Repair Help

hi…i have a ge top load washer …it will not start..dead…i thought maybe the gfi plug…but i plugged it into another source and it still will not start….i did reset the gfi and when i plugged it back in i heard a pop…..not good i know, but i do not know where to start to check it out…..is it fused?? or do you think something else is blown?

this is what i found elsewhere?? just an fyi…not sure what to think…

Cause 1 Thermal Fuse

If the washer overheats, the thermal fuse will blow. If the line fuse blows, the washer won’t start. To determine if the thermal fuse is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the fuse does not have continuity, replace it. In addition, you should investigate and resolve the problem that caused the fuse to blow. If you don’t resolve the underlying issue, the new fuse will blow too.

Cause 2 Main Control Board

The main control board might be defective. However, the main control board is rarely at fault for this symptom. Before replacing the main control board, first check all of the more commonly defective parts.

Hi thanks for your video on how to replace my ice maker it worked great. However my ice maker still does not make ice. It seems to cycle one time and then quit. So if I reset it it may make one tray and that’s all. Same results with the old ice maker I replaced. Any ideas?

are you sure your video for ice maker removal is complete?

THIS IS SECOND TIME ASKING WHAT COULD BE PROBLEM
AND WHAT IS OHMS ON SAFTEY VALVE WOULD BE TWO PIN ON TOP AND TWO PIN ON BOTTOM
PLEASE LET ME KNOW THANKS SO MUCH

First, your subzero refrige coil repair video is great!!

We have two Subero units with the 2 compressors in a tray. The 700 series and also a 427 wine cooler with lower drawers.

These units are a nightmare to work on due to limited access.

Since there is nothing obvious about how one might be able to ever get to the back compressor for service, a video would be a huge help.

Are your tech people familiar with these units with the tray, and would they consider a video?

If not, is there anyone there who I could talk to on the phone about the tray style subzeros?

Thanks

My fridge isn’t cooling. The evaporator is only frosted on about the top 1″ of the evaporator. I’m aware that the evaporators are notorious for leaking. How do I locate the leak? Will a leak that small show up with a bubble type solution, or do I use a sniffer?
When it comes time to evacuate the system, I have manifold gauges, but they’re set up for automotive R134a. What are the correct fittings for the R12 system? It looks like 1/4″ flare, but I can’t tell for sure. In the automotive world the low and High side have different size fittings, but on the fridge they look to be the same.

Thanks,
Don

Good day My Name is Roland. We are working on a dryer LG and need some help.
The unit will not heat well, we change the gas valve, the pilot valve comes on, but will not start full heat. The drum still rotates and we are getting no error codes. Do you have access to a wiring diagram for this unit or suggestions as to what is going on. Your help is appreciated.
Roland

Have E 22 fault code which I know is the fresh food fan. Problem is code will not reset and nothing else will start up on the unit. Can here the control board click but compressor never cuts on. Any ideas?

Whirlpool Refrigerator French door bottom freezer. The unit is all iced up where the Ice maker is? How to you take the Ice maker out? It has all snap parts with screws to come out.

Washer gives f35 and sud error. Trap is clean, technician came and replaced the switch. Washer worked for about a month, getting f35 and SUD error again. Basket is clean. Please help.

Freezer evaporator coils have no frost on them, however the fresh food is keeping temperature. I know these units are problematic with sealed systems. Which evaporator is the most common to change and what is the easiest way to tell which one needs changing, because I have seen this same situation before and it be the fresh food evaporator and I have also seen it been the freezer evaporator. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. All fans work.

Hello, I love your new website.
My customer has a GE French Door fridge with the freezer on the bottom. I think the board that controls the fans is bad. I am the forth technician to service this fridge. She has had nothing but problems with it since she bought it. A year after, GE replaced the compressor. After that 3 boards were replaced. And more! Now this?..

My question in I’ve had where I put a machine in diagonistic mode and the engineer that design the computer board didn’t flag the right part to replace with the code that came up. This makes are job harder. How to you know for sure when a wash machine has a computer board and the interface board which is your digital display, which tell you how many minutes the wash cycle is a time dry and the codes displayed. I had one time that it coded that it was the computer board I replaced it and it wasn’t the problem. Whirlpool I called they told me replace the interface board. I did that and that wasn’t the problem. These two boards cost almost $450.00 On this particular whirlpool hand another board that communicated to the computer. That one was replaced also. still didn’t fix the problem. All the board were checked for power and all output relays were checked to see if the output where working or not. All I want to know is there a better way to check the board because diagnotics isn’t always right what the engineer says what it is. If you could imagine this machine to try to fix would of cost over $600 dollars plus labor charges. I called whirlpool and they told me they didn’t know why it wasn’t working. funny thing though it work in diagnotic service mode but you put it back for the customer it wouldn’t work. Very strange.

NOTE: I placed two black lines on my tub and agitator to observe individual movement.

Initial observations of the Problem:

My top load washer “roared” in either the rinse/spin and completed the complete cycle. (I should have paid better attention to detail.) In the 2nd rinse the washer stopped with water in the tub. I noticed a burning smell and the motor went into thermal shutdown. As I removed the V-belt I noticed much black rubber from the belt( V-belt track was cut). The water pump pulley spun with great difficulty. When I tested the transmission via spinning the transmission pulley counter clockwise (CCW) the tub spun CCW. When I spun the transmission pulley clockwise (CW) the agitator moved CW, however I don’t know it is agitating since I’m doing this task myself.

I believe the water pump pulley bearing cause a lockup such that the V-belt burned rubber. The electric motor recovered from thermal shutdown and turned on after allowing it to cool and with the V-belt removed.

Questions:

1) If the transmission pulley is spun CW what should be seen? Should the agitator spin around the 360 degrees? Would the agitator spin “X” degrees and then restart?

2) Could there be something else wrong with the agitator if it spins and doesn’t agitate?

3) What is the best way to check thrust bearing when the pulley is all black and I don’t see the “markers” the new translucent transmission pulleys contain?

4) Is it possible to just replace the water pump bearing?

Summary:

I know the belt and water pump need fixing or replacing. Questions #1and #2 are the most important since if the transmission is smoked there is a big cost. If you can provide answers to the all questions great?

Thanks in advance,

JP