Repair Help

Freezer is not cold enough to keep frozen, FF side is fine on temp keeping food cool. I can hear the compressor click to try and come on but it doesn’t continue to run. What can cause this?

The dryer powers on but doesn’t start. Pressing the start button gives 3 beeps almost like the door isn’t closed. I put the dryer into test mode and all I get is error code EHd, this doesn’t appear in any diagnostics codes anywhere. The control panel appears to be responsive. None of the error code sheets show this error code.

There was a large amount of lint being blown out the back of the dryer and I cleaned out the outlet. I’m about to take apart the bulkhead to get to the blower and vacuum that out too.

I have no lights on display and no power to control board.

have foloower instructions to get into service mode. it mentions: delay wash and extra rinse button. see neither. have rinse with extra rinse option ?

HI,
How do i get the front panel off of this dryer?

Thank you,

Mike

Replaced main control board because it wasn’t sending 120 to compressor and it started working then had redo because stopped cooling for a day again and went up to 60f for a day. When new board finally sends voltage to compressor it clicks like 4-5 times revvs up several times without holding a constant run then on fourth try compressor seemed to start running good. I’m thinking maybe temperate sensors not telling the board to send voltage but why would the compressor seem to struggle to run? I’m thinking replace sensors and compressor. I ran through diagnostic everything on the board seemed to test good.

the water valve is in the fresh food compartment. how to replace it.

The centagrade temps are L 6.7/14.5. Which of these is the cut in and which is the cut out temperature?

I tried to adjust the temp of my wine cellar (wine fridge) to mo availe to come to relize after checking in the back of it that the compressor was so hot I could barely touch it. Can you help me resolve my issue? Thx

I’m unable to locate a service manual for this box. I have the tech sheet.
Schematic shows isolation valve and diodes just before it. I can’t locate the isolation valve or diodes? I’ve seen video elsewhere and it shows to be in the compressor compartment. Nope. Not there. Can’t stick my head in that compressor compartment any further than I have.
Tech sheet gives no clues as to algorithm, air flow and limited sensor temp resistance values.
A service manual or one equivalent and I’ll sing this sites praises!
Any video you guys may have as well would be great.
Thanks

I took in this refrig to my shop. Compressor had been changed and freon had leaked out. I repaired leak at the high side joint. evacuated and repl drier and recharged with freon to running suction pressure about 5 lbs. Refrig runs good but doesn’t cool one bit. What is going on here. pressures equalize well. I don’t have a charging cylinder to charge by the oz. i cannot understand why no cooling of evaporator at all.

I ran the dishwasher to see what happens. It fills up, sits quietly then empties. I positioned the sprayer arm at 6:00 between filling and empty. It doesn’t move.

Why do the LEDs chase as in a race? The customer said the clothes weren’t drying after two forty minute cycles. The vent is not connected. It does heat.

Hello, I just replaced the defective touch panel. I need to know how to clear the error code on this model. Maytag dishwasher MDB4949SDZ. Thank you, Shawn

It’s saying stuck key.
I changed the kaypad and I still got the same error.
I changed the control board and I am still getting the same error.
Please advise

Third time I have seen These ranges with this issue they seem to have the same system the old wolf rangEs had like a fireplace or furnace where you hold ignition down until it’s lit. Costumer saying it hasn’t been lighting lately so I’m going to assume it’s that ignition switch?

Hello,
We are trying to diagnose a Kitchenaid refrigerator wherein the fresh food appears to be holding temperature, but the freezer is warm. The evaporator has no frost on it at all.
We opened up the control board section and noticed that there were four boards, thinking that perhaps the one that controls the freezer had burned out. We did not see any visual signs of failure, and were honestly not sure which board would be the correct one.
We are at a loss as to where to start to diagnose this unit – any advice is appreciated!

It seems that air flow is not the problem

This machine keeps bleaching clothes. Doesn’t matter what cycle it is on. I’ve ran a test cycle and everything seems normal. Started doing this after the customer dropped the dispenser drawer and broke it. Thought that was the problem so I installed a new dispenser drawer assembly. Still has the same problem.

Six-year-old washer has been loud for several months and periodic problems with spin cycles. Diagnostic codes F7 E1 and F7 E5.
Inspecting the clutch, it looked fine (no wear) but I noticed a lot of brown powdery residue on inside of clutch. (I remember a few years back finding a small puddle of rusty brown water (not oily) and a splatter spray from the liquid dripping onto the belt. The operation of the machine seemed fine and I never noticed the leak again.) I was going to try replacing the tub seal and actuator, and probably the lower harns-wire. But when pulling the transmission, I see that the entire inside is coated with this brown residue. I’ve been told there are no bearings from which oil might leak.
Is my transmission compromised?

Before sending this question to you, I paid for your video “Maytag gearbox repair and diagnosis” hoping to get a better understanding of how the transmission works. I was very disappointed to see that it was merely how to replace the transmission–something that is available for free on several appliance parts sites. I request that my $7.99 “rental” be credited back to my credit card.

Thank you.

I have this midea washer/dryer all in one combo unit that seems to work ok but just
not drying the clothes.