Repair Help

G E range # JGS968SEK1SS ordered a new control board, installed now the range has a code LOC REF unplugged range powers up LOC REF
2 seconds than all the led lights on board on for 15 seconds, than LOC REF appears again cannot clear, can someone help me with issue.

Model DMT300RFS/XAA
When it starts, the water comes in in measured amounts, but in a few minutes is to the point of flooding the tub edge. The unit then faults out with the ‘Heavy” and “Quick” lights flashing. This shows to be a ‘flow meter error”. Can someone who is familiar with these units expain the fill cycle on this model? I was able to vacuum out the water and then the unit would go into diagnostics. The wash motor and drain motors work fine from the service cycle, but nce the unit overfills, the control is useless. They should have made this unit go directly into a pump-out instead of freezing up full of water, in my opinion.
Any advice on how to solve the overfill issue? It’s not the valve…

Washer hearing a roaring sound in high speed spin, possible bearings? Library does not have this particular model it does however have a WM2077CW is that a close enough match to be of any help?

We have a customer with a Model# KURG24RWBS Serial# EK31901299 that has a defective defrost bimetal that is part of the wiring harness part number W10299078. The fine Whirlpool corporation has no eta on this part as they currently have no vendor we believe the refrigerator may have been made by panasonic. The unit is only a year and a half old and Whirlpool is not willing to help the customer in any way. There are no temperature ratings on the bimetal at all just some markings PW-5M2R 4033 R4 which if I play around on google appears it may have been made by SENASYS. Any help would be greatly appreciated

I have a 48″ Jenn-air range ; that main oven flame was sputtering and shut off. I started smelling gas and called gas company they came out and said he had a gas leak. I went out and order a regulator. Replaced regulator unit still does the same thing all other burners are Ok could it be the safety valve?

When set to bake, after about 20 seconds the unit codes out with f-34. tech sheet only says: replace air switch, then replace cooling fan, then replace control. all 3 have been replaced, in that order, and its still giving f34. the tech sheet doesn’t give any other information about the code. Anyone have any suggestions?

Control board and touch assembly replaced last month . Now the range shuts off after 3 min. in self clean. Thanks in advance for your response.

Customer just called in with the above symptoms, and I just wanted to confirm whether you guys would agree the likelihood of it being a cold control? I’d like to take it with me but wanted to get a second opinion on this. Thanks!

Checked this unit and removed debris/cleaned spray arms and checked the inlet valve, looks like it’s the culprit here. Problem is, I don’t have the ability to do a lookup today. Can someone there find that part info for me? Appreciate you guys.

replacing customer supplied door gasket .we confirmed correct part # msd47263101.seems to be to big to fit any tricks to this? or do you have video on it?

I found this unit to need the main board and the display after diagnostics. Can someone shoot me over those part numbers and pricing? Thank you, appreciate it.

What would cause this?

Diagnosed this unit as needing a start device. I haven’t done very many and am hoping you have a video that will help. Couldn’t find a Samsung one. Thanks.

Customer said there was an LE Error, but did not find anything stored. I cleared sump and drain pump of debris. ran test. no water leaks found. Couldn’t get error to reappear so I just told them to monitor. Should I have done more of a preventative estimate if they need further work? If the LE Error comes back they will need parts replaced most likely.

I think this is just the element, but am now unable to find the number. Can somebody help me out?

Customer call have a Frigidaire range FED355CCBC has a code F 3 can anyone tell me what this code means ?

GI6FARXXY07
Evaporator motor not running ? Need tech sheet

cant get the door off if you have any tips thank you
tom

Came across this Samsung microwave with the above error, tech sheet implicates the keypad/control panel. I managed to clean the ribbon cable to the control board and it seems to be working fine now. Could you shoot over the part information for the control just in case I get called back out on this? Want to have that handy.

Diagnosed this as needing a new control board. Anybody there have time to do a quick lookup for me? Appreciate it.

Didn’t find any error codes, unit had water left in it and wasn’t draining. Did find the pump leaking, so I’m going to be installing a diverter and pump. The only part number I could find was 426862P. Is that right?

Unit needs a new main control an defrost thermistor. I don’t work on many of these and am hoping for some specific help if possible.

Found the element bowed from repeated overheating and the hi limit open. Looks like I’ll need that entire element assembly. What’s the pricing and availability of it?

This need a new drain pump and fuse kit but I can’t find it, anybody there free to help?

Unit is running constantly, not turning off by itself. It’s also leaking water and tripping the flood switch. I think it needs link kits for both drawers, and an upper drawer seal to solve the leaking. I cleaned a lot of debris from the sump areas and it completed a cycle and shut off by itself. Could you guys help me out with parts availability and numbers?

This unit was acting up and I reset the board. It seems to be working fine now. But just in case it fails again, can I get the part information from you?

I narrowed this down to an inverter board but now can’t get the model breakdown to come up. Any chance you guys can send it over to me, or the board part number?

Customer out of California is running across a lot of Samsung washers (top and front loaders) and getting a lot unbalanced loads and a lot of tubs bouncing around. Beyond overloading, is there any common problem we are seeing out there that is causing unbalanced loads and tubs to bounce around?

Thanks!