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hi…i have a ge top load washer …it will not start..dead…i thought maybe the gfi plug…but i plugged it into another source and it still will not start….i did reset the gfi and when i plugged it back in i heard a pop…..not good i know, but i do not know where to start to check it out…..is it fused?? or do you think something else is blown?

this is what i found elsewhere?? just an fyi…not sure what to think…

Cause 1 Thermal Fuse

If the washer overheats, the thermal fuse will blow. If the line fuse blows, the washer won’t start. To determine if the thermal fuse is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the fuse does not have continuity, replace it. In addition, you should investigate and resolve the problem that caused the fuse to blow. If you don’t resolve the underlying issue, the new fuse will blow too.

Cause 2 Main Control Board

The main control board might be defective. However, the main control board is rarely at fault for this symptom. Before replacing the main control board, first check all of the more commonly defective parts.

  • Guest asked 5 years ago
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unit makes a grrrrr sound while agitating. only does it when the basket attempts to turn left, it tries to turn left makes grrr noise ,won’t turn, but will turn to the right just fine, drains fine and spins fine no noises in drain or spin. any ideas? thanks

  • mrfixit asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
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Hi!
The problem is the following:
1. After turning on of a refrigerator, it works for ~2 hours, temp. goes down to -20 and +5 in freezer and cooling chamber, compressor stops
2. Then, after 10-15 minutes, it tries to start for 8-10 seconds, producing loud clicks and then stops. Freezer fan is working all the time.
3. Temp. goes up to +10 in both cameras, producing A1 or A2 alert.
If I give him a rest for 4-5 hours, this cycle repeats.
But some times (I don’t know why) this scheme breaks – compressor works (normally?), but temp. in cooling chamber rises up +10, meanwhile temp. in freezer drops to -26-27.
Thus, there is strange behavior – sometimes it seems to make vacuum in freezer, after the door is closed.

  • Anton asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
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1k views

are you sure your video for ice maker removal is complete?

  • Guest asked 3 years ago
  • last active 3 years ago
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Hi thanks for your video on how to replace my ice maker it worked great. However my ice maker still does not make ice. It seems to cycle one time and then quit. So if I reset it it may make one tray and that’s all. Same results with the old ice maker I replaced. Any ideas?

  • Guest asked 5 years ago
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Hi – I really appreciate your videos.

I have the issue captioned above and it is just like the problem experienced in your video:

I have checked belt slippage/alignment and the belt switch (as was the problem above) and they both appear fine.

Any suggestions on what I should do next? BTW, I don’t have a multimeter so testing and diagnostics are as not easy as they could be.

  • Bret asked 6 years ago
  • last active 3 years ago
1 vote
1k views

Ice filter not changed in two years and existing small amount of cubes are small.

What is the method to cycle ice maker and perform test:

I will assume I have to fix a defrost thermostat/thermistor assembly. I need to be able to test and disassemble freezer back panel and ice maker Dissasembly.

  • Guest asked 3 years ago
  • last active 3 years ago
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igniter working, flame working then going out after few minutes. put in new coils, still same problem! is there a way to check the valve itself? or could it be the heat sensor? thanks
what would next step be? thanks

  • Stanya asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
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2k views

re: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-N39ZXZTWwc

Hi Sean, Your video, referenced above, worked perfectly with my machine. All of the diagnostics presented no problems, however, I felt that my machine took longer to drain than yours did in the video; but that’s the problem with my machine: my clothes won’t spin out on most cycles. I usually have to run my laundry through 2-3 “Drain & Spin” cycles before the clothes are spun out sufficiently enough to put in the dryer. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Terri

  • Terri Myers asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
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THIS IS SECOND TIME ASKING WHAT COULD BE PROBLEM
AND WHAT IS OHMS ON SAFTEY VALVE WOULD BE TWO PIN ON TOP AND TWO PIN ON BOTTOM
PLEASE LET ME KNOW THANKS SO MUCH

  • Guest asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
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First, your subzero refrige coil repair video is great!!

We have two Subero units with the 2 compressors in a tray. The 700 series and also a 427 wine cooler with lower drawers.

These units are a nightmare to work on due to limited access.

Since there is nothing obvious about how one might be able to ever get to the back compressor for service, a video would be a huge help.

Are your tech people familiar with these units with the tray, and would they consider a video?

If not, is there anyone there who I could talk to on the phone about the tray style subzeros?

