Appliance Type: Dryer

GOOD EVENING. THE ORIGINAL COMPLAINT WAS THAT THE CLOTHING WAS NOT DRYING. THREE WEEKS AGO I TOOK APART THE DRYER AND FOUND THE BELT AND PULLEY OFF OF THE BLOWER. I PUT IT BACK TOGETHER AND SHE WORKED FINE FOR THREE WEEKS. I THEN GET A CALL SAYING THE BLOWER IS WORKING BUT UNIT IS NOT HEATING. I TOOK IT APART AGAIN AND FOUND THAT FIRST THE DRYER THERMAL CUT OFF DID NOT HAVE CONTINUITY. I HAPPENED TO HAVE A USED THERMAL CUT OFF THAT SEEMED TO MATCH. THE ONLY DIFFERENCE I FOUND WAS THE ORIGINAL HAD AN 352F ON IT AND THE NEW USED HAD A 309F. I PUT IT IN AND SHE LIT UP, BUT ONLY STAYED ON FOR ABOUT 6 SECONDS, NEVER IGNITING AFTER THAT NO MATTER HOW LONG IT RAN. AT THIS POINT I TESTED THE DRYER THERMOSTAT AND IT DID NOT HAVE CONTINUITY. I HAPPENED TO HAVE A NEW USED ONE THAT WAS ONLY 5 DEGREES HIGHER (265 – 270). PUT IT IN AND EVERYTHING WORKED WELL. TWO LOADS WHERE DRIED THAT NIGHT, BUT THE NEXT MORNING SHE WILL NOT HEAT AGAIN. THE ONLY OTHER POINT WOULD BE THE DRYER WAS RUN A LOT WHEN THE BLOWER WAS NOT WORKING. I NEVER WORKED ON A DRYER WITH THE STEAM ASSISTANT. AM I MISSING SOMETHING THERE, OR SOMETHING ELSE? HELP!!!!!!!!!!! TODD FROM NY

Hello

I had a repair guy come to my house that i had a bad heater circuit. what is that is it in the main board?

It runs no glow I do not hear the solenoids fire can you help?

Follow up on answer.

This GE monogram dryer is a Challenge to disassemble. Please advise do you have a sheet or a video

My dryer runs and heats up as expected in timed modes. However, in REGULAR mode (or automatic mode), it runs normal too, but the heat stops “heating” after about 5 minutes of being turned on. The Dryer LED indicator still shows it is drying with heat. It hasn’t even entered the cool mode yet. The clothes do not dry completely.

I have replaced the 4″ vent duct with a new clean duct. I cleaned and vacuumed the inside of the dryer too, including internal duct parts. Air blasted the blower blades. I removed the plastic filter housing and pressure washed the insides perfectly clean. Air flow is very plentiful. Looks brand new. Since I do HVAC as a living, I checked the following components: Radiant sensor, Thermostat (gas flame), Thermal fuse, Thermistor and Thermostat (dryer side). I cleaned all of them properly.

My conclusion is, that the thermistor (reading 10K ohms at room temperature) could be bad since I do not know for sure what it is supposed to read at different temperatures and it is a sensor that is directly exposed to the elements inside the dryer. I paid special attention on cleaning it, suspecting that it may have a bi-metal surface in contact with lint and moisture.

My other concern is the two “moisture sensors” (cathodes?). They look clean (and I wiped them down with water and a clean cloth) and I made sure that the blue wires are not loose when re-attaching them. How can two pieces of clean metal go bad? They look like stainless steel. To narrow the problem down, I thought about jumping the two blue wires, by-passing the moisture sensor plates to simulate a constant presence of moisture, but didn’t want to do any possible damage. My second thought was to place a wet sponge securely across the two plates to see if any improvement is noticed during a test run.

Lastly, the unlikely problem could be the electronics within the circuit board.

What do I need to do to positively find out what the problem is so I can fix the dryer?
Your reply is deeply appreciated.
Regards, Patrick Kieran.

