Repair Help

GOOD MORNING. I AM TOLD THE DRYER RUNS FOR ABOUT 15 MINUTES THEN MAKES A LOUD BUZZING SOUND THEN STOPS THE CYCLE. THE DRYER DOES HEAT DURING THAT TIME. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. ALSO, THE DRYER WASHER STACK IS LOCATED IN A CLOSET IN FRONT OF NEW TILE, IS THIS REPAIR DOABLE WITH OUT MOVING THE UNIT? THANKS, TODD FROM NY.

Customer complaint is the washer has increased spin speed in the last week or two
Spinning too fast

The dryer belt on the Samsung dryer comes off about every 2 or 3 months. I checked the pulleys including motor pulley and belt tension pulley and I see no problem with them. The drum rollers look good and are not worn and the inner drum seems to be fine. I asked the customer if they were turning the drum counterclockwise when they take the clothes out. They said no. I also asked if they were overloading the dryer. They said no. THe dryer is 2 to 3 years old. Any suggestions? Thanks, Ray

The machine is not working properly. According to the customer. It worked fine for mr, however the lid lock didn’t lock during the wash cycle.

oven won’t hold temperature , f7 error code

Hello, can you send me the tech sheet for this fridge I want to run the test cycle. is there a place I can get this sheet without ask you every time?

does not dispense water
does not dispense ice

PA020047 Replaced spark module on numerous Viking ranges and like one or two a month randomly die and stop working completely. Have bought them from numerous sources (speedy parts, reliable parts, eBay, Amazon, allvikingparts etc) online including the whirlpool replacement which is an exact replica and even that one has died on me. Some last a week, some several months before I get a callback. All the new ones seem to be made by RobertShaw and not Ivensys like the old ones not sure if they’re all the same manufacturers or not.

The unit has a linear compressor. I have no experience with a linear. Does it have a separate controller? or does the main control broad operate it. The compressor was receiving voltage and it was drawing current. The unit is 2 years old. Or do I need to evacuate the Freon and recharge, and look for a leak? Thanks for any help.

Hello I was diagnosing and Samsung side-by-side model Rs263tdpn for ice build up on REFRIGERATOR SIDE not allowing airflow I can hear the fan running but there’s no air moving but I did see ice so I am assuming there’s Ice blocking the air. I ran the unit into a diagnostic FORCED DEFROST MODEto check for defrost issue first. According to my fast track I forced the refrigerator section into defrosting checked my voltage on the control board and had voltage coming out at 120 V supply the defrost heater for the refer. Also check my current and had about a 1.16 Amp which does correspond with the resistance that I also checked there was was a little low 60 ohms. I also check the drain lines and clean those in the back of the unit. But what is puzzling me is when I Forced the defrost I still CAN NOT get 120 V out the board supplying the freezer heater I’m not sure if I have the right fast track that’s allowing me to check the freezer even though ITS NOT the nature of the complaint I’m giving the unit A thorough diagnosis. I still need to return to check the drain line to see if it may need a metal clip. But what I am used to seeing is when I force this into defrost that I can see if I have amp draw for both refrigerator and freezer defrost heaters , is there another button besides the freeze but that would allow me to energize both heaters or is there something possibly going on with the board? By the way I still have to check the temperature sensor inside the refer I have not done that yet

I am working on a Samsung washer that has two washers. Its a 2017 front loader with a small top loader washer. The front loader needs its gasket replaced, I would like to know how you disassemble the lid to get to the main controller?

Homeowner said that a technician came out previously because the display was blank and the technician the display board.
However when you put in the new board it displayed 555 on the freezer section and 999 on the refrigerator section.
Everything is working fine the unit is freezing and cooling however the buttons on the panel are not functioning.
Meaning I cannot change the temperature to anything I cannot shut the unit off besides for unplugging the unit.
I did on plug unit for quite a few minutes hoping that it would reset the control but it did not it returns to the same display

Hello my question today is with the Samsung dryer looks like it’s the dual element style will run for 3-5 seconds and then shut off. If the power is turned off and restarted on the unit it would start again for another 3-5 seconds and then shut off but if it’s press to start without powering off the unit it will not start again unless it’s powered off. This seems to happen in any mode whether it’s timed or auto. The unit is only about two years old I don’t think it’s running long enough for that motor to even overheat within 3-5 seconds also the unit is that even running long enough to even start to warm up in the 3 to 5 second window.

