Appliance Type: Washer

hi…i have a ge top load washer …it will not start..dead…i thought maybe the gfi plug…but i plugged it into another source and it still will not start….i did reset the gfi and when i plugged it back in i heard a pop…..not good i know, but i do not know where to start to check it out…..is it fused?? or do you think something else is blown?

this is what i found elsewhere?? just an fyi…not sure what to think…

Cause 1 Thermal Fuse

If the washer overheats, the thermal fuse will blow. If the line fuse blows, the washer won’t start. To determine if the thermal fuse is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the fuse does not have continuity, replace it. In addition, you should investigate and resolve the problem that caused the fuse to blow. If you don’t resolve the underlying issue, the new fuse will blow too.

Cause 2 Main Control Board

The main control board might be defective. However, the main control board is rarely at fault for this symptom. Before replacing the main control board, first check all of the more commonly defective parts.

NOTE: I placed two black lines on my tub and agitator to observe individual movement.

Initial observations of the Problem:

My top load washer “roared” in either the rinse/spin and completed the complete cycle. (I should have paid better attention to detail.) In the 2nd rinse the washer stopped with water in the tub. I noticed a burning smell and the motor went into thermal shutdown. As I removed the V-belt I noticed much black rubber from the belt( V-belt track was cut). The water pump pulley spun with great difficulty. When I tested the transmission via spinning the transmission pulley counter clockwise (CCW) the tub spun CCW. When I spun the transmission pulley clockwise (CW) the agitator moved CW, however I don’t know it is agitating since I’m doing this task myself.

I believe the water pump pulley bearing cause a lockup such that the V-belt burned rubber. The electric motor recovered from thermal shutdown and turned on after allowing it to cool and with the V-belt removed.

Questions:

1) If the transmission pulley is spun CW what should be seen? Should the agitator spin around the 360 degrees? Would the agitator spin “X” degrees and then restart?

2) Could there be something else wrong with the agitator if it spins and doesn’t agitate?

3) What is the best way to check thrust bearing when the pulley is all black and I don’t see the “markers” the new translucent transmission pulleys contain?

4) Is it possible to just replace the water pump bearing?

Summary:

I know the belt and water pump need fixing or replacing. Questions #1and #2 are the most important since if the transmission is smoked there is a big cost. If you can provide answers to the all questions great?

Thanks in advance,

JP

I have a Maytag 4000 Series Washer model# MHWE450WW01. This started about 2 weeks ago. I had an F71 error code. When I hit the power button I’d just get 3 beeps, no display. Found a Youtube video from an appliance tech who said F71 was a motor control board. Replaced the motor control board and everything seems fine until I ran a whole cycle and had wet clothes at the end. Everything seems fine except I get no high speed spin. Thought I might have got a bad board so I contacted partsimple.com and they sent me another board. That didn’t change a thing except to confirm the board was ok. I then replaced the control board. That didn’t change anything.

Here’s where I’m at now: In diagnostics it will spin at full speed with the C08 diagnostic test which tells me I don’t have a mechanical problem like a slipping belt, motor etc. During a normal wash cycle it will not spin at high speed with or without clothes in it. The door locks fine, door lock indicator is lit and door won’t open. It fills to the normal level and drains fine. Spin light comes on but the drum rotates at wash speed. It acts like a load balance problem. The drum rotates one way, stops, rotates the other, then the drain pump comes on and it tries to spin but then stops again, rotates one way then the other like it’s trying to balance the load. I can’t locate the balance sensor (if there is one). Any help would be appreciated.

My question in I’ve had where I put a machine in diagonistic mode and the engineer that design the computer board didn’t flag the right part to replace with the code that came up. This makes are job harder. How to you know for sure when a wash machine has a computer board and the interface board which is your digital display, which tell you how many minutes the wash cycle is a time dry and the codes displayed. I had one time that it coded that it was the computer board I replaced it and it wasn’t the problem. Whirlpool I called they told me replace the interface board. I did that and that wasn’t the problem. These two boards cost almost $450.00 On this particular whirlpool hand another board that communicated to the computer. That one was replaced also. still didn’t fix the problem. All the board were checked for power and all output relays were checked to see if the output where working or not. All I want to know is there a better way to check the board because diagnotics isn’t always right what the engineer says what it is. If you could imagine this machine to try to fix would of cost over $600 dollars plus labor charges. I called whirlpool and they told me they didn’t know why it wasn’t working. funny thing though it work in diagnotic service mode but you put it back for the customer it wouldn’t work. Very strange.

