Appliance Type: Refrigerator

From what I could diagnose, I need both thermostats, but I don’t have that part number information. Do you guys?

I’m almost positive this is the control board, do you guys carry that part?

I am working on a 4 door kitchenaid refrigerator that has icemaker in the celling in refrigerator side how do you get it out , dose anybody have a service manual to share whit me MOD#KFIS29PBMS02 and SER#K33307442 help is very appreciated

The water filter is completely frozen over. the unit is still under warranty but customer called us to ask what should be done in the meantime. Looks like a thermistor is being replaced if I understood the notes correctly.

I have a Samsung refrigerator. This is a French door unit.
The back panel in the fresh food compartment was solid ice the evaporator fan blade was frozen half way up.
I pulled the plug defrosted the back took it out. Replaced the evaporator fan. Plugged it back in the display, located inside at top showed 88 on the freezer side of control and the fresh food side of control. The evaporator fan was not running. I did have both doors open about 3 hours and ran a steamer inside to defrost the back panel.
The settings will not respond at all and the fan is not running. Is there something I need to reset? Thanks In advance

I have a Samsung Refrigerator Model: RS2555SL/Xaa
Needs a new refrigerator defrost heater. When I look it up I see you have to purchase the whole evaporator to get the defrost heater (not sold separately)
Are you guys separating the defrost heater from the evaporator when it comes in and then replacing it out with the old one, or are you replacing the entire evaporator for just a simple defrost heater? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I am working on a Whirlpool WFW8400TW02. HLW 19 Initially I found long drain errors stored and the pump not running looking for power to it I found open neutral feed diagnosed CCU failure pump ohm’s 14 door also locked. Replaced ccu door remains locked no errors pump ran breifly with new ccu unplugged mi3 connector still no errors shown door locks no motor function throughout after , I replaced two ccu boards still same has anyone seen this?
Lock ohm’s 60 both ways
Interlock SW is closed
Pump 13 ohms
Polarity correct
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Condenser fan cycling on and off every 10 seconds. everything else is working fine.

I got there and found the evaporator motor bad. I also found what appears to be a bad temp sensor. Do you have information on both for me?

I went to a customers service call last week. They had a Whirlpool refrigerator and I’m checking it out and see this.
Serial tag says R134A, but on back I found sticker stating flammable refrigerant.
Can somebody explain this?

I checked everything out and this unit needs a new icemaker. Anyone have time to do a quick lookup for me? I’ll need to order it asap to get this done. Appreciate it.

I found this unit in need of a new pcb main and user interface. Problem is, I can’t find the parts available anywhere, thought maybe you’d have better luck.

last april defrost timer was replace for defrost reason drain problem did not start to about a month ago every week since drain keeps freezing causing evaporator motor not to run do to ice build up tried pitching refer back a little bit did not help

A couple of weeks ago I replaced the condenser motor and fan blade on this unit. A week later the there is a knocking noise from the compressor area. I gave the compressor a light shake and you can feel the motor hitting the sides in the compressor. I assume there is nothing that can be done short of a new compressor. The question I have is how long the unit will last. Thanks,

I found this unit to need starting components, but couldn’t find them separate from the compressor. How can I get just what I need?

Summary above is per the customer, I’m heading out there and want to take a control with me. Anybody there have the part information for me? Am pretty sure this is the issue.

GE bottom mount refrigerator section is warm freezer o.k. evap fan running damper intermittent opening. when we have it apart it opens and closes . replaced refrigerator thermistor and rear board. a head scratcher damper open when we close up ref customer calls back ref warm

Having issue with this LG made Kenmore. No tech sheet, evap fan motor is running all the time…tech was thinking that the relay on the board was bad. Any thoughts?

I cleared the defrost drain and replaced the defrost sensor thinking and hoping that would work but am still getting some water now a few days later. Am I missing something?

