0 votes
1k views

hi…i have a ge top load washer …it will not start..dead…i thought maybe the gfi plug…but i plugged it into another source and it still will not start….i did reset the gfi and when i plugged it back in i heard a pop…..not good i know, but i do not know where to start to check it out…..is it fused?? or do you think something else is blown?

this is what i found elsewhere?? just an fyi…not sure what to think…

Cause 1 Thermal Fuse

If the washer overheats, the thermal fuse will blow. If the line fuse blows, the washer won’t start. To determine if the thermal fuse is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the fuse does not have continuity, replace it. In addition, you should investigate and resolve the problem that caused the fuse to blow. If you don’t resolve the underlying issue, the new fuse will blow too.

Cause 2 Main Control Board

The main control board might be defective. However, the main control board is rarely at fault for this symptom. Before replacing the main control board, first check all of the more commonly defective parts.

  • Guest asked 3 years ago
  • last active 3 years ago
0 votes
425 views

are you sure your video for ice maker removal is complete?

  • Guest asked 1 year ago
  • last active 1 year ago
0 votes
3k views

Hi thanks for your video on how to replace my ice maker it worked great. However my ice maker still does not make ice. It seems to cycle one time and then quit. So if I reset it it may make one tray and that’s all. Same results with the old ice maker I replaced. Any ideas?

  • Guest asked 3 years ago
  • last active 3 years ago
0 votes
1k views

unit makes a grrrrr sound while agitating. only does it when the basket attempts to turn left, it tries to turn left makes grrr noise ,won’t turn, but will turn to the right just fine, drains fine and spins fine no noises in drain or spin. any ideas? thanks

  • mrfixit asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Hi!
The problem is the following:
1. After turning on of a refrigerator, it works for ~2 hours, temp. goes down to -20 and +5 in freezer and cooling chamber, compressor stops
2. Then, after 10-15 minutes, it tries to start for 8-10 seconds, producing loud clicks and then stops. Freezer fan is working all the time.
3. Temp. goes up to +10 in both cameras, producing A1 or A2 alert.
If I give him a rest for 4-5 hours, this cycle repeats.
But some times (I don’t know why) this scheme breaks – compressor works (normally?), but temp. in cooling chamber rises up +10, meanwhile temp. in freezer drops to -26-27.
Thus, there is strange behavior – sometimes it seems to make vacuum in freezer, after the door is closed.

  • Anton asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
4k views

Hi – I really appreciate your videos.

I have the issue captioned above and it is just like the problem experienced in your video:

I have checked belt slippage/alignment and the belt switch (as was the problem above) and they both appear fine.

Any suggestions on what I should do next? BTW, I don’t have a multimeter so testing and diagnostics are as not easy as they could be.

  • Bret asked 4 years ago
  • last active 1 year ago
1 vote
780 views

Ice filter not changed in two years and existing small amount of cubes are small.

What is the method to cycle ice maker and perform test:

I will assume I have to fix a defrost thermostat/thermistor assembly. I need to be able to test and disassemble freezer back panel and ice maker Dissasembly.

  • Guest asked 2 years ago
  • last active 2 years ago
0 votes
2k views

After this last wash, the “Control Locked” light came on my washer. We have unplugged, to try to reset but to no avail. what is the matter with my washer? Please help. Mine is a Whirlpool Duet Washer with the above model #. The dryer is fine but my washer….. There is no error code just the light

  • Desiree asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
1k views

igniter working, flame working then going out after few minutes. put in new coils, still same problem! is there a way to check the valve itself? or could it be the heat sensor? thanks
what would next step be? thanks

  • Stanya asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
1k views

re: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-N39ZXZTWwc

Hi Sean, Your video, referenced above, worked perfectly with my machine. All of the diagnostics presented no problems, however, I felt that my machine took longer to drain than yours did in the video; but that’s the problem with my machine: my clothes won’t spin out on most cycles. I usually have to run my laundry through 2-3 “Drain & Spin” cycles before the clothes are spun out sufficiently enough to put in the dryer. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Terri

