Repair Help

My WF448AAW/XAA clothes washer first showed a problem when trying to start a wash cycle. The washer display would indicate the selected cycle and wash time but would not add water. After turning off/on a couple times The cycle added water but would stop at the first drain cycle and give an error indicating it wasn’t draining. I unplugged for approx 1 minute the tried again. Did that twice but got same result. Because of the erratic response My gut was telling the PCB was not working properly. I downloaded a service manual to troubleshoot and it pointed to the drain pump.
I found your site and a great video on replacing the drain pump so I ordered and replaced the pump. Still not working. The first attempt after replacing pump showed a drain error again. Please advise on “hidden codes” or other direction to effectively troubleshoot and correct this problem. I don’t want to got to the expense of replacing the PCB if it’s just a sensor issue.
I have an industrial instrumentation background so have experience with advanced troubleshooting.

Software rewrite keeps showing Up date failed, on the manual mode it doesn’t show compressor info as FLSO75LANA.

Upon arrival the freezer was 5F and the fresh food (ff) section was 60F. Both condenser and evap fans were running. The freezer section had frost and snow on the ceiling and walls near the door. Inside the ff section the diffuser was iced over and there was moderate condensation on the ceiling, side walls and around the diffuser. The diffuser is manually adjusted and was broken (customer tried to adjust while it was frozen over). Also, both doors passed the dollar bill test for tightness.

where on the motor does the hall sensor get mounted

Is this caused by the board or motor.
It only does it several times a day and the rest of the time it’s ok.
The part number is WR60X1085
is there a way to check it?
IT IS A GE.

1)Customer call :refrigerator compressor wont stay on.
tech inspected the unit ,the compressor has power but quick on and about 3 second and shut off.tech decided to replace the entire compressor assembly.
Unit works for a 9 days and starts giving problem again show temperature freezer 22f and refrigerator 46 F.
unplugged it for 30 minute it works ok temperature 0 and 37
2)customer call back for the same problem after a week.
tech decided to replace the CONDENSER REPL. ASM WR84X10048 and REFRIGERATOR SUCTION TUBE CAP WR86X10021
the problem still not solve
do you have any idea what is going on ?

Snow-like frost build up on evaporator cover. Will take cover off and defrost, then two days later it is built back up again. It is not a frost pattern concurrent with the fridge being low on freon.

Replaced icemaker, still no ice. 120 volts going to the icemaker

Ice maker is making very little ice. On/off arm is moving slightly up & down and making a noise from the movement. Really irritating!

The water valves have been changed. Water pressure is good. The icemaker fill test #25 passed and the icemaker filled but will not on its own.
I noticed that the right hand refrigerator French door pops open when they shut the left hand door. Could this cause the ice room to be too warm and not make ice?
What else can cause this issue?
What else can I check?
How do I adjust the French doors to solve the problem of the door always coming ajar?
THIS IS A WHIRLPOOL REFRIGERATOR

My lg refrigerator is not cooling nor freezing. I already check the deforst heater and the ohms are correct for both the freezer and the fresh food area. I havent been able to check the defrost sensor because not sure which reading i am looking for. I also need help to check the compressor.

There is water pooled up underneath the freezer door. It is a line of water that follows the door width. There is no noticeable water inside the refrigerator compartment or the freezer. There is no noticeable frost buildup in the freezer. There is no water on the floor underneath or in the back. What could be the cause and fix of this line of water pooled up under the freezer door in the front?

The spark ignitor clicks and the bake burner comes on but the spark ignitor continues to spark for about 20 seconds
then the burner and spark ignitor stops. Then it retires every 1 to 2 minutes

What is the issue here?
In the diagnostic mode it showed F6E0.
This is a communication problem.
I tested the harness between the interface and the control. It was good.
I unplugged the unit and cleared the code but the BAKE still does the same thing.
In your experience what is causing this?
The ground is hooked up.

The refrigerator is sweating alot of water on the ice bin and the entire assembly there is cooling but it has alot of water why is doing that what part it needs to be replaced there

both compartments are not cooling. there is no frost build up, the drain is not clogged. The compressor runs, the fans run, the coils are clean. The thermostat turns the compressor on and off. Sounds to me like the thermostat is working but I don’t know how to test it. I don’t know if the refrigerator has a control board. I think it might have a faulty thermostat or its low on refrigerant. Do you guys have training on sealed systems? I haven’t tried any repairs. I saw one of your videos with a universal temp control, do you sell those or where can I get one?

The dishwasher stopped cleaning. I determined it was not filling with water. I found the screen on the inlet valve was plugged. I removed it and cleaned it out. It now fills with water but when it gets to what would be the wash cycle it just sits for a few minutes and then goes to the drain cycle. I have unhooked the power to reset it and still has the same problem. I also added more water to it to make sure it wasn’t a water level issue and it still will not go to the wash cycle.

Hello, the dishwasher is leaking during cycle on the bottom left side of door, there is a small black plastic flap? About 6 inches in length is the location where it drips from.
I don’t know if the leak is relative, but my dishes aren’t drying either, there is still water on dishes and such after the “Quick and Dry” cycle has completed???

The display is blank and won’t respond to commands
Voltage is good.

hi we check a sxs samsung refrigerator costumer complaint the seccion of vegytable is frozen all the food milk and egg costumer says somentime work normaly and somentime frozzen againg and says sometime make loud noise on back of refrigerator

Basically what refrigerator was doing was I would hear a click, loud buzz for 3 seconds, then another click. 2 minutes later, same thing…. and it would repeat this over and over.

I took the backing off the refrigerator and the compressor is really really hot to touch. At this point, the compressor is not running but the fans are still running, so it quickly heats up the air in unit.

So I thought it was the relay (thing attached to side of compressor), but here’s the thing…

I left the unit off all night… of course the compressor wasn’t warm anymore… I plugged it in and I heard the click and compressor started. It ran for over an hour straight without a problem and cooled the temperature to 0.
Then it shut off normally b/c air was at 0 degrees inside it. I felt the compressor throughout the hour and it slowly kept heating up and heating up to the point where it would probably burn if you left your hand on it…but obviously not hot enough for the heat relay (don’t know the name) to engage and shut it off.

Then about 20 minutes later, it tried to start… I heard the click, long buzz, click and then the fans started but not the compressor…

SO….. is my compressor bad b/c it’s hot to the touch or is it still my relay thingy. it looks like it’s a 2 pronged unit that plugs into the prongs on the compressor but it is SUCH a tight fit on the left side of the refrigerator it’s going to be a bear to take out of there. there is a copper tubing right in the way too.

Any help would be appreciated.

The refrigerator is 18 years old but if it’s just a relay…..I might just fix it, but if it’s the compressor, I might as well get a new refrigerator

Unit has no power. What do I look for and if it is the timer how do I test the timer.