Repair Help

So I have this LG French door refrigerator. After a filter change it stopped getting cold enough to freeze and the refrigerator isn’t getting as cold as it’s set to. The freezer is getting to 48 degrees, the refrigerator is getting to pretty much the same, so something is working.

Take the lower cover off and clean up the coils and fan. I bumped the drain tube and it started spewing water out of the top. Let it finish draining, took the tube off and found a glob of something in there, so it was likely blocked (it was building up ice on the inside of the freezer that would have to be cleaned out from time to time). Hoped that would be the extent of things. Ran for about a day with no change.

Took the electronics cover off, the boards looked good as in no burnt stuff, fuses intact. Ran the first stage of the diagnostics and the display lit up everything. Fan running, I believe the compressor was running. Hard to tell with these linear condensers. It had a slight vibration to it. Second stage of the diagnostics, gave a 22 code on the front. Went to stage 3, fan and I’m guessing the compressor shut off like it was supposed to. Great. Reset everything and it comes back to life, fan running and slight vibration to the compressor. I will note the compressor did get warmer and i could feel a bit of cold in the copper.

After looking up the code and doing some research I’m thinking ok this is cake. So I take the lower panel back off and go to look at what I’m dealing with before I buy parts. well this model does NOT have a compressor relay. It’s got a compressor wire harness. @#%$@@%#$%^%

How do I fix an error 22 on this? or is the compressor junk?

I replaced my control board 3 weeks ago, due to the buttons acting wonky like switching to CLEAN from WASH when pushing start or changing spin speed when changing the temp. After replacing, the buttons worked great, but the washer would run a cycle. It would fill some water, then the tumbler would swing one way a little bit and then the other way a little bit. Then it would stop and unlock. If you hit start again, it would start the process again and stop again. I ordered it off Ebay and thought maybe the new board was defective, so I removed and installed the old one again. Buttons still wonky, but once they stayed on WASH, the washer actually ran the complete cycle. Returned that board and ordered another one from a different source and installed it yesterday. Same result as the 1st time. I need to know why the old one will run a cycle, but the new one stops. I was able to pull a E39 code from the new board. Once again, since I had clothes that needed to be cleaned, I reinstalled the old one just so I could wash a load of clothes. I still have the new board here though. Just doesn’t make any sense to me!! Please help! The control board that I have is WH12X10468.

The washer will try to shift to agitate but seems to get stuck.
It will not let me enter diagnostics so I can check the error code. What is the trick?
Is this the actuator or the motor?
Does this motor have a built in clutch or can it be charged? This is a Frigidaire

Samsung French Door Unit:
M# RFG297HDRS
S# 176843AD800130P

Have 14 vdc at user interface

I have a Family Hub 5 Software update window on my Hub. I am unable to scroll through the message and I am unable to click the Ok or Cancel buttons. I have tried powering off the hub and killing power to the fridge and after each reboot the screen comes back and I can not do anything with it.

I have a screen shot if that would help.

Can I get instructions on how to get into diagnostic mode?
Is there a way to roll back the update process?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

The customer showed me a video that sounded like the pump running with the door open. She said that it shows an error code often of 10 and last time it showed 30.
Where is the tech sheet hidden? I couldn’t find it behind the door panel or behind the toe plate.
I need a copy of it and the error codes and videos.

No Cool. Both the refrigerator and freezer. I have heard the compressor kick on. no error codes, temp on door says what it should be, not what it is.

what else do I need to trouble shoot?

I have a great deal of difficulty removing stripped out baked in screws. With bbq’s we always use hand tools and rarely use machine screw drivers. I cannot get 90% of the screws out if they are located on the collector box inside the fire pit. I need to know. how to get them out. I have tried everything including vice grips and rubber glove technique and soaking with WD 40. In many cases there is not even enough room to get a vice grip in there. Should I just get a small angle grinder and cut these screws out? Is that a normal pracitice? Please help. Thanks

Peter Cooke
Sparkle Grill of Long Island
grillhampton.com

YOU CAN HEAR THE FROST HITTING THE FAN BLADE DO YOU HAVE A SERVICE MANUAL OR HOW DO I PUT IT INTO TEST MODE
IM A FACTORY TECH BUT NOT FOR WHIRLPOOL SO IF I HAD THE NEEDED SERVICE INFORMATION THAT WOULD BE GREAT

Customer gave no details of when the dishwasher gives the code, only that it reads the code: nE.

Do I need to pull the fridge out in order to replace the heat exchanger or can I pull it out of the channel and snake the new one in? The heat exchanger is inside a channel. I don’t really want to pull out the fridge if I don’t have to. It’s pretty big and bulky and will need realigning to align it with the freezer on the left. Also, how do I remove the trim piece in between the freezer and the refrigerator if I need to pull out the fridge? Any materials or documents that can help will be much appreciated. Thank you.

It will take as long as 4 to 5 minutes to come back on when (on the dual burner position) you go from low to high.

Is there an adjustment that can be made or is this a problem with the board? Which one?

Can you offer any advice? How do I test this kind of burner regulating system?