Repair Help

From what I could diagnose, I need both thermostats, but I don’t have that part number information. Do you guys?

Got this apart and found dryer sheets packed in around the blower wheel. Removed them and seems to be fine. Customer stated they did replace the lint trap but used it without one for awhile first. Would that really be the cause of all that noise?

Do you guys have a video for this? Having a really hard time with it.

I have need of the part number for the small fuse link that is on the back wire to the control. It has Two fairly large spade terminals at either end. I cannot see it listed on the schematic. Can anyone assist?

I got this apart and diagnosed it needing multiple parts. Could you send over purchase information on them so I can get a quote written up? Thanks.

Primary, secondary, and monitor switches, as well as the fuse.

Washer is leaking water from the center seal when full of water and a heavy load of clothes. I understand is the tub flexing with the heavy load and causing the leak. When this happens however the machine does not aggitate correctly. The agitater just moves back and forth a little. I don’t see how these two thing are related. With a small load it aggitates fine and does not leak. If I were to replace the seal should I be concerned there is a larger problem? Any advise would be great.

I’m almost positive this is the control board, do you guys carry that part?

I am working on a 4 door kitchenaid refrigerator that has icemaker in the celling in refrigerator side how do you get it out , dose anybody have a service manual to share whit me MOD#KFIS29PBMS02 and SER#K33307442 help is very appreciated

I think this unit will need a dispenser and cover, do you guys by chance have that lookup information available for me while I’m here?

We reset thermal fuse. A lint fire had occurred in unit and tripped it’s fuse. What else would you guys suggest doing to keep this from happening again?

Wanted to let you guys know, we’ve had a couple Bosch’s with this complaint, and there’s been nothing wrong after diagnosing. We always check wiring, controls, motor, and heater. No stored error codes, and all safety checks come back ok. Just in case you see any out there, let us know if you actually find a problem!

The water filter is completely frozen over. the unit is still under warranty but customer called us to ask what should be done in the meantime. Looks like a thermistor is being replaced if I understood the notes correctly.

Found a tripped breaker, and no other interior issues. Seemed to be in completel working order with normal operations. Should something be replaced to keep this from happening in the future? I ran three test cycles and it didn’t happen again so I was unsure of what to tell the customer of why it happened to begin with. Left and told her to monitor it and call me with any additional issues. What would you suggest?

Is this pump correct for this unit? DC31-00054A

replaced pump because of broken impeller. cannot clear suds code from electronic control

I hope someone out can help me out on a frigidaire dryer getting e-61 error code replaced main control board. Try to reset unit per instructions. Not working dryer giving me same code. Any ideas?

I will be looking at a Kenmore washer . Getting F1 error code. It looks like it may need a new main pcb. Has anyone come across this?
Thanks for any help.

Maytag Washer that will start filling with water and then go into the
Spin Cycle, before the fill cycle is complete. Any help is appreciated

GE gas dryer unit is shutting down mid cycle and not blowing the heat.

Unit won’t agitate or spin, has no fault codes entered into test service mode and can energize motor with 50 rpm.J4 .connector off. But when J4 replaced motor won’t run .Replaced MCU. Same result Machine control? Bad connections?

This microwave has a stuck or defective power selector button on the keypad but Whirlpool does not supply any parts for it other than the turntable components.
I’ve checked several sources and they all show the turntable components as the only available parts.
Unit three years old and parts obsolete!

CAN YOU PROVIDE STEP BY STEP ,LG REFRIGERATOR REMOVE THE FROUNT PANEL SO I CAN CHANGE THE DISPENSER SPRING,DOOR CHUTE,

I have a GE Fridge MN:PFFSS6PKWBSS, SN: AR075158. The IM produces a few batches of ice per day. The IM cycles when I hold down the cycle button for 10 seconds and it fills with water. The duct seems to have good airflow to the compartment and the sensor mounted in the back checks out fine. Any ideas?

Dacor Wall oven. Upper oven would no heat, lower oven working fine.
Double oven electric. Upper oven would not heat. no power to the element. visual inspection on PCB relay shows the the relay is burnt. put in new board and now “F4” fault shows for both top and bottom ovens. Put in old board and F4 still shows for both ovens.
Trying to avoid having to remove the oven. No wiring diagram. It appears that the oven sensor (upper oven) was replaced some time ago (because of the wire nuts). What is throwing me is that the bottom was working and the only thing that changed was the board and when I returned it to its original state – the bottom is not working.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

I have a Samsung refrigerator. This is a French door unit.
The back panel in the fresh food compartment was solid ice the evaporator fan blade was frozen half way up.
I pulled the plug defrosted the back took it out. Replaced the evaporator fan. Plugged it back in the display, located inside at top showed 88 on the freezer side of control and the fresh food side of control. The evaporator fan was not running. I did have both doors open about 3 hours and ran a steamer inside to defrost the back panel.
The settings will not respond at all and the fan is not running. Is there something I need to reset? Thanks In advance

I have a Kitchen Aid wall oven, electric heat. Model # KEBS107DAL4 – gives fault code:
F3 – E2 ( Oven too hot Replace oven temperature sensor)
This fault code only when self-cleaning. Bake and Broil works fine.
Wouldn’t the sensor fail for baking as well? Thanks in advance for any help.

I have a Samsung Refrigerator Model: RS2555SL/Xaa
Needs a new refrigerator defrost heater. When I look it up I see you have to purchase the whole evaporator to get the defrost heater (not sold separately)
Are you guys separating the defrost heater from the evaporator when it comes in and then replacing it out with the old one, or are you replacing the entire evaporator for just a simple defrost heater? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Timer on dryer was not advancing. Changed timer and it also is not advancing. What could be the cause of this. Thanks for your comments.