I would just like to know what to suspect at this point? To check the relay on the board to see if it’s open or is this a known issue ? I have not seen the Samsung dryer do this before

water presssure switch working but always 120 on the wire for no o water switch. dont have any diagram or nothing to follow.
motor controller board changed already but still not working

The user interface on this oven will not work at all. Acts completely dead. No clock display, and none of the buttons work, unless you turn any of the burners on. Then the touch pads work correctly. Then you can set the oven to a temperature and it will say preheat for about 5 seconds then the display goes dead again. One more thing the burners never actually heat up when you turn them on and if you turn the burner off during any of this the screen goes dark and acts like it has no power.

it makes little humming noise when we use the boost mode everywhere we put the cookware is this normal? or need to be replaced parts ?

Kenmore top load washer, at end of cycle clothes are twisted around agitator.

so they say the dryer will go off mid cycle.
I checked the motor by letting it run and turning it back on and off and on a d it restarts no problem.
what may I be missing?

I never worked on this refrigerator before. I saw that the display board inside the ref. section had no power to it and when you press the power bottom it flashes and turns off and flashes every 20 seconds. Besides that board is there any other issues I should be aware. Please help

I have a coustmer that has a ice maker that keeps frezzing sears came to her house when it was still under warranty and told her to defrost ref and it would fix itself so she took all her food to next door nabors and defrostrd it it lasted 6 months and did it again so she went to nabors and asked if she could leave food and defrosted it again but this time it only lasted about 3 weeks she is very upset with sears and hopes that they go out of business soon

HOW DO I TROUBLESHOOT THIS? I SUSPECT BAD WATER VALVE. NO WATER IN TUB AND COMING UP WITH U6 ERROR CODE. THANKS.

the flame will ignite however the the flame seems to be going out after 5 sec. i checked the vet for airflow and it is good.
i do not see any coils on the unit that i can replace

Parts break down of unit.

This unit is on city water and the city flushed the line and muddy water stopped up the filter. The customer replaced the filter and that is when the ice maker production almost stopped. I performed the harvest test and the water valve test and replaced the valve part # wpw10341329. I retested the water valve and it turned on and off OK. The nest day the customer called and said it still only made about 4 cubes. Does the water valve fill test deliver the precise amount of water in the test mode? What else can I test or do?

Customer replaced water filter, then valve. Still leaking from dispenser.

The washer won’t spin at all when ran through the cycle. Only if some water is allowed to drain and then the washer is stopped and started again, it will spin. Or if the washer is pumping but not spinning and the agitate/spin speed knob is turned from fast/fast to slow/slow the basket will start to spin. We have changed the transmission, clutch , and coupling and still no luck. I can look under and see that the clutch is not spinning at all except for when the water is drained first, so the clutch is not slipping. Would this be the motor or the spin speed selector, or timer?

REFRIGERATOR IS LEAKING WATER FROM INSIDE AT THE TOP SELF. ATTEMPT TO OPEN THE FREEZER COVER WE FOUND FROZEN ICE WATER INSIDE THE WALL OF THE FREEZER , WE DEFROSTED AND CLEANED THE ICE BUT IT STILL LEAKING THE SAME . COULD YOU PLEASE TELL ME IF WE NEED TO CHANGE ANY PART TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM.

I am coming in behind a technician that has been working on this for the past month. He changed the door switches out, no idea what else. All 4 switches test good. Call tech support and they said according to the service manual this model should only have three switches. But all four switches are wired up. I can’t find the service manual can you send it to me. Thanks

complaint, only portions of numbers light up. Oven works ok. If you set it for 325F , part of the 3 & 2 is not lite up. Whats going on?? Is this some type of error code??