Repair Help

I have a Maytag 4000 Series Washer model# MHWE450WW01. This started about 2 weeks ago. I had an F71 error code. When I hit the power button I’d just get 3 beeps, no display. Found a Youtube video from an appliance tech who said F71 was a motor control board. Replaced the motor control board and everything seems fine until I ran a whole cycle and had wet clothes at the end. Everything seems fine except I get no high speed spin. Thought I might have got a bad board so I contacted partsimple.com and they sent me another board. That didn’t change a thing except to confirm the board was ok. I then replaced the control board. That didn’t change anything.

Here’s where I’m at now: In diagnostics it will spin at full speed with the C08 diagnostic test which tells me I don’t have a mechanical problem like a slipping belt, motor etc. During a normal wash cycle it will not spin at high speed with or without clothes in it. The door locks fine, door lock indicator is lit and door won’t open. It fills to the normal level and drains fine. Spin light comes on but the drum rotates at wash speed. It acts like a load balance problem. The drum rotates one way, stops, rotates the other, then the drain pump comes on and it tries to spin but then stops again, rotates one way then the other like it’s trying to balance the load. I can’t locate the balance sensor (if there is one). Any help would be appreciated.

Just looking for any service pointers ,, videos ,, wiring diagrams and diagnostics for this icemaker ..

GOOD MORNING. THE CUSTOMER PURCHASED A NEW ICE MAKER. I DO HAVE 110 VOLTS AT THE MOLEX TO THE ICE MAKER. I INSTALLED THE NEW ICE MAKER AND JUMPED FROM L TO V AND T TO H WITH NO RESPONSE. I TESTED BETWEEN ALL TEST PORTS AND COULD NOT GET ANY VOLTAGE READING. I THEN INSTALLED THE OLD ICE MAKER AND JUMPED THE L TO V AND T TO H WITH NO RESPONSE. THEN I TESTED ACROSS THE L AND N AND GOT 110 VOLTS. PULLED THE MOLEX FROM THE ICE WATER INLET VALVE AND GOT 75 VOLTS WHEN JUMPED FROM L TO V. THESE TESTS WERE PERFORMED WITH THE FLAP AND DOOR SWITCH MADE. WHEN FREEZER DOOR IS OPEN LIGHT IS BLINK BLINK PAUSE. WHEN I CLOSED THE FLAP IT REMAINED BLINK BLINK PAUSE. NEVER BLOCKED OPTIC EYE WITH MY HAND. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. THANKS, TODD FROM NY.

f3 e2 error when you use the micro I replaced the erc because there was no display now I get this code and I already checked sensor I was thinking about installing another erc

What would make one of the hot surface lights on the stove top stay on even the the burner isn’t hot?

Customer said that ” Feezer works fine. Its cold in there but the refrigerator is warm. ” I have handled this symptom before on other manufacturers but dont want to assume same cause. Usually frost build up in evaporator coils in freezer section which constricts airflow to fridge section. Should I test defrost heater before testing defrost thermostat or defrost control ?

Kenmore fridge

Model Number
106.57036601
What have you tried so far?
Customer said that ” Feezer works fine. Its cold in there but the refrigerator is warm. ” I have handled this symptom before on other manufacturers but dont want to assume same cause. Usually frost build up in evaporator coils in freezer section which constricts airflow to fridge section. Should I test defrost heater before testing defrost thermostat or defrost control ?

Refrigerator Kenmore
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semperfi asked 3 days ago
Answers (1)
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Hello
You need to check first if their is a heavy even frost build up on the coil. Then next do a continuity test on the heater. If the heater has continuity, then check the defrost thermostat. If the heater and therm. are good then replace the adaptive defrost control.
Information Links
106.57036601 Manual Sears refrigerator | Adaptive Defrost control | 4388932 Defrost control video

I watched your video regarding washer not draining. It shows instructions on how to remove the drum, however the drum I am trying to remove is stuck, Ive tried what your video says and im not sure if I missed anything because no matter what I do, it will not budge. Any suggestions

The ice maker door was clicking. I put a new HV circuit board in the back of the fridge and that stopped the ice maker noise. Now the front panel is flashing PE0000. The compressor sounds like it is always running. The front will let me dispense water, but nothing else. It will not respond to any button trying to reprogram it. I tried the Door alarm button and held it for a while and nothing. tried the Water button and held it for a while and nothing. When I push the + Or – on the refrigerator side the display will show ICE or H20 in the display. but nothing else will respond.

