Repair Help

The fresh food evaporator keeps frosting up. I have changed the control board and the evaporator thermistor and still keeps frosting up. I have run it through diagnostics and everything seems to be working fine. Any suggestions. I also would like to know what the resistance readings are on those thermistors.

THIS IS A KITCHEN AIDE UNIT. THE FAN HAS 3 WIRES CONNECTED TO THE UNIT. WHEN I CHECK VOLTAGE AT THE MOLEX CONNECTOR, AT THE FAN, I GET AROUND 12 VDC BETWEEN THE RED AND THE TAN/RED, BUT THIS VALUE DOES VARY AT TIMES. I CAN’T GET ANY READING AT THE BOARD BETWEEN P14 4,7 OR ANY OTHER COMBINATION. THE EVAPORATOR FAN, IN THE FREEZER, IS WORKING BUT I DON’T SEE ANY VOLTAGE BETWEEN P14 2,7. THIS LEADS ME TO BELIEVE I’M NOT ON THE CORRECT TEST POINTS. I SWAPPED OUT THE REFRIGERATOR EVAPORATOR FAN BUT STILL NOTHING. WITH THE HARNESS PLUGGED INTO P14, I TRIED TO GET A READING ON THE BACK SIDE, OF THE CONNECTOR, BUT STILL DON’T SEE ANYTHING. I ALSO TRIED TESTING BETWEEN P14 1,2 AS WELL AS 3,4 AND I DON’T SEE ANYTHING. I’VE ALSO CHANGED THE COIL ASSEMBLY AROUND THE 3 WAY VALVE WITH NO CHANGE. ANY ADVICE/GUIDANCE WOULD BE APPRECIATED. TX

CAN YOU ALSO SEE IF YOU CAN FIND THE COMPLETE SERVICE MANUAL ON THIS UNIT FOR ME PLEASE? TX

Please send diagnotics sheet so I can test machines parts in unit.

Hello,
A few months ago, I ran the cleaning cycle on our ice maker. After it completed, everything returned to normal and all seemed fine. Within about couple of days, I noticed a mildew smell coming from the bin. The ice did not smell but there was a nasty moldy smell coming from somewhere inside the bin. I replaced the all the hoses (drains, recirculation hoses, etc) because they looked cloudy and a little nasty. I also found the writing harness from the control box to the connector bracket had a wire that was loose in the harness due to corrosion. I replaced that harness. Put everything back together and everything was fine for a couple of days but the mildew smell came back. I did some deeper checking of things and found a couple of issues.

Looked online and technical manual both say check wiring from door latch to CCU or needs new latch. I tried a new door latch still error won’t even lock or start. Checked CCU board for burns looks good, checked wires for continuity good..
Could it just be needing a new CCU AND will I have to program it to take $2 dollars again for a wash with the new board or is that a separate computer inside the coin slot thing? Please keep the answer simple brain dead after this one.

What else can be defective in the defrost circuit if the bi-metal and heater is ok?

i replace the icemaker and it still making a little ice. Should i replace water valve?

why does this light continue to blink when dw is finish?

water leaking out of bottom and coming out in front. Not alot of water but is a problem.

THE EVAP COIL HAD A LEAK WHICH I REPAIRED. I RECHARGED THE SYSTEM. I HAVE 0 PSI AT THE PROCESS STUB AND ABOUT A 70 DEGREE DROP ACROSS THE CONDENSING COIL. THE UNIT ISN’T COOLING PROPERLY STILL. THE TEMP DROP ACROSS THE COIL HAS ME STUMPED AS SEEMS TO ME THAT IT SHOULD BE WORKING. ANY THOUGHTS? TX

THE UNIT HAS POWER BUT NOTHING IS RUNNING. I NEED DIAGRAMS TO FOLLOW CURRENT FLOW. TX

Refrigerator evaporator freezing and not defrosting properly any suggestions

I know it has to be an air leak but does G e make a repair part for this problem? If so do you Know the part number? The evaporator is clean and the drain pan is not rusted

I need a service manual to test this unit. I’ve never seen this one before. Is there a way to test the temperature in the ice room? If it is turned off should the temperature be in the 40’s? I ran the checks in the tech sheet and it does move and the fill valve works but I don’t understand the principle of operation. I need to know how to disassemble it.

So I’ve replaced the tub bearing and tranny due to a leak, reassembled and tests good, washer 7 loads and it through a main computer replace error. Replaced the main control and door lock and it washed 7 loads and it wont wash again. The on, wash and lid lock light are on and it wont do anything. Any ideas?

Need help diagnosing unit. Also is there a video on how to take off the top panel off to see the inside. Please help

Cleaned the condenser coils, everything working fine. Will clean better with foaming spray and check reservoir pan when I go back.

hey there do you know how to replace left hinge on the door i tried different way but still giving me hard time to replace it please let me know if you any video or any sugesstion available with this model to help it would be really appreciate thanks

Oven does 2things,
1. It takes a long time (30 minutes) to raise temperature. Set oven at 375*. 30 minutes later it reads 310* then starts to drop to 295*. I put an oven thermostat inside and it read 170*.
2. Once it reaches a high temperature ( below set temperature ) it begins to drop.

I am trying to put the ice drawer & all the parts back togather but they won’t fit, so I need a full parts brake down just for this area. I don’t know what I doing wrong. Thank You, Jim.

I replaced the W10428901 control board an I am getting PE 000 code. I do not know the proper button to push to set the code. the code on the model tag is 13.

I have a samsung washer that the pump will not come on. I tested the pump and it works fine. it runs fine till it needs to drain. any thoughts?

Water randomly starts shooting out when door shut sometimes. Should I replace who control panel p#ACQ75432118 ?