I watched your video regarding washer not draining. It shows instructions on how to remove the drum, however the drum I am trying to remove is stuck, Ive tried what your video says and im not sure if I missed anything because no matter what I do, it will not budge. Any suggestions

So the dryer was making a rattling sound when it starts and ends.
I thought it was the belt or ideal arm so I changed them .
No luck the noise is Evan worse now and the drum has no force to it.
Meaning if I put in a wet load it will not turn.
2. After I put the dryer back I have a strong burning smell when we start the washer.
It filled with water but will not advance to anything else.
I hear the timer clicking but that’s all I Get.
It is a 25 year old machine.

the unit will work sometimes .
put if I out it into spin I get the LO error and the unit will not run

The unit will agitate and drains but it will not go in to spin
Please advise

Washer gives f35 and sud error. Trap is clean, technician came and replaced the switch. Washer worked for about a month, getting f35 and SUD error again. Basket is clean. Please help.

Six-year-old washer has been loud for several months and periodic problems with spin cycles. Diagnostic codes F7 E1 and F7 E5.
Inspecting the clutch, it looked fine (no wear) but I noticed a lot of brown powdery residue on inside of clutch. (I remember a few years back finding a small puddle of rusty brown water (not oily) and a splatter spray from the liquid dripping onto the belt. The operation of the machine seemed fine and I never noticed the leak again.) I was going to try replacing the tub seal and actuator, and probably the lower harns-wire. But when pulling the transmission, I see that the entire inside is coated with this brown residue. I’ve been told there are no bearings from which oil might leak.
Is my transmission compromised?

Before sending this question to you, I paid for your video “Maytag gearbox repair and diagnosis” hoping to get a better understanding of how the transmission works. I was very disappointed to see that it was merely how to replace the transmission–something that is available for free on several appliance parts sites. I request that my $7.99 “rental” be credited back to my credit card.

Thank you.

My Maytag MVWX700XL2 washer starts before the spin cycle starts. Only error code was F9 E1. When it runs through diagnostic test, the spin works but not in normal cycle. Pumps out fine. Pulled everything apart. Cleaned inner drum and pump. No debris found, only some film and a little silt.

During the rinse & spin cycle the agitator spins wildly and makes an insanely loud screeching/grinding sound while whipping the clothes so hard and fast they stretch and if caught right, will rip. If I cancel the cycle and select “rinse and spin” it will rinse the clothes, but then during the spin cycle the malfunction will occur again. I then tried a “drain and spin” cycle which seemed to operate normally.

I need to diagnose the issue and identify the right part to replace.

Thank you in advance for your help!

I have videos if you need them.

This is a Maytag Bravos MCT

Washer leaking from the from door ,is a double unit

I performed the callibration test as listed in the video and I got two error codes ,F-7, E-5.
could you please tell me what they mean?

hiow to access door lock assyembly and how to trouble shoot and prove assy needs replacing

I have a GE SPACEMAKER stackable washer/dryer. Customer complained that the washer knob broke off and that the washer is not working. When I arrived I noticed the knob from the washer side was off the potentiometer aperture handle (timer knob) resting on the washer. I tested the dryer and the dryer appeared to be working fine. I tried to start the washer to test it by turning the timer knob (which had fell off of the control panel frame bracket) and pressing start button. Not only did the washer not show any sign of life by not starting, but I tried turning the knob on the timer without the knob attached and I could not hear any “click” coming from inside the timer indicating that it was advancing to the next stage of the washing cycle.
I removed the control panel cover and noticed the timer slid out of place in its socket when it was supposed to be securely fastened to the front panel. The knob was turning but the timer was not clicking as it advanced. I tried to unplug the connector OF THE TIMER from the wires but coud not notice any discrepencies visually. Should the wires have been checked ?? continuity ? voltage ? Could I have a bad timer ? If the dryer works fine and the power is getting to the dryer and stopping when it gets to the washer could the timer be preventing this ?
Timer part # 131758600 (WRITTEN ON TIMER ITSELF)
GE Spacemaker Washer Dryer combo WSM2700DAWWW

The machine is making noise during the spin cycle. Now it’s completely shutting off in the middle of the spin cycle. What should I fix? It is showing an error code of 3E.

Leaving clothes wet after cycle

i checked the pump for blockage
(none), for twisted hoses(none), for if motor is spinning the pump(it does) . i don’t know what else to do?