0 votes
2k views

hi…i have a ge top load washer …it will not start..dead…i thought maybe the gfi plug…but i plugged it into another source and it still will not start….i did reset the gfi and when i plugged it back in i heard a pop…..not good i know, but i do not know where to start to check it out…..is it fused?? or do you think something else is blown?

this is what i found elsewhere?? just an fyi…not sure what to think…

Cause 1 Thermal Fuse

If the washer overheats, the thermal fuse will blow. If the line fuse blows, the washer won’t start. To determine if the thermal fuse is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the fuse does not have continuity, replace it. In addition, you should investigate and resolve the problem that caused the fuse to blow. If you don’t resolve the underlying issue, the new fuse will blow too.

Cause 2 Main Control Board

The main control board might be defective. However, the main control board is rarely at fault for this symptom. Before replacing the main control board, first check all of the more commonly defective parts.

  • Guest asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
2k views

unit makes a grrrrr sound while agitating. only does it when the basket attempts to turn left, it tries to turn left makes grrr noise ,won’t turn, but will turn to the right just fine, drains fine and spins fine no noises in drain or spin. any ideas? thanks

  • mrfixit asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Hi!
The problem is the following:
1. After turning on of a refrigerator, it works for ~2 hours, temp. goes down to -20 and +5 in freezer and cooling chamber, compressor stops
2. Then, after 10-15 minutes, it tries to start for 8-10 seconds, producing loud clicks and then stops. Freezer fan is working all the time.
3. Temp. goes up to +10 in both cameras, producing A1 or A2 alert.
If I give him a rest for 4-5 hours, this cycle repeats.
But some times (I don’t know why) this scheme breaks – compressor works (normally?), but temp. in cooling chamber rises up +10, meanwhile temp. in freezer drops to -26-27.
Thus, there is strange behavior – sometimes it seems to make vacuum in freezer, after the door is closed.

  • Anton asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
989 views

are you sure your video for ice maker removal is complete?

  • Guest asked 2 years ago
  • last active 2 years ago
0 votes
4k views

Hi thanks for your video on how to replace my ice maker it worked great. However my ice maker still does not make ice. It seems to cycle one time and then quit. So if I reset it it may make one tray and that’s all. Same results with the old ice maker I replaced. Any ideas?

  • Guest asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
6k views

Hi – I really appreciate your videos.

I have the issue captioned above and it is just like the problem experienced in your video:

I have checked belt slippage/alignment and the belt switch (as was the problem above) and they both appear fine.

Any suggestions on what I should do next? BTW, I don’t have a multimeter so testing and diagnostics are as not easy as they could be.

  • Bret asked 5 years ago
  • last active 2 years ago
1 vote
1k views

Ice filter not changed in two years and existing small amount of cubes are small.

What is the method to cycle ice maker and perform test:

I will assume I have to fix a defrost thermostat/thermistor assembly. I need to be able to test and disassemble freezer back panel and ice maker Dissasembly.

  • Guest asked 3 years ago
  • last active 3 years ago
0 votes
2k views

After this last wash, the “Control Locked” light came on my washer. We have unplugged, to try to reset but to no avail. what is the matter with my washer? Please help. Mine is a Whirlpool Duet Washer with the above model #. The dryer is fine but my washer….. There is no error code just the light

  • Desiree asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
2k views

igniter working, flame working then going out after few minutes. put in new coils, still same problem! is there a way to check the valve itself? or could it be the heat sensor? thanks
what would next step be? thanks

  • Stanya asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
2k views

re: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-N39ZXZTWwc

Hi Sean, Your video, referenced above, worked perfectly with my machine. All of the diagnostics presented no problems, however, I felt that my machine took longer to drain than yours did in the video; but that’s the problem with my machine: my clothes won’t spin out on most cycles. I usually have to run my laundry through 2-3 “Drain & Spin” cycles before the clothes are spun out sufficiently enough to put in the dryer. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Terri

  • Terri Myers asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
2k views

THIS IS SECOND TIME ASKING WHAT COULD BE PROBLEM
AND WHAT IS OHMS ON SAFTEY VALVE WOULD BE TWO PIN ON TOP AND TWO PIN ON BOTTOM
PLEASE LET ME KNOW THANKS SO MUCH

  • Guest asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
1k views

First, your subzero refrige coil repair video is great!!

