Repair Help

Just replaced a bad element in this electric dryer and found a huge build up of lint both in the dryer and backed up the venting. A different company had been out recently and not mentioned it or cleaned it out. This is a huge safety hazard, as well as bad business. If you’re in a customer’s home or doing your own repair, please check the other components and take care of any safety hazards before completing the job. If you can’t get it clean enough, recommend a duct cleaning company to ensure this doesn’t come back on you.

The temperature seems to have no control, is consistently off and moving instead of maintaining what’s set. Replaced ignitor and still having some intermittent issues.

GE refrig model: PFSF5RKZAWW that is Dead, no display, no interior lights, no fans, no compressor.
He verified 120 v through emi filter to the main board and inverter but unit will not fire up. Pulled individual harnesses to see if something may have been shorting low voltage but no change. He did change main board and user interface with same results.

I have a Frigidaire oven M#PLCF489ACB – no bake. The bake element test good for continuity. When put in bake mode, the broil comes on , but the bake element does not come on at all.
I feel that this will be the EOC, because if it was a thermal fuse/cutoff, then the broil would not be working. Cannot find wire diagram with the unit.

M# WFW9150WW00 S# HL00320704
This unit is 2 yrs old and the front of inner drum is hitting the front of outer tub and giving it jagged edges and ripping clothes. There is no up/down or side to side motion or feeling of looseness. Not sure what to make of this problem.
Thank you, Paul

Range in question heats oven intermittently then stops heating. Model sf362lsxqo. I replaced the burner and spark ignitor, spark module, temp probe, and lastly the clock/control board. I bought a rebuilt control board from Part Simple and when received it was in a corcentric box. I have closely checked the wiring. With each part replaced the symptoms tree main the same. I believe the customer will now be replacing the oven. Has anyone had similar problems with whirlpool spark ignition? I’m wondering if I got a bad board. Any advice would be welcome. Thank you.

Starts and after about 5-10 mins the dryer stops and starts beeping with D68 on the display, if you press cancel and start it again it will run for another 5-10 mins

The unit will actually begin to smoke if there’s a heavier load in. Where should I start?

lOOKING FOR DISPENSER ON THIS GE STEAM ASSIST WASHER #GTWS8650DWS ..THANKS IN ADVANCE

KitchenAid dishwasher model KUDS30IXBL8 do you have parts list ?

Range in question heats oven intermittently then stops heating. Model sf362lsxqo. I replaced the burner and spark ignitor, spark module, temp probe, and lastly the clock/control board. I bought a rebuilt control board from and when received it was in a corcentric box. I have closely checked the wiring. With each part replaced the symptoms tree main the same. I believe the customer will now be replacing the oven. Has anyone had similar problems with whirlpool spark ignition? I’m wondering if I got a bad board. Any advice would be welcome. Thank you.

Thanks

Having issue with Samsung refri. RS2530BSH the mullein heater between the s/s doors are very hot 155 degrees, my question is are the heater control by the main control board. Thanks

I need the parts list for this model or a video if you have one for the mail control board ?

I am working on a ge gas range, model jgbp325el3ad. This unit has had four modules and a clock changed in the last two years due to continued spark ignition. The ground checks okay. even ran extension cord to different outlets to attempt to prove outlet is okay. Everything there checks good., The issue now is that the model number does not come up in any of the parts listing I to, to order parts, etc. did not match the model number listed on the oven nomenclature tag. Two questions: One has anyone encountered the ignition problem I have described where a new spark module last for about 30 days and the unit starts parking again> and two, any suggestions on the model number>
thank in advance …

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Wanted to post a quick reminder out there to check out all valves/fittings/connections on gas appliances. Had another one today that just needed tightened down at the compression fitting at the safety valve, and that was all it took. Whenever you work on gas, take a few extra minutes to check please! Easier to do when you’re in there already.

I found the control bad and replaced it, only to realize there must be a secondary issue. I thought the board just shorted causing the burning smell but am now thinking there’s something else going on.

The oven wasn’t heating up and the stove wasn’t working either. Indicator light wouldn’t go off even when cool and not in use. Was able to reset the board and it seemed to work fine. Should I stress to replace it or let it go as is for now since it’s working again?

I can’t seem to find what the issue is here, initially diagnosed as the pad actuator but that doesn’t seem to be it now that I have it apart. Any thoughts?

Just went out on a call where a different company told the customer they needed a new ice maker because theirs wasn’t producing any ice or seeming to work at all. I replaced the saddle valve and cleared ice from the frozen line to the ice maker so they are now good to go. A lot of companies are trying to sell customers what they don’t need. We’ll get repeat business from this customer for a more costly repair because we know what to check and are honest.

Just wanted to post a reminder to check some of the ignitor positioning on these ovens, I didn’t find any issues with this unit, but the ignitor was not located close enough to the bake tube so it wasn’t always coming on. Sometimes in delivery, moving, or reinstalling appliances after a remodel it’s just a matter of checking the components are in their correct place for proper operation.

I know the PCB main is in need of replacement but need some help finding the secondary issues.

The latest one happened to me last week. Dryer no heat. I checked it out and of course it heated fine at the time of call. I did take dryer completely apart cleaned & oiled, and power rodded the 25′ vent run to the outside. Dryer was running the whole time while cleaning up and filling out invoice. That night the dryer stops dryer mid-cycle to check for heat and basement gets full of gas! We Called the local (gas company) out, they tag it and valve it off.

So I go back myself and total time watching this piece was over 1.5 hrs and still no leak. I search my data base and find that 3 years ago another LG dryer had the same issue and then I remember the strong gas odor outside, long story short control failure.

Just wonder if more dryers are doing this but just not being caught, have to smell it outside or stop and check in cycle. It is an eye opener if you ever witness it in action.

I installed the condenser fan just fine, I had to get a sub for the main board which was WR55X10942 which says it replaces the original number of WR55X10037!
The instructions say to check for a green wire and cut it , also to cut a thermister wire if “it is a bottom freezer drawer unit or if it has “X” in the Serial number, This one is neither, so I just installed it. Some of the connectors are in a different places but they all did fit…
The compressor and condenser fan came on after a few seconds and shut off after 5 or 7 seconds. NO display inside the fridg.
any suggestions , do you think I have a bad new replacement board?

Have a GE built in bottom refrigerator with problems. GE Built IN model ZICS360NMC (bottom freezer )
Prior tech has taken the service tech sheets and I did not locate the model on my disk set.

never work on this type

I have a model Amana refrigerator and the refrigerator section went warm. We do not usually service the Whirlpool product lines usually sticking with Samsung, LG and GE as we are authorized for them and have access to their literature, etc.
Can anyone assist with some service information and any tips for this model? I understand looking at an exploded view that the unit is a single evaporator model with a damper control. Is there anything common that could cause the damper to malfunction or do you think I am even looking in the right area?

We have a kitchenAid refrigerator that previous company replaced ice maker and ice maker optics, we were called out, found that water valve to ice maker was bad. replaced the valve and ice maker still not harvesting, I checked power to the ice maker, holding the interlock switch and no power, went behind the kick plate at quick disconnect no power there either… There is no tech data with refrigerator does anyone have a tech sheet or advise on how to proceed. Thanks.

Model # WED6400SB1 Serial # MW0101280

This dryer keeps having the thermal fuse open. I changed the fuse (3392519) and the thermistor (8577274) four times this year. I also changed the thermal fuse, thermistor, and the heating element (8573069) per tech line recommendation on December 5th. The customer has had the venting cleaned. The customer has called back yesterday saying the dryer is dead again. Is there any suggestion to resolve this issue?

Thank you in advance.