Repair Help

My Whirlpool range is displaying a F1 error code.

My Samsung refrigerator is not making ice.

Not keeping the right temps

Hello I have a question on a Whirlpool Refrigerator. I’m noticing these issues: Not cooling in freezer section

My washer will not spin. Any suggestions?

Can you tell me what could be causing this issue on a LG Washer?

My Viking dishwasher is not working properly.

My Samsung refrigerator is warm inside.

My Whirlpool oven will not heat properly.

The tub in my lg washer is not stable.

My Electrolux refrigerator is not cooling properly.

The icemaker in my Maytag refrigerator is not working.

I have an issue with a Dryer, it’s a GE and this is the problem I am seeing: Overheating and short cycling

My Elextrolux washer stops in the middle of the cycle

Problem with a Kitchen aid Microwave

My washer will not spin out.

My GE washer will not drain the water all the way out. Do you have any suggestions to rectify this issue?

My dryer is making a loud squealing noise.

My Bosch dishwasher is not getting any water.

Can you tell me what could be causing this issue on a Fisher & Paykel Washer? It is having these problems: Will not start.

This is a commercial GE Dryer with a Factory coin-op installed. The unit goes down to the one minute mark and keeps running. Never shuts off. There was a problem years ago similar to this on some Whirlpool timers that has faulty resister on the timer. But I don’t know if the GE’s timers ever had a resister. The door switch is okay. Any ideas?

Thank you,

Jan
Barney’s Appliance
Palm Bay, FL

the washer will intermediately overfill with water.
sometimes during the Rinse cycle.
and sometimes it will work perfectly

If I hit cancel it works and will drain out the unit.
all the buttons in the heat pad work they light up if pressed.
but when I put the start button it blinks 3 times and nothing will happen

I’VE RECENTLY HAD A RUN OF THESE TYPE UNITS WITH THE SAME ISSUES. THE LED, ON THE INVERTER BOARD, IS INDICATING NORMAL STANDBY. THE TIMER MOVES THROUGH THE CYCLES BUT THE ONLY THING THAT COMES ON IS THE DRAIN PUMP. NOW AFTER LOOKING AT THE DIAGRAMS I’M NOT SURE WHAT VOLTAGE I SHOULD HAVE WHERE AND WHEN. ALL THE UNITS I’VE HAD SIMILAR ISSUES WITH ARE BELT DRIVEN. IN SOME INSTANCES I’VE HAD THE SAME BOARD OR TIMER BUT THE ISSUE DOESN’T GO AWAY. ANY THOUGHTS? I SENT IN A FOLLOW UP TO THE FIRST RESPONSE. I’VE CHECKED THE LID SWITCHES ON THESE UNITS AND REPLACED THEM, WHEN NECESSARY. SORRY FOR THE OMISSION. THE UNITS I GET ARE WHOLESALE FROM BIG BOX STORES. MAINLY RETURNS, WARRANTY ISSUES OR SWAP OUTS. OFTEN SOME OTHER TECH HAS WORKED ON THEM PREVIOUSLY AND ACCORDINGLY THEY DON’T PUT THE PAPERWORK BACK IN THE UNIT. NOW SOMETIMES I HAVE PAPERWORK FOR THEM OR SIMILAR TO GO BY OR I ASK YOU GUYS. THE SCHEMATICS I HAVE FOR SOME OF THESE UNITS DON’T SHOW WHAT VOLTAGES I SHOULD HAVE AT EACH PIN, AT THE MOTOR, RELATIVE TO WHAT CYCLE IT’S IN. SO I NEED TO FIGURE OUT WHAT VOLTAGES SHOULD BE PRESENT RELATIVE TO THE CYCLE AT THE VARIOUS MOTOR TERMINALS.

When I select a cycle and press start nothing happens. The motor led flashes 10 times.