Repair Help

Hello!
Thanks to your video, I was able to diagnose the cause of my leaking bottom drawer freezer, order the right part, and replace the sticky (disgusting!) duck bill grommet with the P-trap. When I was finished I tapped out the almost two inch thick glacier that had formed on the bottom of my freezer and thought we were good to go – but when I checked the freezer the other day there was ice on the bottom again!!

I gather this means that somewhere between the bottom of the fridge and the entry to the P trap there must be an ice dam. What is the best and/or easiest way to melt that out? I don’t have access to any of the fancy tools but I do have a hair dryer and screwdrivers and lots of spunk so hoping those will do the trick.

Thank you so much for your free videos, they are the best. I never would have felt empowered to fix this thing all on my own without your help.

Kindly,
Katie

Hello- Thanks for any help you can give. Maytag model MSD2655HES. Fan runs but compressor not working. Before I conclude that is bad and must be replaced. I need to remove the relay from it and connect the three wires from my power cord to the compressor’s three terminals and turn it on. I have a feeling I have a bad relay. But I do not know where each wire should go- on what terminal. Please help. And if you can offer more tips on how to determine if I have a bad compressor would be awesome ! Many thanks.

There is no problem with the oven preheating but when it attempts to cycle on again, the gas doesn’t ignite – the spark igniter can be heard. The issue wouldn’t be the temperature sensor, since the unit calls for heat. The spark igniter can be heard. Is the issue most likely the safety valve?

My Side by side will not cool to set temperature, I removed most food about a week ago to see what was going to happen. The freezer temperature has bounced between 21 & 23 Fahrenheit. The back panel is frosted and i can hear the fan running. The Fridge has held between 41-43 Fahrenheit. I have also noticed the water dispenser slowed to a little stream and it has not been making a lot of ice for about a month before the temperatures started dropping. I turned the temperatures on both sides up until the display showed off. So i could hear the water pump kick on when i tried getting water. I have since unplugged the unit now about 12 hours and removed all food and cleaned it.

Refererigerator not cooling replaced main board and defrost terminator worked about 7 days and stopped cooling again any ideas?

My LG front load washer works like a charm, however every 10-15 loads or so it overfills. The water level in the washer will rise all the way to the top of the viewing window, and eventually overwhelms the door seal. Each time this has happened my wife and I have been stuck cleaning up apx 35 gallons of water. In between episodes the washer works great, the pump works, and the drain hose works. I have checked the filter, the sump, and the door seal/gasket all of which appear to be in fine shape. I suspect the appliance has a sensor that should be kicking in and preventing sooooo much water from filling the washer. Any suggestions?

My Kenmore side by side fridge #10650532101 is not cooling. The relay switch has been replaced and the unit turns off and on. I viewed an online diagnostic video and I struck(tapped) the thermostat and the unit began to cool. Does this mean that my thermostat is not functioning and needs to be replaced? Or could it be something else? Please help.

hotpoint csx27drxdww side by side.
I replaced the two defrost heaters and thermostat due to ice blockage of the lower of the two coil units and ice on the lower back wall of the freezer. I thought that would solve the temp in the freezer not near 0 and the fresh food side not in the 35-40 degree range.
The unit defrosts every 16 hr. like the spects for the defrost timer indicates, the compressor and evaporator fan and condensor fan stop for 30 min. then turn on without stop for 16hs until the next defrost.
The drain is open and water is seen in the defrost pan . the condensor motor was replaced 1 yr ago .
The current air temp in the freezer is 20-30 and fresh food 46-50.
I feel good air flow in the top of the freezer next to the ice maker( still makes ice) from the evaporator fan that run all the time except defrost. I can feel minimal air flow in the side wall of the fresh food side. not flow for sure at the top of the fresh food side where the damper and temp controls are.
I have tried damper settings from d(coldest) to b next to the warmest and temp control from 9 (coldest) to 5. But no significant change in freezer or fresh food temps.
The compressor is on and gets hot. the condensor coils at bottom of frig is room temp not hot.
Thats the story. Can you please help me? Thanks

I am very familiar with appliances, but need some assurance. I noticed first on the freezer side the ice maker quit making ice as the temp was not getting cold enough for the mold thermostat to cycle, I saw some frost on the back of the freezer compartment so I removed the back panel and the evap coil did have some frost on it, but was not blocked off and I could feel air blowing in the fridge compartment, also the evap fan was running so it should have not been in defrost mode. I checked both T–stats and both were closed. I pulled the unit out and removed the back panel to see if the compressor was running. The compressor was running and I could feel a temperature difference between the suction and discharge lines, however the condenser was really not that warm. My meters both had dead batteries, but my thought is that I’m extremely low on gas. My next step is for tonight I will look at the data tag and confirm the compressor amp draw then take an amp reading to see if it’s low, if it’s low that should confirm my theory without tapping in to the system. I would really just like to get your thoughts on my direction.

