2 votes
1k views
1 vote
2k views

I’m not sure how to approach this one. But here goes. My customer calls me up complaining about her top oven. She tells me on the phone that she sets the oven at 350′. And when it reaches the temp. The temp numbers go out, and the oven lock comes on
So I go to her house. Turn the oven on 250′. It preheats in minutes and the control board is fine. ??? So, I increase the oven temp to 350′. A few minutes pass and the temp reaches the setting and everything is fine. I never had an issue with it. It worked for me.
So, I go home to look up the model # to see what I can find out. And there is no model # showing up. Only one site showed a number CLOSE to hers, but the “O” is missing. I found ZET2PL1SS, not ZET2POL1SS.

1st question, is why doesn’t the actual model # show up?
2nd question, is what is going on with her top oven?

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
1 vote
2k views

Good Evening Matt, do you have the service manual for this unit. Has an e84 error code, customer states they hear a pop noise before the code displays.

Thanks

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
1 vote
2k views

I checked the ohms on this temp probe and it read 1080. I was told that it should read at least 1100 at room temperature.
Is the probe ” bad ” at a 1080 reading “
Would it cause a delay in raising the oven temperature to 350 at set temperature? A delay of 30 minutes and the oven never reached its set temperature. Plus, when the temperature rose to about 310* it began to drop gradually to 295*

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
1 vote
2k views

Both ovens do not self clean. The big main oven turns on the oven self-cleaning mode for a brief moment and I can feel the ovens latch vibrating like it’s trying to close but then after about one minute the oven thermostat light starts flashing and so does a -red light on the back of the range on the main board behind the main oven-. Now the small oven when you set the selector switch to self clean and the temperature knob to self clean it does absolutely nothing. No light or anything.
Both ovens bake and broil fine.
Both ovens main boards had NO physical damage.
Only the main oven had any response when set to self clean. From what I read online there is a self clean board and preheat board. I did not count the flashes of the red lights and I am not there anymore. Can You guys suggest which board to replace because the main oven seem like it just had a bad latch but why did the small one not do anything?

  • Guest asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
1 vote
1k views

It will take as long as 4 to 5 minutes to come back on when (on the dual burner position) you go from low to high.

Is there an adjustment that can be made or is this a problem with the board? Which one?

Can you offer any advice? How do I test this kind of burner regulating system?

  • Guest asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
1 vote
3k views
f7

so i figured it maybe the control board so i changed it.
when i return power to the unit the bake and prob lights were flashing nothing seems to work and then the f7 error came back non
please advise

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
1 vote
2k views

i changed the igniter i changed the gas valve and nothing seems to correct the issue.
the igniter will not glow .

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
1 vote
3k views

Left rear burner on this gas cook top will not spark. I have changed the switch harness and the spark module. You can take a screwdriver and lay on top of the ignitor and it will spark. I have checked the wires and don’t see any bare spots and also the ignitor is new. Any suggestions or ideas?

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
1 vote
2k views

PA020047 Replaced spark module on numerous Viking ranges and like one or two a month randomly die and stop working completely. Have bought them from numerous sources (speedy parts, reliable parts, eBay, Amazon, allvikingparts etc) online including the whirlpool replacement which is an exact replica and even that one has died on me. Some last a week, some several months before I get a callback. All the new ones seem to be made by RobertShaw and not Ivensys like the old ones not sure if they’re all the same manufacturers or not.

  • Guest asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
1 vote
2k views

The control board is defective and has been worked on before. I want to verify whether someone may have switch the wires around on the control board

  • Guest asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
1 vote
2k views

complaint, only portions of numbers light up. Oven works ok. If you set it for 325F , part of the 3 & 2 is not lite up. Whats going on?? Is this some type of error code??

1 vote
2k views

do you have the wiring diagram for this unit?

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
1 vote
2k views

Does this unit have any service flashes or job pointer concerning the bake burner and spark ignitor kit .This is a DSI system? The gas ports are clean. The oven has run for years with out the Ground supplied through the outlet. The wiring is good. No bare insulation.