To whom it may concern,
I have a whirlpool WRF757SDEM refrigerator that recently has a loud noise coming that appears to be coming from the top section. Last year I replaced the evaporator fan and thermostat as the unit has frozen up and stopped cooling. After that fan was replaced the unit was very quit and running normally.
Recently ( past 3 days) it has gotten very loud at times with a slight vibration. At times, the sound is very loud, but then it gets quieter; almost to normal levels.
The top unit is cold and maintains temperature, there isn’t any issue making ice and everything is cold and frozen in the freezer.
I am wondering if its an issue with the evaporator fan and if that needs to be replaced again.
Any and all assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Kindest regards,
Kris

I am getting a 6C3 error code on my dishwasher. Also it will not do anything.

I have a customer that wants me to convert his LG dryer to LP. It is an LG model # DLG3171. I typed this number into your model # guide, with no results. I checked PartsPro website and that number came up. So I know that it is a good number. Do you have a video for this model # or something close to it showing how to take it apart? And 2, how long should a job like this take?
Thank you
Bob

Whenever unit is set to self clean winth 90 minutes it shuts down with an F9 error message according to customer have replaced control and checked for proper operation of door latch assembly all other functions work properly what could be the issue?

Evaporator and condenser fan motors running compressor running outer loop in front of door hot off and on open door light does not come on press button on control and light comes on but than goes out I suspect board is bad need video on how to replace the board and to know if I should check anything else compressor has a inverter board and when I open door switch what should my switch read when I check for continuity I do want to replace board without first being able to access the control and check board out I dont believe this has a main control board in the back correct me if am wrong

Not heating, blinking complete cycle not staying solid

Gas dryer igniter will glow for about 8-10 seconds the click and will not light. Could not find anywhere what the resistance should be on the igniter. Any suggestions on what else could cause this?

Hi,
I am troubleshooting a no LED light issue on this unit, All the LEDs work except the 5 on the roof of the refrigerator. The schematic shows that the 5 fridge roof LED’s are divided into 2 series circuits, 3 in one series and 2 in the other going back to the LED Driver board for the DC source. Both of these strings are not working, I have diagnosed that the LED Driver board is partially defective .

The problem is, it is not shown in any service literature, ANYWHERE. The visual shows it is located next to the control board along with the power supply, The only part shown in the exploded diagram is the Control board itself, Whirlpool W11161172. If you do a parts list search for LED Driver, it does not generate any hits. I am at a loss, I have check multiple sources including the Factory SM with no luck.

I need the part number for the LED Driver Board! Why is it not shown or listed anywhere? I wasted 2 hours looking!!!

Thanks 🙂
Tom
609 418 0278

I put an icemaker in this Samsung frig I can manually cycle the icemaker but it won’t cycle by itself

The code is no or long fill. The water is coming in ok. The machine will fill about half way up window then it will show code 4e then pump out and start to fill again. And just keeps doing that. I am at standstill. Help. Thank you.

Parker &Fisher, not spinning motor getting hot? Is there a way to know transmission is bad? How do you put this machine in diagnostic mode?

You can start the dryer again it will just shut off completely. What do you think this could be?

Do you have a video on how you replace the bake element on this double oven. I also like to know if you have a diagnosis sheet or cheat sheet that I can put the unit into diagnostic mode? I don’t have anything on this oven except a schematic. Takes a long time to get to preset temperature 30 min.

Look like the de-icing circuit isn’t working. Does this refrigerator have a thermostat on the evaporator? Is there a video on how to replace the Jazz board or you call the controller? I have had two refrigerators that have a problem with de-icing. This refrigerator is having alot of problems with the boards, not going into defrost. I also have problems with the drain. Also how do you get the freezer drawer out of the refrigerator? so I can de-ice the evaporator, any video’s on this?

I just used my dryer yesterday and it worked fine, but today I went to get the load out and it was still damp. Doesn’t seem to be blowing any hot air out. What do you think the problem could be?