Appliance Type: Dryer

good starting point to troubleshoot this brand new machine…120v ac each leg including feeding back through neutral.5 volts difference between right hot leg and neutral. what the??????

checked components everything checked out fine motor seems it was running slow put new motor in still not spinning fast . what are the facts that affect the speed of rotation

Kenmore dryer 110.66912690

I have checked the dryer and all signs pointed a defective blower motor
I am looking for a disassembly video for this particular model and particularly for replacing the blower motor

Theres no error codes

I have disconnected all other cables from the EOC but I am having problems removing the heater relay power chord

it is an electric dryer.
the drum turns but will not heat

I have a dryer that will not start that kicks out a e5 error. I think its an E looks like an E with the top line gone

When I try to push start to get the control panel to light up. The display board just blinks and beeps once and won’t turn on. Its been doing this for a while and unplugging and plugging back in usually works but is not working anymore.

On this model we have a problem where sensor dry doesn’t stop, clothing is hot, doesn’t shut off and does not go into cool down.

The high limit right thermostat on this unit which would cut power to the motor located on the right side of the heating element , when this goes out what usually is suspected or root cause of that?

do you have a video on this lg dryer. how to get into

MOTOR RUNS, NO HEAT, REPLACED CONTROL BOARD , USER INTERFACE BOARD AND THERMISTOR, HEATER RELAY ON CONTROL BOARD NOT CLOSING, WHY?

error f70

Dryer still not drying properly. After replacing the heat element.

Checked polarity on outlet, check fuse, checked push start switch all good. There’s no power to the start switch. Only place I have power is on the line feed to timer. I’m thinking a bad timer but unsure

I was just wondering if you could help me out. I’m trying to determine if the gas sprinkles are bad on my dryer. How do I test them?

GOOD MORNING. I AM TOLD THE DRYER RUNS FOR ABOUT 15 MINUTES THEN MAKES A LOUD BUZZING SOUND THEN STOPS THE CYCLE. THE DRYER DOES HEAT DURING THAT TIME. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. ALSO, THE DRYER WASHER STACK IS LOCATED IN A CLOSET IN FRONT OF NEW TILE, IS THIS REPAIR DOABLE WITH OUT MOVING THE UNIT? THANKS, TODD FROM NY.

Kenmore dryer will run for approximately five minutes. It then stops and throws a CLL SRU error code. I have researched this to mean “Call for Service”. I have seen others potential causes that range from shorted heating element, to dirty lint screen/venting.

 I need to put this dryer into diagnosis mode, but the tech before me took it for his collection. Any help would appreciated. Thanks Ricky

have checked 240 coming into the dryer, have power to the main control board. is there anything else I should check. could a door switch cause it to not power up at all. the drum light does not light all displays are dead

The dryer belt on the Samsung dryer comes off about every 2 or 3 months. I checked the pulleys including motor pulley and belt tension pulley and I see no problem with them. The drum rollers look good and are not worn and the inner drum seems to be fine. I asked the customer if they were turning the drum counterclockwise when they take the clothes out. They said no. I also asked if they were overloading the dryer. They said no. THe dryer is 2 to 3 years old. Any suggestions? Thanks, Ray

       Customer complain is that when dryer is in any cycle but timed that the time remaining is wrong. Example 10 minutes remaining will be 25-30 minutes in real time.  Also on timed cycle that the clothes in her opinion come out to hot. She has to take them out right after cycle stops, to keep them from being wrinkled.  Thanks Ricky

The dryer takes 3 hours to dry a load. I checked the vent lines, filter, replaced the heating element along with its thermostat.
I looked at the parts diagram. And what is the purpose of the Control Board,temperature,ATC ?
Should I replace any of the thermostats?
I put my temp meter on the inside wall of the dryer vent as it ran. its temperature went from 111* to 138* on time dry and It slightly rose and fell in a time of 5 minutes On more dry setting it red 128* to 148* slightly rising and falling in a 5 minute time.
Should the temperature stay or maintain a setting of ( let’s say ) 145* for a time of 5 minutes? And then gradually drop and stay at 120* for a couple of minutes?
This dryer is giving me heart burn.?

the flame will ignite however the the flame seems to be going out after 5 sec. i checked the vet for airflow and it is good.
i do not see any coils on the unit that i can replace

GOOD EVENING. I AM TOLD THAT THE DRYER IS TAKING TOO LONG TO DRY. SOME TIMES IT WILL WORK BETTER ON DIFFERENT CYCLES, BUT THE TEMPERATURE SEEMS ON THE LOW END. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. THANKS, TODD FROM NY.

We’ve been out 3x now and customer is beyond frustrated. We have changed the heating element and the thermostat separate calls. Both times machine tested and cleared as working but when the customer put it in use, no heat.

I came across a dryer that didn’t heat up. The therm- o-disc was bad, so I replaced it, closed it up and started it up. It still didn’t heat up. I opened it back up and checked all the thermostats around the heating element and found them to be good. I checked to see if I had 240 at the receptacle. I did.
Am I correct in assuming that the only thing left is the board?

This dryer is not coming on . I have test power and it is 240 on L1 and L2 but when i test on L1 to neutral i get 120 with is good but when i test L2 to N i am get 240 but only when dryer is plug up to wall plug . Test at wall plug is fine 240 L1 to L2 and 110 for L1 to N and L2 to N 110
This is crazy it has a new main board installed .

What do you thank mite be the cause that is keeping the dryer for working

GOOD EVENING. THE ORIGINAL COMPLAINT WAS THAT THE CLOTHING WAS NOT DRYING. THREE WEEKS AGO I TOOK APART THE DRYER AND FOUND THE BELT AND PULLEY OFF OF THE BLOWER. I PUT IT BACK TOGETHER AND SHE WORKED FINE FOR THREE WEEKS. I THEN GET A CALL SAYING THE BLOWER IS WORKING BUT UNIT IS NOT HEATING. I TOOK IT APART AGAIN AND FOUND THAT FIRST THE DRYER THERMAL CUT OFF DID NOT HAVE CONTINUITY. I HAPPENED TO HAVE A USED THERMAL CUT OFF THAT SEEMED TO MATCH. THE ONLY DIFFERENCE I FOUND WAS THE ORIGINAL HAD AN 352F ON IT AND THE NEW USED HAD A 309F. I PUT IT IN AND SHE LIT UP, BUT ONLY STAYED ON FOR ABOUT 6 SECONDS, NEVER IGNITING AFTER THAT NO MATTER HOW LONG IT RAN. AT THIS POINT I TESTED THE DRYER THERMOSTAT AND IT DID NOT HAVE CONTINUITY. I HAPPENED TO HAVE A NEW USED ONE THAT WAS ONLY 5 DEGREES HIGHER (265 – 270). PUT IT IN AND EVERYTHING WORKED WELL. TWO LOADS WHERE DRIED THAT NIGHT, BUT THE NEXT MORNING SHE WILL NOT HEAT AGAIN. THE ONLY OTHER POINT WOULD BE THE DRYER WAS RUN A LOT WHEN THE BLOWER WAS NOT WORKING. I NEVER WORKED ON A DRYER WITH THE STEAM ASSISTANT. AM I MISSING SOMETHING THERE, OR SOMETHING ELSE? HELP!!!!!!!!!!! TODD FROM NY