Is there a service manual available?

  • Guest asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
1 vote
3k views

This oven has been very problematic for me. The oven quits heating intermittently. I have posted on it before. What I have installed on the oven is, new spark ignitor and burner tube, temperature probe, spark module, Against advise of I also installed a new gas valve because I was once I got a bad ohm reading on the gas valve.Probably user error with my meter. So now I’m left with shooting the appliance or replacing the main control board. Could be a loose wire somewhere I suppose. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

  • Joe Trudell asked 10 years ago
  • last active 10 years ago
1 vote
2k views

Parts break down of unit.

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
1 vote
2k views

video on how to replace rack sensor

  • Guest asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
1 vote
5k views

Replaced igniter on the bake and works great. also replacing igniter and valve on the broiler but it doesn’t light BUT THE IGNITOR COMES ON AND GAS COMES IN for more than several minutes with door closed. I drilled two small holes near the broiler igniter and flame started to catch but new problem now there’s a draft Whirring noise when it runs and backfires… is there a kit to address this??

  • Guest asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
1 vote
2k views

This unit needs the 2 right infinite switches replaced. You can no longer get just one switch, you have to buy a switch kit with a wiring harness included. I have the part needed W10307362, but it came with no instructions at all. Can you get me the installation instructions? A video of this would be great if you have one available.

  • Guest asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
1 vote
2k views

THERE IS ANOTHER PART TO THE CONTROOLL WHERE DOES IT BELONG

  • Guest asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
1 vote
2k views

Is it normal for the upper oven to heat up 15 min longer than the lower? If not what can repair it?

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
1 vote
5k views

THE CONTROLS WILL NOT WORK

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
1 vote
2k views

oven won’t hold temperature , f7 error code

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
1 vote
4k views

How do I unlock bottom door.
I can remove oven because it is not mounted to cabinet with screws. It takes two people unless there is another way using dolly or other method.
I believe safety thermal fuse has blown. What location is fuse.

  • Guest asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
1 vote
2k views

The user interface on this oven will not work at all. Acts completely dead. No clock display, and none of the buttons work, unless you turn any of the burners on. Then the touch pads work correctly. Then you can set the oven to a temperature and it will say preheat for about 5 seconds then the display goes dead again. One more thing the burners never actually heat up when you turn them on and if you turn the burner off during any of this the screen goes dark and acts like it has no power.

  • Guest asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
1 vote
1k views

Hello, have a GE gas oven set to bake @ 350 starts to preheat will only reach 250 and oven shuts itself off. Try it again same thing, shuts its self off at 250 as if you hit the cancel button. Clock stays lite up. I tried self clean cycle and it seemed to work ok, door locked, fan started running. I stopped it before it got too hot so I could get the door to unlock without having to wait for the oven to cool down. Tried the broiler burner
, it seemed to be working ok. Tried bake again at 350 and it reached 350 with out shutting off. I thought great its working. Tried bake the next day same problem, oven shuts its self off at 250 wont go any higher. Is there some special setting or feature on this oven causing this???? Made sure the keep warm setting was off.

1 vote
2k views

the stove top sparks are not working I did not hear anything at any burner that I try.
I will light only with a match

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
1 vote
3k views

Right front burner switch stopped rotating. Got a new switch. Installed it per your Feb 2015 Utube video. The new switch did not turn either. So, here is where it gets odd. I removed the switch, stuck the knob on it and it turned just fine while in my hand. Did the same test with the original “defective” switch and it turned just fine as well. Re-installed each one and neither turns when installed. Help please

  • Guest asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
1 vote
6k views

My customer has this large Thermador oven, and the power went out. This caused just the main large oven to not function at all. It just displays Call Thermador for Service. Everything else works except for the main large oven. I wanted to see if you know how to reset this main board or know what is causing this issue.

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