We have two Subero units with the 2 compressors in a tray. The 700 series and also a 427 wine cooler with lower drawers.

These units are a nightmare to work on due to limited access.

Since there is nothing obvious about how one might be able to ever get to the back compressor for service, a video would be a huge help.

Are your tech people familiar with these units with the tray, and would they consider a video?

If not, is there anyone there who I could talk to on the phone about the tray style subzeros?

Thanks

  • ernie asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
2k views

My fridge isn’t cooling. The evaporator is only frosted on about the top 1″ of the evaporator. I’m aware that the evaporators are notorious for leaking. How do I locate the leak? Will a leak that small show up with a bubble type solution, or do I use a sniffer?
When it comes time to evacuate the system, I have manifold gauges, but they’re set up for automotive R134a. What are the correct fittings for the R12 system? It looks like 1/4″ flare, but I can’t tell for sure. In the automotive world the low and High side have different size fittings, but on the fridge they look to be the same.

Thanks,
Don

  • Don Coulter asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
2k views

My Amana frig & freezer (model#ACD2234HRB) were both warm, although fan would still run. After hearing a clicking & humming sound.The information I found noted that it was more than likely a bad relay/starter/overload then compressor. So I replaced the starter relay/overload/capacitor(?), part#W10613606 . After replacing it was making the same sound and clicking on and off, also still no cooling to the freezer or frig. But after pulling out the relay to check connections, I noticed the relay/overload was hot to the touch. I don’t have a volt meter to check the compressor or parts. Bad part?

I ordered a new part, just in case it was bad. The same thing, happens hums ,clicks on and off, repeats itself. Will not get compressor running. Relay/overload is hot to touch. Don’t have a volt meter to check compressor.

  • ROBERT asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
1k views

Good day My Name is Roland. We are working on a dryer LG and need some help.
The unit will not heat well, we change the gas valve, the pilot valve comes on, but will not start full heat. The drum still rotates and we are getting no error codes. Do you have access to a wiring diagram for this unit or suggestions as to what is going on. Your help is appreciated.
Roland

0 votes
37k views

Have E 22 fault code which I know is the fresh food fan. Problem is code will not reset and nothing else will start up on the unit. Can here the control board click but compressor never cuts on. Any ideas?

  • Guest asked 5 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
1k views

Whirlpool Refrigerator French door bottom freezer. The unit is all iced up where the Ice maker is? How to you take the Ice maker out? It has all snap parts with screws to come out.

  • Guest asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
4k views

My fridge stopped working after our neutral line in the house was severed blowing most appliances not on protectors. I replaced the control board hoping it would fix it like my stove but not so.
Reprogramed to code 12 and the board is working correctly fan comes on but make a chugging sound (did that when it worked right) but no compressor. I looked at the wiring diagram and see a relay for the compressor, could this be it or is there another fuse or issue I may have. How do I trouble shoot this from here? Or is my fridge beyond repair?

  • Drew asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
2k views

NOTE: I placed two black lines on my tub and agitator to observe individual movement.

Initial observations of the Problem:

My top load washer “roared” in either the rinse/spin and completed the complete cycle. (I should have paid better attention to detail.) In the 2nd rinse the washer stopped with water in the tub. I noticed a burning smell and the motor went into thermal shutdown. As I removed the V-belt I noticed much black rubber from the belt( V-belt track was cut). The water pump pulley spun with great difficulty. When I tested the transmission via spinning the transmission pulley counter clockwise (CCW) the tub spun CCW. When I spun the transmission pulley clockwise (CW) the agitator moved CW, however I don’t know it is agitating since I’m doing this task myself.

I believe the water pump pulley bearing cause a lockup such that the V-belt burned rubber. The electric motor recovered from thermal shutdown and turned on after allowing it to cool and with the V-belt removed.

Questions:

1) If the transmission pulley is spun CW what should be seen? Should the agitator spin around the 360 degrees? Would the agitator spin “X” degrees and then restart?

2) Could there be something else wrong with the agitator if it spins and doesn’t agitate?

3) What is the best way to check thrust bearing when the pulley is all black and I don’t see the “markers” the new translucent transmission pulleys contain?

4) Is it possible to just replace the water pump bearing?

