Repair Help

My name is Roland,
Question: I am working on a Kitchen Aid dual fuel gas range MD# KDRU7893VSS03 SN:DB1375935. The issue with this unit is there’s an error code which says NTC out of Range. I have tested all fuses in the back of this unit, I have changed the sensor -W1076760, the boiler assy -9758598, the appliance manager-w10339702. Still when power up, it goes into lock out with NTC out of range, call for service.
Can anyone help with this issue please. I await your response.
Roland

Error and diagnostic codes.

How do you put this unit into a diagnostic mode ?

THANKS MATT. CAN A COMMERCIAL HEAT GUN BE USED TO SPEED UP THE PROCESS?

GOOD MORNING
REFRIGERATOR WAS TRANSPORTED LAYING ON ITS SIDE WITH DOOR TO THE PASENGER. PLACED IN HOME AND WAITED A DAY FOR EVERYTHING TO SETTLE. NOW IT WILL NOT COOL. I AM BEING TOLD THAT COMPRESSOR COMES ON. WHERE DO I START? THANKS, TODD FROM NY.

I have this double wall oven. The MW display says door. I have run into this before but those MW’s have two cartridge fuses, and one would blow. This MW only has one fuse and it is good. The door switches checked good, but I replaced them anyway, still didn’t work. Anyone have an answer or suggestion ?

I need diagnostics or repair videos, fault or error codes on troublshooting this refrigerator. Samsung Twin Cooling RF263TEAESR – Stainless Steel
RF263TEAEBC – Black
RF263TEAEWW – White

KUDS30IXBL8 – Black
KUDS30IXWH8 – White
KUDS30IXBT8 – Biscuit
KUDS30IXSS8 – Stainless Steel

Samsung fridge that has been freezing up where the air comes out by the twin cooling system in the back. Then the fridge will not keep temperature and we have to turn off the fridge and then turn back on to get it to work again.

I am looking for fault or error codes for the models below. Thanks in advance for your help
MHW6000XW – White
MHW6000XG – Granite
MHW6000XR – Red

I have a KitchenAid dishwasher.
This unit when the customer uses a heated wash or dry condensates from the water inlet on the left side of tub. The insulation blanket on the unit has a 12″ circular mold spot and the cabinet has the same size water spot. The flap in the inlet is fine. It is pretty tight in the cabinet. The unit is about 11 months old the home is also new.
The customer saw the water mark on the cabinet under the sink.
Any advice on this one sure would be appreciated.

Things freeze intermittently on the refrigerator side. We have looked upper and even quick cool dampers, all function and look ok. I know the thermistors and control are a possibility, question is has anyone specifically run into this situation for this model and what did you do about it.

I am looking for fault or error codes for the model below. Thanks in advance for your help

I am looking for fault or error codes for the models below. Thanks in advance for your help

WRF989SDAB – Black
WRF989SDAE – Black with Silver Handle
WRF989SDAF – Mono Satina Steel
WRF989SDAH – White with Silver Handle
WRF989SDAM – Stainless Steel
WRF989SDAW – White

It seems like the icemaker fill tube may have shrunk a 1/4 inch is that possible?
The icemaker fills and works okay but at the end of fill a few drop drip into freezer shelf,
Then the top auger gets ice on it and builds up high enoungh to block flex tray movement.

We have an LG dryer that is not igniting. We are getting power down to the ignitor and a good amp draw from the ignitor.
So far we have completed :
1) Replaced the ignitor and the gas valve will still not open. Ignitor has a strong glow and proper amp draw.
2) Replaced the gas valve that has the coils built in to the valve.
3) Checked for proper gas pressure up to the gas valve, the customer happens to work for the gas company.

Is there any service bulletin or recall on this unit ? I am leaning towards the main control board but would greatly appreciate any input before replacing the board. Any input is greatly appreciated.

I have an under counter ice maker and it has good water pressure to the unit but will not produce any ice. Where do I start the diagnoses ?

I have a whirlpool electric dryer. I checked all components and found one needed a timer. Then I hooked up the dryer which I know was working before and it does not run. I check my power source and have 240 volts and 240v at the terminal block of the machine. I brought the dryer home and hooked it up at my house and it runs great. I don’t understand enough about loads. Why do I show 240v but the dryer will not run? How would you check this so you don’t make a mistake and think your power source is good? Thank you

Our company looked at a GE dishwasher today The door switches were turning brown from overheating and the switch housing was melted and warped.

Found a bad pump on this and am training someone, do you guys have a video I could use, nothing came up by model number. Want him to watch the repair and then try doing the install on his own. We do so many pumps, it’ll be a good way to start him off. I normally keep some machines around to do repair work on but am out of luck on this. Figured you guys would have something. Thanks a lot!

Indicator light stays on 24/7

Apparently this unit is out of warranty, but the customer stated they called whirlpool and that they are sending them the drain kit for us to replace. Have you guys been doing these? Wondered if I should be keeping an eye out for more.

Dryer wasn’t starting, just needs the knob: WE1M654

Didn’t find a whole lot if info on this model. It’s not starting and keeps saying the door is open even when it is opened & closed repeatedly. Door is tight, seems to latch fine, the handle isn’t broken. Just won’t get going. Is this a magnetron issue or diode? I saw a lot of those repairs but am just not sure. I don’t work on these enough to know definitively. Appreciate the help.

This unit paused and quit right before the drain, but then proceeded to just slowly drain almost completely. Pump is fine, I did clear some debris from the sump area and spray arms, and ran it again to have the same issue. Disposal is clear, the punch is out, and didn’t find any obstructions from there. What am I missing?

This washer isn’t completing the final high speed spin, it seems to skip it altogether. Clothes are still coming out sopping wet. Unit drains and cycles through all the other spots but this. Initially thought maybe it was the control but it checked out, also confirmed the drain and pump were clear, as well as the bearings being ok. Customer said sometimes it pauses, and she comes in and cancels/opens the door, closes it again, and hits start and sometimes it runs right from there and spins it out for her. Any guesses? Stumping me a bit.

After finally getting the evaporator defrosted I found it needing a heater. My guys don’t stock it. Do you? Would need it right away. Appreciate you being available on a Sunday to help a few of us out in the field.

This dryer is making a horrible screeching noise that I could hear over the phone. I’m taking an idler pulley with me but what are the drum supports availability? I’m thinking I’ll need both.

Found this unit needing a new defrost system but don’t have a vendor with a decent lookup, somebody there have time to send me the part information? Need to return tomorrow or Tuesday with it. Thanks.