I replaced the main control board on this Kenmore dryer have 120 Going to the main control board no lights will not respond. I am considering that I might have a bad replacement main control board. do you have a schematic of a Kenmore or a whirlpool that you could tell me what voltages I should have going to the touch control display board. I have considered ordering the display touch pad board but would like to be sure before I order another board. Thank you for your help.

we need a video on how to dismantle the dryer

have a dryer samsung code display is either ee fe or be cant make out will start for about 2 seconds then displays code

Hello my question today is with the Samsung dryer looks like it’s the dual element style will run for 3-5 seconds and then shut off. If the power is turned off and restarted on the unit it would start again for another 3-5 seconds and then shut off but if it’s press to start without powering off the unit it will not start again unless it’s powered off. This seems to happen in any mode whether it’s timed or auto. The unit is only about two years old I don’t think it’s running long enough for that motor to even overheat within 3-5 seconds also the unit is that even running long enough to even start to warm up in the 3 to 5 second window.

I would just like to know what to suspect at this point? To check the relay on the board to see if it’s open or is this a known issue ? I have not seen the Samsung dryer do this before

Hello, we just bought a dryer that runs fine then it just stops and sits there and the power button flashes. and as soon as you hit start again run runs fine any thoughts?

Got power, but won’t start

On this dryer the thermal fuse keeps going out, after it runs for awhile? What causes this problem? The vent is clear and is a short vent run.
If this keeps going out should you also replace the thermostats where is down by the heater, or should I look at the thermistor might be bad?

Replaced belt, idler, and squeaky rear bearings first time.. Costumer called me back out two days after initial repair with same complaint.. I greased the stubs for front bearings, replaced front bearings, and replaced rear stubs. Is the costumer overloading? Is the motor possibly spinning too fast? What could be causing the issue to come back? Could it possibly be the motor?
(Lost actual model number the one I entered is same dryer design)

installation instructions for coin drop 7044160P. may need a special tool for access to screws…not sure if reprograming will be necessary…Thanks

so they say the dryer will go off mid cycle.
I checked the motor by letting it run and turning it back on and off and on a d it restarts no problem.
what may I be missing?

I haven’t been on the call yet but I have an LG dryer that has a burning smell once it starts up

I AM TH NKING THIS MAY HAVE BEEN CAUSED BY CLOGGED UP VENT… OR POSSIBLY THE VENTED HOLES MAY ALSO BE CLOGGED OUTSIDE. NEED SOME IDEAS, BEFORE DIAGNOSING THIS MACHINE….

THIS GAS SAMSUNG DRYER IS GIVING THE ( HE ) ERROR CODE ,IT WILL RUN ON FLYFF ONLY WITHOUT GIVING THE CODE. SEEMS TO ME LIKE THE BOARD WOULD BE THE CULPRIT. ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED AND IF VIDEO IS GIVEN IT WILL BE MORE APPRECIATED THANKS

The unit will not power up I need the tech sheet and wiring diagram. 240vac ok and neutral line. Is it the I or main control? Or both?

It starts up it glows then I get a hum from the gas valve but no gas comes out I put brand-new solenoids on it and I get the same symptom the gas valve just hums and then it stops humming it glows again and then it hums again every time it glows it hums

good starting point to troubleshoot this brand new machine…120v ac each leg including feeding back through neutral.5 volts difference between right hot leg and neutral. what the??????

checked components everything checked out fine motor seems it was running slow put new motor in still not spinning fast . what are the facts that affect the speed of rotation

Kenmore dryer 110.66912690

I have checked the dryer and all signs pointed a defective blower motor
I am looking for a disassembly video for this particular model and particularly for replacing the blower motor

Theres no error codes

I have disconnected all other cables from the EOC but I am having problems removing the heater relay power chord

it is an electric dryer.
the drum turns but will not heat

I have a dryer that will not start that kicks out a e5 error. I think its an E looks like an E with the top line gone