Summary:

I know the belt and water pump need fixing or replacing. Questions #1and #2 are the most important since if the transmission is smoked there is a big cost. If you can provide answers to the all questions great?

Thanks in advance,

JP

  • JP asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
2k views

About 1.5 weeks ago our freezer section started warming up, to the point where some things were frozen and others weren’t. We cleaned things up from the vents and adjusted the settings but it got worse, to the point where it wasn’t close to freezing a couple days ago, which is when I got serious about finding what was happening.

I took the back off and found the compressor fan had an obstruction which I removed (poor mouse, I have no idea how he got in the house as we’ve never seen any before), it span right up and I figured everything would be fine after that. Things were quite warm/hot near the fan but cooled off quickly after the fan was working. The fan spins fast and has great airflow, there wasn’t much dust so I cleaned up it, put the cover back on, and left it running overnight.

The next day the freezer was barely cooler than room temperature. I removed the back panel in the freezer and found a big chunk of ice around the top/beginning of the evaporator unit (big meaning perhaps 3 inches in diameter in an oval shape), a little frost on the pipe leading to the radiator but only a little at the beginning of the radiator. I turned it off for a couple hours to let it all melt away.

After it had melted I turned it back on, a couple hours later the beginning of the radiator has a tiny bit of frost but very little actual cooling happening.

A friend who has more experience than I (and a clamp-on ammeter) checked the compressor and we can hear the relay click on and it will stay on using about 10 amps for about 10 seconds and then click off for a few minutes, repeat. Otherwise the compressor fan and evaporator fans are working fine, we just have no cooling. My friends thought is it is the compressor, perhaps locked up from getting too hot.

Any other things to try or is it time to get a new fridge? Thanks for any advice.

  • Airin asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
2k views

I have replaced the defrost heater and thermostat and I still have trouble with the unit not defrosting. Is there a way to force the control board into defrost to check/test the defrost circuit? I’m not a GE dealer so I don’t have tech support available to me like I do with Frigidaire. I own a small appliance store and have an account with Marcone and Sundberg. Can you give me any support? Thank you David Little 217-452-3219

  • David Little asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
2k views

this is Kenmore/lg microwave oven. my question is can a magnetron test good and still be bad?

  • mrfixit asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
1k views

I replaced the touchpad panel about 2 weeks ago and now it is acting up. It finished a cycle and the clean light came on but two other LEDs came on faintly and are now constantly on…….nothing can make them go out .

The LEDs are for the “Potscrub” and “Heat Dry” if that helps any.

I hope the panel isn’t toast already and if so WHY??

  • Clay asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
585 views

The unit is showing me a R10a code that the ice maker sensor is open or shorted. But all the tests are fine for the Ice maker sensor. the temper and ohms correspond to the chart and the dc voltage is 3.0 at 39000 ohms. The ice is forming on the inside of the refrigerator corresponding to the position of the air passage from the freezer to the ice room in the refrigerator. That is also where the water under the pantry drawer is coming and not the fresh food evaporator drain. It said in a manual for another samsung to check the thermister reading at the display but I don’t see any information how to program it to show that or any thermistor temperature except the normal operation readings of the actual temperatures. Isn’t there some way to run the damper and lights and evaporator fans ect……? Is there a better service manual for this and if you have ever seen this kind of freezing in the air passage, what did you do?

  • Pancakes asked 2 years ago
  • last active 2 years ago
0 votes
7k views

refrigerator is not cooling at all but the compressor is running

  • Guest asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
1k views

hi so we have 2 issues with the stove top.
1. the two middle burners will not light by itself i hear the clicking but it sparks at the rear right not the middle where i want to light it.
2. the left and right front burners have a real small flame.. there is very very little gas flowing to the burner hence the small flame

  • zelik123 asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
661 views

The unit will agitate and drains but it will not go in to spin
Please advise

  • zelik123 asked 2 years ago
  • last active 2 years ago
1 vote
1k views

I need service manual for this washer. Or specifically if you can provide a video or repair instruction on how to replace washer drive shaft part number WH38X24734 that will be great. Very loud and wobbling and moving all over the place when spinning. Thank you.

0 votes
1k views

SPECIFICALLY THE PROCEDURE TO RECHARGE THE SYSTEM AND SCHEMATIC.

TX

  • Guest asked 3 years ago
  • last active 3 years ago
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