Repair Help

My washer is shaking and seems to be off balance.

My whirlpool washer is making grinding noises and also displays error codes.

My whirlpool washer is not draining water properly.

My Whirlpool washer is leaking water from the bottom.

The lid on my washer is scratched up. I am looking for some advice on how to replace it.

My whirlpool washer is not getting any water.

I cannot open the lid of my washer.

My Whirlpool washer is not filling with water.

My washer will not power on or do anything.

My washer is giving me error codes and I do not know what they mean.

How to diagnose 3 way valve. No frost is going to fresh food evaporator. Freezer is normal and freezing.

Yesterday my refrigerator completely quit working. The internal display was off, as well as the external. Only the internal lights worked. I reset the circuit breaker to see if the refrigerator would reset. Nothing. This morning the refrigerator is working – all display work and it is cooling and making ice. Why did it do this and how do I trouble shoot or repair?

My dishwasher was leaving dishes filthy and my silverware stained. I disassembled the dw to find the source (turns out it was a horrible p-trap plumbing job, corroded disposal, backup, etc.
Unfortunately, I violated my own rule of appliance repair, which is to photograph every step in the disassembly. When I went to reassemble, I followed the parts diagrams, only to discover GE either poorly represented the positioning of the parts or it completely omitted key parts. I then rented your video on installing the flood switch, but that did not describe what screw I was supposed to be using.

I’ve narrowed it down to (I hope) one or both of the following problems:
1. The screw holding the flood switch housing in place: what is it? (part number/size?) (GE has no reference at all to this screw in the parts diagrams). I wonder if I might be using the wrong screw? I don’t have extra screws and I believe every screw is in the right place. Maybe it’s too loose? How tight is it supposed to be?
2. The float stem O-ring. I cannot tell from the diagram where this o-ring is supposed to go. Right now, it is on the float stem, at the narrow part that inserts into the base of the sump manifold. I think it’s doing what it’s supposed to do, (with the exception of the leaky screw below it), but I’m unsure, because I can’t rule out that’s it’s positioned improperly without fixing the leaky screw.
3. Oh, yeah, well, there’s this too: when I was removing the electrical circuit board to replace the electrical cord, I broke off the little white tab on the connector clip for the Flood switch harness assembly. When I reassembled it, the board, I googled a lot of “electrical connector clips for circuit board,” etc. with no luck. Right now it’s taped into its proper place in the board, but wonder if that might not be helping things…

I appreciate your help!

THIS IS A GE WASHER STACK WITH THE DRYER
The washer will only fill and drain.
I tried to enter the service mode according to the tech sheet and it would not allow me. Seemed simple enough. I set the selector dial at 1 o’clock held the start and deep rinse ( is that button the FS the tech sheet is talking about?)
Then hold them for 3 seconds, then turn the dial to position 6 while holding the start and deep rinse 3 more seconds then release and NOTHING!
Am I doing something wrong?
Any suggestions
I’d like to see a service video on this one!!!

PLEASE send me all you can get on this one.

I need a tech sheet/diagram for this. Unit has no display, only thing working is top burners.

I need a tech sheet and service manual. There is no power to the pump.

GE Monogram. Three of the four burners on the left are leaking gas. I cannot find the exact leak. I saw a couple of your videos, one in particular said the leak can come from the burner tube assembly. Although I have not come across this it seems possible. Is there a known issue with this monogram leaking gas? Its strange to me that so many burners are lighting up the leak detector. Do you suggest replacing the gas valves first.

I have replaced the display panel already and the problem is persisting.
The digital user interface is inoperable. The light and temperature setting cannot be adjusted, also cannot dispense water or ice. Have replaced user interface and it worked for a week and then did the same thing and stopped working. If you unplug the refrigerator and plug it back in it works for 5 minutes then stops being responsive. The temperature is fine in the refrigerator and freezer. Would this be the main control board for the unit?

We replaced a compressor in the refrigerator that wasn’t cooling at all. The freezer now is getting to -10 but the refrigerator wont get below 45. We replaced the evap fan motor, control board, and both dampers. checked all vents to look for obstructions found nothing. There seems to be no airflow into the refer from the freezer once the freezer door is closed but once it opens then it seems like it gets a lot more airflow. Is there any common airflow issue or any solution we haven’t addressed yet? Please advise

I bought a brand new in the box dishwasher that was 2 years old. I plugged it in and it didn’t clean very well. I tried all of the cycles and still not clean well. I checked the water input to the water inlet valve and it was strong. I then pulled the hose from the water inlet valve to the inlet assembly and it seemed strong. I did notice that when I run a cycle the arms never move. There does seem to be water in the dishwasher and it drains just fine. I tried adding a couple of quarts of water to the bottom of the dishwasher to see if not enough water and still the arms didn’t seem to spin. I bought your video on diagnostic modes and when I run it I received the following codes before the test happens. If it were new from the store I could ask whirlpool but since I bought it second hand, even if it was new in box, I can’t,

F4 E3
F4 E3
F6 E4
F- E-
F- E-

The icemaker is not making ice. I have entered diagnostics mode and run test 99 and it successfully ejects ice from the tray and refills it but it does not do this on its own. When running test 00 (read codes) I also get an error 5 (Deli Pan Thermistor Invalid) and error 10 (FZ Icemaker Mold Body Thermistor (MB) Invalid) instantly after clearing the codes and rebooting (one instance zero days ago). I do not have a separate deli tray so that may be bug in the diagnostics software. When I run test 36 to check the temperature of the Icemaker Mold Body it says 31-32 degrees but the manuals state that this temperature must be below 15 or 16 degrees for it to initiate an ice making cycle. Do I need to replace the Mold Body thermistor?

My WF448AAW/XAA clothes washer first showed a problem when trying to start a wash cycle. The washer display would indicate the selected cycle and wash time but would not add water. After turning off/on a couple times The cycle added water but would stop at the first drain cycle and give an error indicating it wasn’t draining. I unplugged for approx 1 minute the tried again. Did that twice but got same result. Because of the erratic response My gut was telling the PCB was not working properly. I downloaded a service manual to troubleshoot and it pointed to the drain pump.
I found your site and a great video on replacing the drain pump so I ordered and replaced the pump. Still not working. The first attempt after replacing pump showed a drain error again. Please advise on “hidden codes” or other direction to effectively troubleshoot and correct this problem. I don’t want to got to the expense of replacing the PCB if it’s just a sensor issue.
I have an industrial instrumentation background so have experience with advanced troubleshooting.

Software rewrite keeps showing Up date failed, on the manual mode it doesn’t show compressor info as FLSO75LANA.