Repair Help

Hello AV, I have a 7 year old GAS whirlpool duet dryer (Model W10049550) that decided to stop working. The display seems to be working, but the minute counter starts to flash the moment I press the hold start button. I’ve prepared a quick 3 min video to help you diagnose the problem. Your help is much appreciated!

http://video214.com/play/Mh4o1RQA105IWh3FnS8AHg/s/dark

how do I get old ice maker out

I replaced the touchpad panel about 2 weeks ago and now it is acting up. It finished a cycle and the clean light came on but two other LEDs came on faintly and are now constantly on…….nothing can make them go out .

The LEDs are for the “Potscrub” and “Heat Dry” if that helps any.

I hope the panel isn’t toast already and if so WHY??

I performed the callibration test as listed in the video and I got two error codes ,F-7, E-5.
could you please tell me what they mean?

i checked the pump for blockage
(none), for twisted hoses(none), for if motor is spinning the pump(it does) . i don’t know what else to do?

We watched a few of your videos and have done all of this:
replaced water filter
water comes out of fridge just fine
no ice or water in ice cube trays
bar is not stuck
ice is not stuck in the blue catch bin preventing new ice from being made
water pressure is low where we live, but enough to run fridge
fridge temperature is at 36 which is cool enough, I think you said 38 or cooler
it was literally working perfect 1 day ago, and now just nothing

there is nowhere to run the jumper wire to run the simulation on the ice maker like he talks about in one of the diagnostic videos

We bought this fridge because it was “made in america” and have already had a couple problems with it! Of course now we are out of the warranty! My husband is very handy, so we will order the part from you if we can diagnose it. It just seems like there is no water getting to the tray and none of your videos address this problem, they all talk about there being ice but not ejecting.

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! We are very thankful for your help so far!

Has Samsung or anyone come up with a retofit Kit or a fix for this problem as of yet? I have watched the Excellent video and seen the replacement of these parts (heater, defrost sensor, etc.) , and the clearing of the water drain tube. I have read that there was a class action suit for these refrigerators, but nothing on a fix for the design problem. Can you offer some guidance before I purchase the parts needed to replace as per the video and find out that this will happen again…..Also were any of the parts that I order been revised as to help solve the icing problem?

Thank you,
Mark

What is knob or dial under freezer door in kick plate for and do you adjust it? Temp controls in fridge .

I changed the duck bill drain per you video (it was stopped up) and installed the new pea trap drain with no problem yesterday. I didn’t have time to get the ice out of the bottom till today..just finished doing that..I still had water on the floor this afternoon. Could it be because I didn’t get the ice out till today or am I frozen somewhere else?? I can see a frozen trickle of ice in the back right corner of the freezer. Thought about using a hairdryer in that area but I’m not sure if I should.

We have had this fridge since 2011. About a year ago the fridge side wasn’t cooling but freezer side works fine. I finally did a lot of research and discovered that we have a dual evap fridge and decided to take matters into my own hands and open up the back of the inside fridge panel. I did find a little over frosting on the evaporator and I let it defrost. It begin working again. it would last a couple of months and do this again. More recently it started to not cool and I would just leave it alone and four days later it would start cooling again on its own. Now finally its been two weeks and has not cooled at all. I opened it up and the evaporator was somewhat frosted up and so was the drain hole. I unplugged it for 24hrs and let it defrost and made sure the drain hole was clear of ice by pouring a small amount of hot water in it. When I plugged it back in I noticed one flashing light on the temperature setting. the fifth light from the bottom to be exact, and I wasn’t able to press no other buttons. I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it went away but the fridge still won’t cool. Everything that I have tried does not work. I ordered a new heater-sheath but now I’m wondering if I need a whole new evap assembly. Please help! we are so tired of having our food in a ice chest. Thank you for any information you can give us.

I turn the washer on and it fills with water. Once filled, the dial (timer) makes a rattling sound but does not advance to agitate. If I push in the button, manually advance the dial and pull out the button, it will agitate but will not advance to the spin cycle. The agitation stops and the dial will again make a rattling sound. I manually advance the dial to the spin cycle and it will spin until the dial rattles again.

Do I need to replace the timer? Could it be something else?

followed the video byt when I got to the fuse portion, I have power on both leads,, what next?

The machine fills to desired level and light indicator switches to wash the machine makes an engaging sound and nothing happens. The light indicate stage by stage as if it’s going through the whole cycle but when its complete the clothes are still wet but not washed. Would appreciate any suggestions on where to start, Tank you.