  • Terri Myers asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
1k views

THIS IS SECOND TIME ASKING WHAT COULD BE PROBLEM
AND WHAT IS OHMS ON SAFTEY VALVE WOULD BE TWO PIN ON TOP AND TWO PIN ON BOTTOM
PLEASE LET ME KNOW THANKS SO MUCH

  • Guest asked 3 years ago
  • last active 3 years ago
0 votes
780 views

First, your subzero refrige coil repair video is great!!

We have two Subero units with the 2 compressors in a tray. The 700 series and also a 427 wine cooler with lower drawers.

These units are a nightmare to work on due to limited access.

Since there is nothing obvious about how one might be able to ever get to the back compressor for service, a video would be a huge help.

Are your tech people familiar with these units with the tray, and would they consider a video?

If not, is there anyone there who I could talk to on the phone about the tray style subzeros?

Thanks

  • ernie asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
1k views

My fridge isn’t cooling. The evaporator is only frosted on about the top 1″ of the evaporator. I’m aware that the evaporators are notorious for leaking. How do I locate the leak? Will a leak that small show up with a bubble type solution, or do I use a sniffer?
When it comes time to evacuate the system, I have manifold gauges, but they’re set up for automotive R134a. What are the correct fittings for the R12 system? It looks like 1/4″ flare, but I can’t tell for sure. In the automotive world the low and High side have different size fittings, but on the fridge they look to be the same.

Thanks,
Don

  • Don Coulter asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
2k views

My Amana frig & freezer (model#ACD2234HRB) were both warm, although fan would still run. After hearing a clicking & humming sound.The information I found noted that it was more than likely a bad relay/starter/overload then compressor. So I replaced the starter relay/overload/capacitor(?), part#W10613606 . After replacing it was making the same sound and clicking on and off, also still no cooling to the freezer or frig. But after pulling out the relay to check connections, I noticed the relay/overload was hot to the touch. I don’t have a volt meter to check the compressor or parts. Bad part?

I ordered a new part, just in case it was bad. The same thing, happens hums ,clicks on and off, repeats itself. Will not get compressor running. Relay/overload is hot to touch. Don’t have a volt meter to check compressor.

  • ROBERT asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
1k views

Good day My Name is Roland. We are working on a dryer LG and need some help.
The unit will not heat well, we change the gas valve, the pilot valve comes on, but will not start full heat. The drum still rotates and we are getting no error codes. Do you have access to a wiring diagram for this unit or suggestions as to what is going on. Your help is appreciated.
Roland

0 votes
28k views

Have E 22 fault code which I know is the fresh food fan. Problem is code will not reset and nothing else will start up on the unit. Can here the control board click but compressor never cuts on. Any ideas?

  • Guest asked 3 years ago
  • last active 3 years ago
0 votes
839 views

Whirlpool Refrigerator French door bottom freezer. The unit is all iced up where the Ice maker is? How to you take the Ice maker out? It has all snap parts with screws to come out.

  • Guest asked 3 years ago
  • last active 3 years ago
0 votes
3k views

My fridge stopped working after our neutral line in the house was severed blowing most appliances not on protectors. I replaced the control board hoping it would fix it like my stove but not so.
Reprogramed to code 12 and the board is working correctly fan comes on but make a chugging sound (did that when it worked right) but no compressor. I looked at the wiring diagram and see a relay for the compressor, could this be it or is there another fuse or issue I may have. How do I trouble shoot this from here? Or is my fridge beyond repair?

  • Drew asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
4k views

get water but want make ice

  • aaron asked 4 years ago
  • last active 3 years ago
0 votes
2k views

I have examined the heating element of this Samsung dryer; but it did not appear broken. The coils were a bit black in some places but nothing broken. The inside of the dryer was filthy with lint … on the motor, in the heating element, and clogged in the lint exhaust hose. The tub spins and it has power. Is this low heat condition and indication that the heating element is going out or is there a problem with a thermostat not working correctly? What would cause a low heat condition in the dryer?

