Appliance Type: Refrigerator

Software rewrite keeps showing Up date failed, on the manual mode it doesn’t show compressor info as FLSO75LANA.

Upon arrival the freezer was 5F and the fresh food (ff) section was 60F. Both condenser and evap fans were running. The freezer section had frost and snow on the ceiling and walls near the door. Inside the ff section the diffuser was iced over and there was moderate condensation on the ceiling, side walls and around the diffuser. The diffuser is manually adjusted and was broken (customer tried to adjust while it was frozen over). Also, both doors passed the dollar bill test for tightness.

Is this caused by the board or motor.
It only does it several times a day and the rest of the time it’s ok.
The part number is WR60X1085
is there a way to check it?
IT IS A GE.

1)Customer call :refrigerator compressor wont stay on.
tech inspected the unit ,the compressor has power but quick on and about 3 second and shut off.tech decided to replace the entire compressor assembly.
Unit works for a 9 days and starts giving problem again show temperature freezer 22f and refrigerator 46 F.
unplugged it for 30 minute it works ok temperature 0 and 37
2)customer call back for the same problem after a week.
tech decided to replace the CONDENSER REPL. ASM WR84X10048 and REFRIGERATOR SUCTION TUBE CAP WR86X10021
the problem still not solve
do you have any idea what is going on ?

Snow-like frost build up on evaporator cover. Will take cover off and defrost, then two days later it is built back up again. It is not a frost pattern concurrent with the fridge being low on freon.

Replaced icemaker, still no ice. 120 volts going to the icemaker

Ice maker is making very little ice. On/off arm is moving slightly up & down and making a noise from the movement. Really irritating!

The water valves have been changed. Water pressure is good. The icemaker fill test #25 passed and the icemaker filled but will not on its own.
I noticed that the right hand refrigerator French door pops open when they shut the left hand door. Could this cause the ice room to be too warm and not make ice?
What else can cause this issue?
What else can I check?
How do I adjust the French doors to solve the problem of the door always coming ajar?
THIS IS A WHIRLPOOL REFRIGERATOR

My lg refrigerator is not cooling nor freezing. I already check the deforst heater and the ohms are correct for both the freezer and the fresh food area. I havent been able to check the defrost sensor because not sure which reading i am looking for. I also need help to check the compressor.

There is water pooled up underneath the freezer door. It is a line of water that follows the door width. There is no noticeable water inside the refrigerator compartment or the freezer. There is no noticeable frost buildup in the freezer. There is no water on the floor underneath or in the back. What could be the cause and fix of this line of water pooled up under the freezer door in the front?

The refrigerator is sweating alot of water on the ice bin and the entire assembly there is cooling but it has alot of water why is doing that what part it needs to be replaced there

both compartments are not cooling. there is no frost build up, the drain is not clogged. The compressor runs, the fans run, the coils are clean. The thermostat turns the compressor on and off. Sounds to me like the thermostat is working but I don’t know how to test it. I don’t know if the refrigerator has a control board. I think it might have a faulty thermostat or its low on refrigerant. Do you guys have training on sealed systems? I haven’t tried any repairs. I saw one of your videos with a universal temp control, do you sell those or where can I get one?

hi we check a sxs samsung refrigerator costumer complaint the seccion of vegytable is frozen all the food milk and egg costumer says somentime work normaly and somentime frozzen againg and says sometime make loud noise on back of refrigerator

Basically what refrigerator was doing was I would hear a click, loud buzz for 3 seconds, then another click. 2 minutes later, same thing…. and it would repeat this over and over.

I took the backing off the refrigerator and the compressor is really really hot to touch. At this point, the compressor is not running but the fans are still running, so it quickly heats up the air in unit.

So I thought it was the relay (thing attached to side of compressor), but here’s the thing…

I left the unit off all night… of course the compressor wasn’t warm anymore… I plugged it in and I heard the click and compressor started. It ran for over an hour straight without a problem and cooled the temperature to 0.
Then it shut off normally b/c air was at 0 degrees inside it. I felt the compressor throughout the hour and it slowly kept heating up and heating up to the point where it would probably burn if you left your hand on it…but obviously not hot enough for the heat relay (don’t know the name) to engage and shut it off.

Then about 20 minutes later, it tried to start… I heard the click, long buzz, click and then the fans started but not the compressor…

SO….. is my compressor bad b/c it’s hot to the touch or is it still my relay thingy. it looks like it’s a 2 pronged unit that plugs into the prongs on the compressor but it is SUCH a tight fit on the left side of the refrigerator it’s going to be a bear to take out of there. there is a copper tubing right in the way too.

Any help would be appreciated.

The refrigerator is 18 years old but if it’s just a relay…..I might just fix it, but if it’s the compressor, I might as well get a new refrigerator

I need the tech sheet so I can do diagnostics.
What is the most likely reason for this model to stop producing ice

My customer has a Jenn Air Refrigerator that we already have done several things to to try and stop this drawer from getting too cold.

The brand is an Electrolux/Frigidaire. I have diagnosed unit as having a bad condenser fan and fan motor. Most units i have worked on have the condenser fan and motor to the left or right of the condenser. This unit is called a Professional series. The condenser fan and motor are located behind the condenser if viewing from the rear of the unit. I am stumped as to how to remove the condenser fan and fan motor. HELP

We had a power outage last night during a thunderstorm and this morning the interior lights work, but that is the only function working. The “cubed ice” icon is blinking. The compressor is not running, nor is the condenser fan. I have my digital multimeter out and am wondering what the ranges would be for the output of the transformer which seems to supply the control board. What is more likely- a fried transformer from a power surge or fried control board from a power surge?

Eight months ago it did the same thing. Then it displayed ErFs shorted or disconnected freezer sensor . I chocked the ohms. There was some variation. I changed the sensor and it worked for 8 months.
Then it reoccured. They lost everything in the freezer but said the refrigerator section was ok. Then it worked fine for several days then both sections failed and lost All their food.
I just checked it for error codes and it showed NONE.
Is there no end to these kinds of situations?????
What do you all do in these situations. I know you must face them almost daily. You can’t just throw parts at it.
Are there any service bulletins for this. Any video’s or technical training that can help now and in the future???

What does a 39 C error code mean?