My Bottom Freezer refrigerator stopped cooling a few weeks ago. I checked the compressor compartment and the fan is still running. The compressor relay and capacitor tested OK (resistance btwn 5-10). The compressor also checks out OK. I tested the defrost timer (turning clockwise) and that does not seem to be the problem either. I then opened up the freezer compartment and tested the temperature control thermostat. I tested resistance while it was OFF…and no reading as expected. The tested it ON and it made sound, indicating a connection…so this was also tested OK. The final test I did was to test the Defrost Thermostat. I disconnected it and placed it into a cup of ice cold water for a few minutes and tested the resistance again (Ohms). The ohmmeter should sound (resistance) when I tested it in the cold water, but no sound, and no reading, indicating an issue. I did the test numerous times and same result. Lastly, today, while the defrost thermostat was unplugged and I had the refrigerator open (ice tray disconnected, defrost thermostat disconnected), I plugged the refrigerator into the outlet and the compressor came on and it started to freeze again. My question is this, could a bad defrost timer prevent the compressor from starting, even though my freezer didn’t have a froze over problem? I searched all over the web and all advice pointed to a bad relay or temperature control thermostat. But both (all) of these tested OK. I ordered a defrost timer because I concluded it was bad anyway. I unplugged the refrigerator again and left it off. Again, what else am I missing here?

Your response is kindly appreciated.

Regards

2 days ago we noticed beverages weren’t as cold as we expected. We checked that vents weren’t blocked. We adjusted the refrigerator to a colder setting. We’ve cleaned under refrigerator and even pulled it further from the wall. The freezer is working great. I did notice this morning that the freezer is developing some frost, and the coils in the back look like they are frosting over.

NOTE: I placed two black lines on my tub and agitator to observe individual movement.

Initial observations of the Problem:

My top load washer “roared” in either the rinse/spin and completed the complete cycle. (I should have paid better attention to detail.) In the 2nd rinse the washer stopped with water in the tub. I noticed a burning smell and the motor went into thermal shutdown. As I removed the V-belt I noticed much black rubber from the belt( V-belt track was cut). The water pump pulley spun with great difficulty. When I tested the transmission via spinning the transmission pulley counter clockwise (CCW) the tub spun CCW. When I spun the transmission pulley clockwise (CW) the agitator moved CW, however I don’t know it is agitating since I’m doing this task myself.

I believe the water pump pulley bearing cause a lockup such that the V-belt burned rubber. The electric motor recovered from thermal shutdown and turned on after allowing it to cool and with the V-belt removed.

Questions:

1) If the transmission pulley is spun CW what should be seen? Should the agitator spin around the 360 degrees? Would the agitator spin “X” degrees and then restart?

2) Could there be something else wrong with the agitator if it spins and doesn’t agitate?

3) What is the best way to check thrust bearing when the pulley is all black and I don’t see the “markers” the new translucent transmission pulleys contain?

4) Is it possible to just replace the water pump bearing?

Summary:

I know the belt and water pump need fixing or replacing. Questions #1and #2 are the most important since if the transmission is smoked there is a big cost. If you can provide answers to the all questions great?

Thanks in advance,

JP

Hello

The washer will fill with water just fine but when it starts to wash sometimes it wont start the cycle and then sometimes it will quit in the cycle and it will start a buzzing noise.This will happen in the spin and drain cycles also. Some times you can unplug it from the wall and it will start back up. And sometimes I can tilt the whole machine and it will start back up.
This washer is maybe 5 years old and ever since it was new it would get off balance easily and you will have to rearrange the load. Our old one was over 35 years old Maytag and we never experience problems like this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Cliff

I don’t know what could be the problem….

maytag mgde300vfo gas dryer won’t start , it makes a sizzling sound and smells like a electrical part is burning . When I plug in back in no smell drum light comes on no lights on control panep, tried a 2 sec on off 7 times to get it to give codes but started smelling bad as soon as I tried control light did light up though. no problems with it since we bought it 7 yrs ago vents are not blocked in or out Power coard looks ok no sign of burnt wiring on motor or wiring. Belt looks good all the way around pulley and tension wheel looks good, when I turn the tub there is no resentence either way. watched your video but how do I check to see if it is control panel or motor?

I would like to know if all these refrigerators are setup to accept ice makers or do I have to drill holes?

My fridge isn’t cooling. The evaporator is only frosted on about the top 1″ of the evaporator. I’m aware that the evaporators are notorious for leaking. How do I locate the leak? Will a leak that small show up with a bubble type solution, or do I use a sniffer?
When it comes time to evacuate the system, I have manifold gauges, but they’re set up for automotive R134a. What are the correct fittings for the R12 system? It looks like 1/4″ flare, but I can’t tell for sure. In the automotive world the low and High side have different size fittings, but on the fridge they look to be the same.

Thanks,
Don

after I purchased my new home I cleaned my refrigerator and freezer out really good and I think I may have got water somewhere and potentially blew a fuse because before I cleaned it the ice dispenser and water dispenser both work finethe ice maker control light blinks twice stops for one second then repeats I’ve made sure that there was no obstruction to the optical part and still blinks twice what is the problem?

When I push the High Speed Option the washer stops but if I push the Medium Speed button than it works fine. What do you think could be the problem? Thank you

My Maytag refridgerator quit making ice. It is a French door freezer on bottom style. The water dispensor still works. Thanks to your videos I was able to take out the icemaker and found that there were some ice cubes in it. However they were small and some were almost non existent. I didn’t see any ice jams or froze up lines. We have had the fridge for a little over a year and had no problems. It did this last weekend and messed with it and got it going. But this fix lasted about 3 days. What should i look for next?
Thanks,
Wade

Need tech sheet for this model. Also does anyone know if the refrigerator evaporator has a defrost heater and where it would be?