We nee your suggestion regarding repair of Subzero,mod.#650/F,
,freezer on the bottom,17 years old.
The problem is the drain hose broke off in the fresh food section
by the wall and we are not sure how can we replace a hose without removing
the whole unit from the cabinet .We are going to install a drain heater (add-on),but it’s pretty simple.
If someone has experience how to replace this hose without removing a fridge,
please let me know
Thank you in advance

I have a 2 drawer Subzero ref that will run for about 3 seconds and shut off. If I plug in with
top drawer unplugged unit will run and stay running until you plug the cable back in. All three
thermistors are good, evaporator was changed a year or so back and has a good frost
pattern currently. Touch pad checks good. No visible bad spots on either board.
So does anybody have any input on which of the two expensive boards is bad?

Refrigerator quits running and gets warm. Consumer hits it on the side with his hand and it starts up again and works fine for three or four days. Any thoughts as to what I should replace will be appreciated. Thank you.

The bottom section of the FF is not cooling “I assume the drawers” is not cooling properly…

How does one adjust the water fill level on this ice maker? Thank you for your replies.

This unit had an ice build up in the FF evaporator fan area. I ohmed out the heater and it was good, I replaced the thermistor and thermal fuse. I have received conflicting information that the thermistor should be moved to as high a location as possible on the evaporator lines and also that it should be moved down to the middle of the evaporator and the main board should be changed as well? The thermistor wires are very short and cannot move very far. The part number is DA32-00029Q. I’m sure there is another workable part number with longer wires. . There were no error codes. FF section had warmed up. Evaporator fan was stuck in ice.

Can this part be used on the refrigerators with plastic liners. If yes, is the wiring the same as with the first models? Also, did GE produce other models with the same water line freezing problems after discovering this problem?

Model – PSC23NSTDSS Serial – VL445258
Says refrigerator side getting warm 54 degrees. Freezer side running zero.
Refrigerator temperature normal. Fresh food 36 and freezer 0. . Stated Monday afternoon. Left door open for 3 minutes to see if unit goes into liner protection and freezer fan runs on high. Works fine. Confirm damper/fan assembly in refrigerator working. . Air return clear. Run diagnostics test. Only thing that didn’t pass was temperature control panel to dispenser board communication. That failed. Did try my test control panel I carry in place of customers panel. Same results. Failed. Don’t really understand why temperature control panel talks to dispenser board when there is nothing on temperature control panel that controls anything on dispenser board. Refrigerator door switch is on side wall. Confirmed door switch is being activated by door. When door is one inch from closing, switch turns off interior lights. Currently have door switch taped closed. Did go ahead and do the system reset. . Thermistors passed testing, but then again you never know. Also is the picture of thermistor old style? Should I maybe upgrade them?

Freezer evaporator frosted fan working , replaced main board told customer to leave ref off to defrost evaporator she did that. customer call back a few days latter refrigerator warm freezer was working fine. I stopped out to check freezer -2 degrees ref 60 . Freezer fan was not running compressor was running . Shut refrigerator off to check make sure compressor cycled off. when i turned tit back on evap fan started to run. customer told me she only left it off for 6 hours. Not sure if fan may have been frozen, called her back next day, my tech went back with a new board and replaced 2nd board he said the fan was running when he got there . Is there anything that would stop the evaporator fan from running. or is this one of the fans if it goes bad can take out the board fan was not replaced yet

Checked frost pattern today. It was basically uniform except it was slightly heaver on the last three coils. Temperature in freezer was 14 degrees and 30 degrees in the FF section. Controls were set at normal. On Jan 15th the refrigerator controls were set in the middle(normal) Twenty four hours larter the freezer temp was 21 degrees and the FF temp was at 25 degrees. The customer said it took four days for a bottle of water to freeze in the freezer. Evaporator and condenser fan motors are working normally. Damper is manual and works works properly ie opens and closes with the freezer control. Sears Technical assistance suggested suggested replacing the ADC. I’m more inclined to say the thermostat is bad. Any help is appreciated