Thanks

  • ernie asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
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2k views

My fridge isn’t cooling. The evaporator is only frosted on about the top 1″ of the evaporator. I’m aware that the evaporators are notorious for leaking. How do I locate the leak? Will a leak that small show up with a bubble type solution, or do I use a sniffer?
When it comes time to evacuate the system, I have manifold gauges, but they’re set up for automotive R134a. What are the correct fittings for the R12 system? It looks like 1/4″ flare, but I can’t tell for sure. In the automotive world the low and High side have different size fittings, but on the fridge they look to be the same.

Thanks,
Don

  • Don Coulter asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
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2k views

My Amana frig & freezer (model#ACD2234HRB) were both warm, although fan would still run. After hearing a clicking & humming sound.The information I found noted that it was more than likely a bad relay/starter/overload then compressor. So I replaced the starter relay/overload/capacitor(?), part#W10613606 . After replacing it was making the same sound and clicking on and off, also still no cooling to the freezer or frig. But after pulling out the relay to check connections, I noticed the relay/overload was hot to the touch. I don’t have a volt meter to check the compressor or parts. Bad part?

I ordered a new part, just in case it was bad. The same thing, happens hums ,clicks on and off, repeats itself. Will not get compressor running. Relay/overload is hot to touch. Don’t have a volt meter to check compressor.

  • ROBERT asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
0 votes
1k views

Good day My Name is Roland. We are working on a dryer LG and need some help.
The unit will not heat well, we change the gas valve, the pilot valve comes on, but will not start full heat. The drum still rotates and we are getting no error codes. Do you have access to a wiring diagram for this unit or suggestions as to what is going on. Your help is appreciated.
Roland

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42k views

Have E 22 fault code which I know is the fresh food fan. Problem is code will not reset and nothing else will start up on the unit. Can here the control board click but compressor never cuts on. Any ideas?

  • Guest asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
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Whirlpool Refrigerator French door bottom freezer. The unit is all iced up where the Ice maker is? How to you take the Ice maker out? It has all snap parts with screws to come out.

  • Guest asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
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My fridge stopped working after our neutral line in the house was severed blowing most appliances not on protectors. I replaced the control board hoping it would fix it like my stove but not so.
Reprogramed to code 12 and the board is working correctly fan comes on but make a chugging sound (did that when it worked right) but no compressor. I looked at the wiring diagram and see a relay for the compressor, could this be it or is there another fuse or issue I may have. How do I trouble shoot this from here? Or is my fridge beyond repair?

  • Drew asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
0 votes
145 views

Have 14 vdc at user interface

  • user asked 2 months ago
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After this last wash, the “Control Locked” light came on my washer. We have unplugged, to try to reset but to no avail. what is the matter with my washer? Please help. Mine is a Whirlpool Duet Washer with the above model #. The dryer is fine but my washer….. There is no error code just the light

  • Desiree asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
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2k views

I have had two compressors this week that would not start. I usually place a 3n1 on them to test them and then replace the OEM start device. On these two, one a frigidaire and the other a Jenn-air, the OEM parts would not start the compressors. I ended up leaving the 3n1 kits on them. Is this the only option short of replacing the compressors? I don’t do sealed system work. Thank you in advance.

  • Danny S asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
0 votes
8k views

Panasonic Inverter Microwave, Model: NN-SD277BR

Model is fairly beefy (1100W) over-the-range (OTR) style, with venting slots along upper edge.

Ran fine for 5 years. Boiled some water on the stove for pasta, so front face of microwave was moist with condensation. Started microwave and immediately started to spark from upper right side, could see it through the venting slot right above control panel. Electrical burning smell. Thought it was shorting due to moisture from the boiling water. Stopped it after about 3 seconds and ran the exhaust fan on Turbo mode for about an hour. Worked fine after that for about 3 weeks.

Happened again today after about 10 seconds. Smelly smoke filled the kitchen. Stopped it and opened all the windows, lit candles, and ran the fan again. Lights all work, did not trip the main fuse. Picture showing microwave follows. Sparking was seen visually through the venting slots above the word “Panasonic”: https://www.dropbox.com/s/jkeiezzf9u7i8z2/20141221_111315.jpg?dl=0

Expensive microwave to only last 5 years. My parents old 600W Kenmore is getting on 30 years now and works perfectly.

