Repair Help

I’VE RECENTLY HAD A RUN OF THESE TYPE UNITS WITH THE SAME ISSUES. THE LED, ON THE INVERTER BOARD, IS INDICATING NORMAL STANDBY. THE TIMER MOVES THROUGH THE CYCLES BUT THE ONLY THING THAT COMES ON IS THE DRAIN PUMP. NOW AFTER LOOKING AT THE DIAGRAMS I’M NOT SURE WHAT VOLTAGE I SHOULD HAVE WHERE AND WHEN. ALL THE UNITS I’VE HAD SIMILAR ISSUES WITH ARE BELT DRIVEN. IN SOME INSTANCES I’VE HAD THE SAME BOARD OR TIMER BUT THE ISSUE DOESN’T GO AWAY. ANY THOUGHTS? I SENT IN A FOLLOW UP TO THE FIRST RESPONSE. I’VE CHECKED THE LID SWITCHES ON THESE UNITS AND REPLACED THEM, WHEN NECESSARY. SORRY FOR THE OMISSION. THE UNITS I GET ARE WHOLESALE FROM BIG BOX STORES. MAINLY RETURNS, WARRANTY ISSUES OR SWAP OUTS. OFTEN SOME OTHER TECH HAS WORKED ON THEM PREVIOUSLY AND ACCORDINGLY THEY DON’T PUT THE PAPERWORK BACK IN THE UNIT. NOW SOMETIMES I HAVE PAPERWORK FOR THEM OR SIMILAR TO GO BY OR I ASK YOU GUYS. THE SCHEMATICS I HAVE FOR SOME OF THESE UNITS DON’T SHOW WHAT VOLTAGES I SHOULD HAVE AT EACH PIN, AT THE MOTOR, RELATIVE TO WHAT CYCLE IT’S IN. SO I NEED TO FIGURE OUT WHAT VOLTAGES SHOULD BE PRESENT RELATIVE TO THE CYCLE AT THE VARIOUS MOTOR TERMINALS.

When I select a cycle and press start nothing happens. The motor led flashes 10 times.

this is a vmw. initial problem was wouldn’t agitate or spin,motor would only hum for 1- 2seconds once or twice. I did all the test in tech sheet. the only thing out of line was in testing main control j7 -3 to j7-1 I should get +13 vdc. i’m getting 12.3 also when testing shifter i’m getting 12 vdc not +13 vdc. is this voltage difference enough to cause the problem i’m having.getting f7 e6 and f7 e5. when I turned the drive pulley I got a ratchet type sound and action.

Have a sears kenmore range, not broiling but bake and convection are working.
Broiler unit has no 220 volts but ohms ok, the range has no wiring schematic.
all else working ok. probably a control but want to be sure there isn’t some fuse or thermo in circuit with broil element. Anyone have a wiring diagraming they can share

Thanks in advance

I’VE RECENTLY HAD A RUN OF THESE TYPE UNITS WITH THE SAME ISSUES. THE LED, ON THE INVERTER BOARD, IS INDICATING NORMAL STANDBY. THE TIMER MOVES THROUGH THE CYCLES BUT THE ONLY THING THAT COMES ON IS THE DRAIN PUMP. NOW AFTER LOOKING AT THE DIAGRAMS I’M NOT SURE WHAT VOLTAGE I SHOULD HAVE WHERE AND WHEN. ALL THE UNITS I’VE HAD SIMILAR ISSUES WITH ARE BELT DRIVEN. IN SOME INSTANCES I’VE HAD THE SAME BOARD OR TIMER BUT THE ISSUE DOESN’T GO AWAY. ANY THOUGHTS?

Can you tell me what could be causing this issue on a Whirlpool Refrigerator? It is having these problems: Icemaker not receiving water

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