Repair Help

Hot air entering icemaker in one vent hole on side causing ice warm air to get in and puddle in bin causing ice to melt. Burn makes are around this vent hole as well. About every 3 weeks they will get ice. Rest of fridge is running normal.

There is no water fill at all (No Cold and Hot) and there is no error code as well.

Makes ice seldom leave and then melts and runs out onto the floor did it in error code for icemaker test drive noted in bed going to replace icemaker but I’m assuming I have a cooling issues also

what is the easy way to replace the water valve?

fill too much water into washer before stopping. It then gives a IE or 1E code. would the problem be in the control board or something else.

this washer works. recently has started to make noise in spin. if load is heavy it smells like something is burning. what are the necessary parts. can this washer be repaired without special bearing replacement tools?

Outdoor unit’s R22 refrigerant is at 85 degrees, superheat is at 80 degrees. But suction line is not cold and superheat is not blowing hot air out of fan. Indoor evaporator coil looks fine and not frozen or had condensation. Please help

The refrigerator is warm, while the freezer cools adequately and makes ice. Temperature shows over 50 degrees at top. fan was replaced after removing lower freezer insets, but temperature did not come down enough to cool refrigerator. Is there another fan in the refrigerator? The fan part number replaced at bottom is WR60X10340. I saw Youtube video that showed fan with software upgrade tool part number WR49X25197. They were speaking of this same model (DFE29JMDCES). Can the fan alone fix the problem? If not, is there another way to do the upgrade? Do you have any other suggestions?

Evaporator icing up? Can you give me some information on this unit. I don’t know if the defrost timing circuit is part of the control board? I also have no electrical schematic on this unit. It does have cal rod heater. There are probably 3 different parts that could cause this problem.

Customer ice dispenser makes a grinding noise when depressed. The ice dispenser works well without the noise.

This dryer is not coming on . I have test power and it is 240 on L1 and L2 but when i test on L1 to neutral i get 120 with is good but when i test L2 to N i am get 240 but only when dryer is plug up to wall plug . Test at wall plug is fine 240 L1 to L2 and 110 for L1 to N and L2 to N 110
This is crazy it has a new main board installed .

What do you thank mite be the cause that is keeping the dryer for working

Freezer is not making ice. We have replaced the ice maker, ice level boards and auger motor. Ran everything threw manual harvest and it filled with water, heater came on on icemaker and in the full tube. The temperature is set to -2. We have 14.7 volts to the optic boards. 120v to the icemaker. It has dumped ice 1 time on its own since everything was replaced 3 weeks ago. Both door switches are good and both are making good contact when the door is closed. Am I missing something? Is there anything else it could possibly be? Maybe a bad icemaker from factory not common but possible. And I do have the tech sheet, I have been threw it 3 or 4 times. Please email me back at. bryan@drappliances.com

Compressor won’t run. No power to compressor.Do you think the computer board is bad or the thermostat dial control?

I have ge refrigerator and the fresh food section its warm ,and the damper some times opens and another time dit not,,freezer its over freezing ,i change the damper and the sensor and still not responding,,please hepl

the motor is having a hard time turning Evan with out the belts on
i believe i need a new motor.
can you please provide me with info on how to change it

Need service manual and tech sheet

I was just wondering if you could help me out. I’m trying to determine if the gas sprinkles are bad on my dryer. How do I test them?

This microwave keeps blowing fuses then it will make nothing appear in the display. It only blows the fuse when the heat kicks on. Any other functions doesnt have an issue, but using the heat will blow the fuse.

I press start button but it doesn’t start, how can enter into diagnostic mode in this unit.?

I replaced the whole timer because the thermostat was damaged but now even with new timer including mother board and thermostat lights are flickering and timer is making a ticking sound and it doesn’t start

I would like to know the best way for installing a water inlet valve DA62-04027A
Thank You

SO THE UNIT WILL FILL WITH WATER ..
WHEN I OPEN THE DOOR IT WILL STOP FILLING. SO I KNOW THE LID SWITCH IS WORKING
WHEN I PUT IT TO SPIN OR AGITATE NOTHING HAPPENS. I DONT EVAN HEAR THE MOTOR TRYING TO RUN.
I CHANGED THE TIMER AND IT STILL WILL NOT WORK
I CHECKED THE MOTOR AND I AM NOT GETTING ANY POWER TO THE MOTOR
THE CAPACITOR TESTED FINE

no water or ice disp and light

My dryer runs and heats up as expected in timed modes. However, in REGULAR mode (or automatic mode), it runs normal too, but the heat stops “heating” after about 5 minutes of being turned on. The Dryer LED indicator still shows it is drying with heat. It hasn’t even entered the cool mode yet. The clothes do not dry completely.

I have replaced the 4″ vent duct with a new clean duct. I cleaned and vacuumed the inside of the dryer too, including internal duct parts. Air blasted the blower blades. I removed the plastic filter housing and pressure washed the insides perfectly clean. Air flow is very plentiful. Looks brand new. Since I do HVAC as a living, I checked the following components: Radiant sensor, Thermostat (gas flame), Thermal fuse, Thermistor and Thermostat (dryer side). I cleaned all of them properly.

My conclusion is, that the thermistor (reading 10K ohms at room temperature) could be bad since I do not know for sure what it is supposed to read at different temperatures and it is a sensor that is directly exposed to the elements inside the dryer. I paid special attention on cleaning it, suspecting that it may have a bi-metal surface in contact with lint and moisture.

My other concern is the two “moisture sensors” (cathodes?). They look clean (and I wiped them down with water and a clean cloth) and I made sure that the blue wires are not loose when re-attaching them. How can two pieces of clean metal go bad? They look like stainless steel. To narrow the problem down, I thought about jumping the two blue wires, by-passing the moisture sensor plates to simulate a constant presence of moisture, but didn’t want to do any possible damage. My second thought was to place a wet sponge securely across the two plates to see if any improvement is noticed during a test run.

Lastly, the unlikely problem could be the electronics within the circuit board.

What do I need to do to positively find out what the problem is so I can fix the dryer?
Your reply is deeply appreciated.
Regards, Patrick Kieran.

Replaced belt, idler, and squeaky rear bearings first time.. Costumer called me back out two days after initial repair with same complaint.. I greased the stubs for front bearings, replaced front bearings, and replaced rear stubs. Is the costumer overloading? Is the motor possibly spinning too fast? What could be causing the issue to come back? Could it possibly be the motor?
(Lost actual model number the one I entered is same dryer design)

How do I get the tub out of this washer