  • Paul asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
0 votes
4k views

I have a Maytag 4000 Series Washer model# MHWE450WW01. This started about 2 weeks ago. I had an F71 error code. When I hit the power button I’d just get 3 beeps, no display. Found a Youtube video from an appliance tech who said F71 was a motor control board. Replaced the motor control board and everything seems fine until I ran a whole cycle and had wet clothes at the end. Everything seems fine except I get no high speed spin. Thought I might have got a bad board so I contacted partsimple.com and they sent me another board. That didn’t change a thing except to confirm the board was ok. I then replaced the control board. That didn’t change anything.

Here’s where I’m at now: In diagnostics it will spin at full speed with the C08 diagnostic test which tells me I don’t have a mechanical problem like a slipping belt, motor etc. During a normal wash cycle it will not spin at high speed with or without clothes in it. The door locks fine, door lock indicator is lit and door won’t open. It fills to the normal level and drains fine. Spin light comes on but the drum rotates at wash speed. It acts like a load balance problem. The drum rotates one way, stops, rotates the other, then the drain pump comes on and it tries to spin but then stops again, rotates one way then the other like it’s trying to balance the load. I can’t locate the balance sensor (if there is one). Any help would be appreciated.

  • Guest asked 5 years ago
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The temperature in the freezer at 17 degrees
I cleaned the coils and I feel cold air blowing inside the freezer as well

  • zelik123 asked 4 years ago
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Just looking for any service pointers ,, videos ,, wiring diagrams and diagnostics for this icemaker ..

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760 views

GOOD MORNING. THE CUSTOMER PURCHASED A NEW ICE MAKER. I DO HAVE 110 VOLTS AT THE MOLEX TO THE ICE MAKER. I INSTALLED THE NEW ICE MAKER AND JUMPED FROM L TO V AND T TO H WITH NO RESPONSE. I TESTED BETWEEN ALL TEST PORTS AND COULD NOT GET ANY VOLTAGE READING. I THEN INSTALLED THE OLD ICE MAKER AND JUMPED THE L TO V AND T TO H WITH NO RESPONSE. THEN I TESTED ACROSS THE L AND N AND GOT 110 VOLTS. PULLED THE MOLEX FROM THE ICE WATER INLET VALVE AND GOT 75 VOLTS WHEN JUMPED FROM L TO V. THESE TESTS WERE PERFORMED WITH THE FLAP AND DOOR SWITCH MADE. WHEN FREEZER DOOR IS OPEN LIGHT IS BLINK BLINK PAUSE. WHEN I CLOSED THE FLAP IT REMAINED BLINK BLINK PAUSE. NEVER BLOCKED OPTIC EYE WITH MY HAND. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. THANKS, TODD FROM NY.

  • TODD asked 3 years ago
  • last active 3 years ago
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f3 e2 error when you use the micro I replaced the erc because there was no display now I get this code and I already checked sensor I was thinking about installing another erc

  • Guest asked 5 years ago
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What would make one of the hot surface lights on the stove top stay on even the the burner isn’t hot?

  • Guest asked 5 years ago
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Customer said that ” Feezer works fine. Its cold in there but the refrigerator is warm. ” I have handled this symptom before on other manufacturers but dont want to assume same cause. Usually frost build up in evaporator coils in freezer section which constricts airflow to fridge section. Should I test defrost heater before testing defrost thermostat or defrost control ?

Kenmore fridge

Model Number
106.57036601
What have you tried so far?
Customer said that ” Feezer works fine. Its cold in there but the refrigerator is warm. ” I have handled this symptom before on other manufacturers but dont want to assume same cause. Usually frost build up in evaporator coils in freezer section which constricts airflow to fridge section. Should I test defrost heater before testing defrost thermostat or defrost control ?

Refrigerator Kenmore
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semperfi asked 3 days ago
Answers (1)
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Hello
You need to check first if their is a heavy even frost build up on the coil. Then next do a continuity test on the heater. If the heater has continuity, then check the defrost thermostat. If the heater and therm. are good then replace the adaptive defrost control.
Information Links
106.57036601 Manual Sears refrigerator | Adaptive Defrost control | 4388932 Defrost control video

  • Guest asked 4 years ago
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I watched your video regarding washer not draining. It shows instructions on how to remove the drum, however the drum I am trying to remove is stuck, Ive tried what your video says and im not sure if I missed anything because no matter what I do, it will not budge. Any suggestions

  • sean asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
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