEN LIGHT IS BLINK BLINK PAUSE. WHEN I CLOSED THE FLAP IT REMAINED BLINK BLINK PAUSE. NEVER BLOCKED OPTIC EYE WITH MY HAND. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. THANKS, TODD FROM NY.

Do you have more videos available for this make and model for the washer machine?
If yes can you help me locate them? thank looking forwarding hearing your response.

There is a fuse link in behind the control board on this model that is blown. It resembles a diode a little. I cant find this part on any drawing and was wondering if you could help me with the part number to this fuse?

My Whirlpool washer is taking a long time to drain.

Dryer shuts off during high heat cycle after about 10 minutes, will run on low heat just fine. The dryer will start back up immediately after it shuts itself off. I replaced the motor in this dryer a little over a year ago, to me this sounds like a motor issue, but a little confused as to why it runs on the low temp cycle. Run with the vent off as well and same results as before. Any ideas or suggestions?

I am replacing the fresh food evaporator fan. I have watched your video on a similar model. This one is a 5 door and I’m not sure how to dismantle the draws and the center adapter between the two drawers.

I need technical manual specifically to run diagnostics and enter forced cooling.

We have came across many led issues on some of these refrigerators. Some lights won’t come on and when they are replaced they still won’t work even by replacing the boards as well. Please help

GOOD MORNING. I CHANGED THE COILS, AND THE BURNER WILL NOT LITE. WHEN THE START BUTTON IS PUSHED THERE IS SOME WHAT OF A CLICK AND THEN A VERY LOUD WHINNING-BUZZING SOUND, THEN THE ELEMENT GLOWS, THEN AFTER ABOUT 10 SECONDS A SECOND CLICK, THEN IT SHUTS DOWN. IT WILL REPEAT THIS CYCLE OVER AND OVER. I HAVE CONTINUITY AT THE FLAME SENSOR AND THE IGNITER OHMED OUT AT .5, I BELIEVE, BUT NO CONTINUITY BUZZ. I THEN TOUCHED THE IGNITER SOME WHAT LIGHTLY AND IT BROKE IN TWO VERY EASILY. I HAVE A LOCAL PARTS PLACE THAT WILL TEST THE VALVE IF I TAKE IT TO HIM. I HAVE HEARD OF GAS STOVES NOT IGNITING BECAUSE THE IGNITER IS STARTING TO FAIL AND DOES NOT REACH PROPER TEMP FOR THE GAS TO FLOW, MIGHT THIS BE SIMILAR? THANKS, TODD FROM NY.

Customer brought washer said was not draining properly. When we tried washer made humming sound lid lock kicks in and out then no water comes in and nothing happens. lid switch light stays flickering