Thanks-

Fred / Lubbock, TX.

  • Fred asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
1k views

I need some advice from our subzero experts.
Complaint: Not Making Ice.
We found the unit with the icemaker arm bent around from the bucket being pushed back on the arm.
We replaced the icemaker and as the water level was low and it is in a rental home we removed the filter and installed a factory by pass plug.
I started the unit in Max Ice. The icemaker cycled around twice and filled to the correct water level. We thought all was good and stopped to double check it the next day, No Ice.
I checked everything over again, drawer switch etc. ok.
After posting on psanet we replaced the complete water valve w/flow sensor. I opened the valve sensor and found it had droppings in it. We thought we were ok.
I started the icemaker again on Max ice and stopped to check it again 2 days later. Still No Ice.
The wiring seems good . Power to the flow sensor comes from the Low Voltage Board and Power to the icemaker comes from the high voltage board.
Factory tech line doesn’t think it is a board.
Any advice would really be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

0 votes
749 views

Condensation back wall in refrigerator and behind ice maker

0 votes
2k views

how do you tell if your control board is bad

  • Guest asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
3k views

Washer gives f35 and sud error. Trap is clean, technician came and replaced the switch. Washer worked for about a month, getting f35 and SUD error again. Basket is clean. Please help.

  • Guest asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
871 views

Freezer evaporator coils have no frost on them, however the fresh food is keeping temperature. I know these units are problematic with sealed systems. Which evaporator is the most common to change and what is the easiest way to tell which one needs changing, because I have seen this same situation before and it be the fresh food evaporator and I have also seen it been the freezer evaporator. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. All fans work.

  • Guest asked 3 years ago
  • last active 3 years ago
0 votes
1k views

I ordered the part 819160 .It is oem.The installation instructions list four procedures .Does this unit have start and run capacitors? It has a battery sized one and a part that is wired to it with a blue wire and red wire.The part has a copper winding on it.This part plugs into the compressor,is it the run cap?The big cap has two red and one blue wires connected to it.Can send pictures.How do I wire this?

  • Guest asked 2 years ago
  • last active 2 years ago
1 vote
504 views

Customer complains that his dishwasher Silverware rack dosnt dry at all, but the rest is dry???

  • Guest asked 2 years ago
  • last active 2 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Hello, I love your new website.
My customer has a GE French Door fridge with the freezer on the bottom. I think the board that controls the fans is bad. I am the forth technician to service this fridge. She has had nothing but problems with it since she bought it. A year after, GE replaced the compressor. After that 3 boards were replaced. And more! Now this?..

0 votes
679 views

My question in I’ve had where I put a machine in diagonistic mode and the engineer that design the computer board didn’t flag the right part to replace with the code that came up. This makes are job harder. How to you know for sure when a wash machine has a computer board and the interface board which is your digital display, which tell you how many minutes the wash cycle is a time dry and the codes displayed. I had one time that it coded that it was the computer board I replaced it and it wasn’t the problem. Whirlpool I called they told me replace the interface board. I did that and that wasn’t the problem. These two boards cost almost $450.00 On this particular whirlpool hand another board that communicated to the computer. That one was replaced also. still didn’t fix the problem. All the board were checked for power and all output relays were checked to see if the output where working or not. All I want to know is there a better way to check the board because diagnotics isn’t always right what the engineer says what it is. If you could imagine this machine to try to fix would of cost over $600 dollars plus labor charges. I called whirlpool and they told me they didn’t know why it wasn’t working. funny thing though it work in diagnotic service mode but you put it back for the customer it wouldn’t work. Very strange.

  • Guest asked 3 years ago
  • last active 3 years ago
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