Thank you

Why Is our fridge getting condensation on the left outside wall? How can we solve this problem?V

I have checked and double checked the leveling of the washer and it’s perfect, but I still get the loud banging noise like the tub is out of balance and banging into the side of the washer’s frame.

brian,,
I removed icemaker from refrig., took plastic cover off nose. There is a sort of “L” shaped black plastic piece attached by a screw, about 1inch vertical, 1 and 3/4 inch horizonal, covering the T and H holes on the endpiece. It has a yellow wire into it, and a short metal probe that fits into the H hole. To run the diagnostic with a jumper wire, I would have to leave the L-shaped piece unattached, reinstall the icemaker, reattach the wiring harness. Then should I turn the icemaker switch to the on position and then use the jumper wire to see if the icemaker cycles? Am I going to short out or burn something out doing this? I am hesitant to do this. What do you suggest?
Thanks, ron again

Just watched your video and our washer has all of the symptoms of having a bad rear bearing. The washer is 9 years old. Is it worth fixing ourselves? Is it difficult?

Hi, I have a Fisher & Paykel DD605. The Control Module cover has 2 IR lenses on the right hand side. One of the lenses has a strange build up in the lense causing the IR to not pass through. Basically I’m looking for a Control Module cover plate only. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Ed
732-259-6204

The machine stopped and door is still locked and there is no power to the front panel. I’ve checked the circuit breaker and the outlet and there is power there. As I started to move the washer to work on it the power came on for a moment and displayed the (PF) code then powered off again. Which my manual says is “Electric service was lost when washer was running” Solution says to restart the cycle by pressing the cycle selector dial but as I said there is no power coming to the panel. I’m very mechanically inclined and to broke to call a repair person so I would love to do this myself if you could point me in the right direction. Any help you could provide would be awesome. Thank You!

John

You sent me instructions to use key pad to enter into diagnostic mode. That doesn’t work. It will not respond into that mode using the keypad steps as instructed. What would you do next if you were me? thanks

I have a French door fridge with the freezer on the bottom. Water and ice through the door. I have water at the door but no water to the icemaker. Is there an diagnostic video that explains how to diagnosis the ice maker. I am figuring that there is a water valve somewhere that is no allowing water to get to the ice maker.

Thanks-
Rob

I replaced the heater and the sensor and I am still getting leaks. It looks like I received the same replacement heater you all used. Where the wire from the left side has its own harness. The OEM heater’s left side wire is connected with the right to go into the same wire harness. In your video at the 8 minute mark you all cut and go to the finishing steps. Before that, the left wire is still sitting unconnected. After 8 minutes it is connected. Did you all splice the wire? I spliced it into the empty spot on the harness/connector that was on the right wire. I do not have co2 so I used hot water/hair drier to the point of it flowing freely. At the end you talk about sealing the wall plate//fan unit up against the fridge. I am worried because the Styrofoam/tape is damaged on mine. That may cause leakage, but still the bottom freezes solid and stops draining. (I checked the ohms on the heater and it is not burnt out)
Any advice would be great. I am thinking of ordering the thermal fuse at this point because it is the only part I have not replaced.

It’s gas by the way. What part would I need?

Is there a video showing how to replace the thermostat, or do you think it is something else. This started after running a self clean cycle. Thank you.

The thermostat seem to check out good.The fans in the fridge and freezer are blowing I cannot tell if the compressor goes on or not. What might I check to see if one of the other switches is bad. I don’t know if it is whirlpool or frigidaire. It is a sears coldspot.

the 1st steps just yield c– – f on the freezer display and 0c on refrig display when I do steps 1,2,3. it reverts back to set freezer temp and refrig temp after a few minutes. what am I doing wrong?

Hello,

I found my garage refrigerator/freezer not working with everything defrosting inside. My grandson came over and took off the back plate, said the fan wasn’t running down near the compressor. He thinks he can do the repair himself but I wanted to get a professional opinion with what’s wrong.

Thanks for your help!

My mother has a sub zero side-by-side refrigerator, Model 532. It is constantly running and she is noticing that food is freezing on the refrigerator side even when on the lowest setting. Any suggestions?

my refrigerator leaks how do I fix it